So I tried standing away from the car and still had no luck at all but did relize the I have no interior lights. So looks like I better start looking for blown fuses.

So that was a waste of time all fuses are good.. Any ideas ?

 

I suspect that water in the passenger trunk well may have gotten into your module. You have to take out the foam blocks in the trunk to see, but it is a job because you have to take out some interior panels too. Another way to check would be to slide under the rear of the car and locate the rubber plugs in the bottom of each well. Pry them out and be prepared with a bowl to catch the water (so you will know how much you have pooled in the wells) If you find any water, fix the leaks and dry out your parts as described above.

You could even have a bad headlight switch. All these parts network, so the fault could be in an unlikely place.

 

Where are those "rubber plugs on the bottom of the trunkwells" located so I can check if there is any water in the trunk from underneath the car?

 

The plugs are covered with undercoating, but if memory serves me they are still evident if you look from underneath. You will have to raise the car to get a good look.

Look at the lowest point of the well, and poke around firmly any likely protrusions using a flat screw driver until you catch an edge that gives. It is made of rubber.

 

Help! low beams point downward

 

Are the bulbs in place correctly? The bulb tabs should point down in the low beams.

 

yes, tabs are at the bottom.

 

That's good but they have to be precisely in the pocket, many have said they are but they in fact we're not.

 

My rear brake lights stopped working and/or I get a burnt bulb almost every time I drive it. Could this be the culprit?

 

Have you looked at the bulb socket for any evidence of scorching , like improper contact?

 

Both stopped working. I will look.

 

Its blowing both brake light bulbs at the same time, an not a fuse?

 

Lol it probably is... excuse my idiocy.

 

how much does it cost to replace the pump?

 

can anyone provide the type or brand of the silicone used here?

 

[QUOTE=fastfunfor2;491510]Finally some pictures.

Since the dealership took apart the interior for me, I can't help with advice on that process.

This is the central locking module. It had water damage to external electrical connecters and an internal problem with corrosion on some contacts.
Almost hidden by the frame rail is a silver shape that is the alarm control module. This one had corroded connections and a broken wire from the wiring harness, but no interior damage.



After removing the wiring connectors this needs to be removed:



this is next:



And here are the goodies inside.



The pump motor would not shut off properly and I found the contacts to be dirty. They are a bit hard to see behind the green plastic bracket.




The outer ratcheting part of the 18 pin connector. For the control pump.

The inner part of the 18 pin connector for the control pump.

Metal female pin that is inside the black 18 pin connector.
It was so corroded that fell apart and the wire broke off.
UPDATE:
Due to the fact that only five pins are used in the 18 pin connector my plan is to unsolder the ones that are not used and in good shape. Unsolder and replace the ones that broke off due to the extreme corrosion. Just an effort to help the next person.
UPDATE #2
Needswings reached out to me PM and they state they have a rebuild kit for the 18 pin connector if any one needs it. The pins come with the wire on it so you will have to splice the wire.
I discovered that this pump also controls your fog lamp timed dimming and map lights timed dimming when exiting the car. I'm putting the link to it below.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/troubleshooting-technical-modifications/78829-my-fog-lights-won-t-turn-off.html#post910989
UPDATE 3
I purchased the pins from needswings for the 18 pin connector I bought 2 so if someone else needs them I’ll sell them to you for what I paid around $8.00 a pin.
I took apart the CPS pump and my circuit board was not corroded so I desoldered the and removed the broken pins #13,14 and # 9 pins broke off during removal of the 18 pin connector. I moved the broken pins to the spots that are not used. Then I resoldered the 18 pin connector back into place.
I put the CPS back in and everything worked great!
I am now confident that if you have a CPS that requires the same repair I can do it.
PM me and we can set up shipping and I’ll let you know if I can repair it when I get it.
I also have learned that the fog lights and map lights turning on when you get out of the car are controlled partially through the CPS. Also the siren is partially controlled through it as well. My alarm would not go off with the CPS disconnected. Now with it repaired everything works like it should again.
Thank you all that helped me on this journey. I will now pay it forward.

 

was looking for schematic of air lines for the locking system. found it on the site of tech documents thanks

 

The inner part of the 18 pin connector for the control pump
Do you have a wiring diagram?

 

This may help:

 

Thank you, that's very helpful