About 3 years ago I had the same issue, I had the plate replaced now with 3years and around 6000 miles in the plate I have the same issue. How long does the transmission plate last? Could it be something else. I love the crossfire I’ve owned it for 9 years and I am constantly repairing it.
Any ideas on how to fix this problem.
thanks in advance.

 

2000 miles a year? What condition is the battery in?
How old is the battery?

 

2 years old

 

The best way out of limp mode might be to throw a blue pill in the tank

Sorry, I just couldn’t help myself

 

Have you checked the fluid?

 

I changed out my battery the voltage at cold start was lower than 12.4 it was at 11.9-11.5 it was a 3 years old so I bought a new one and no more issues.
This forum is the best thanks for the suggestion.

 

Thanks for getting back to the forum! Hopefully this will temper the doubt that the battery is good (checked) and written off as a potential cause. I see far too many other posts where this was the MOST LIKELY issue but for some reason never reported back to the membership. Happy cruising!


.

 

My crossfire ran fine for a couple months, I was driving on the highway when my car when it went into limp mode again. I coasted off the highway stopped and the car would not go forward, I turned it off and back on and it went to 2 gear, I crawled back home where it sat for a few days. I started it up and it drove normal, I have no idea what to do next , conductor plate was changed out a couple years ago with only 15000 miles on it.
any advise would be appreciated

 

Have you checked for codes?

 

The probable cause is a faulty solenoid.
I had a similar problem in a Chrysler 300 which used the same basic transmission, it would be fine, then go into limp mode, get fine again until it failed 100% of the time.
A new solenoid in the electrical plate fixed the problem. It will not fix itself.

 

You have to get into the Mercedes transmission codes. An inexpensive OBD II scanner will not work. Scan the car as a Mercedes 2003 SLK 32 if your car is an SRT6, or an 2003 SLK320 if you drive a Limited. A proper scan will tell you which solenoid is bad or where your problem originates. Guessing is expensive. Generally if you are a DIY guy the scan tool pays for itself the first time you use it. You can use the search box in the upper right corner of the forum to find suggestions as to which scanner to purchase. Many are under $200; or go to an independent owned garage that specializes in European automobiles and let them scan the car as a Mercedes and then write the codes down; don't go for just the simple explanation. Get the exact numbered code.