Last year my driver's seat stopped working. I took it to the dealer thinking it would covered under warranty. They told me when I took it in that if it was a broken wire it would not be covered under warranty. $500 out of pocket to fix what they said was a broken connector (it would be a real ***** to get the seat out of the car when you can't move it).

One year later and the seat is not working again. I'll call the dealer and schedule it in but I bet I am going to pay again. Anyone else have this problem?

I'm the only driver so I never move the seat, other than on long trips moving it a little back or forward to keep from getting too tired. I NEVER put anything behind the seat or on the floor that could snag a wire.

Before anyone asks, yes I checked the fuse. I swapped the one from the passenger side, that works, for the one on the drivers side but no joy.

 

Might find some help HERE.

 

Thanks.
I was part of that thread.

 

Well if I was on the Moon and had to fix it to come home, it would be fixed !!!!!!!!!!

THe seat is heavy as I said and I did it at 62 yoa. Use tape and a heavy towel on the rocker panel and remove the "crossfire panel" for protection.

Id plan for the car to be down a while. work the bolts - get a kneeling pad and see whats up. Yank every exposed connector, get a voltmeter or 2 at Harbor freight** and see if there it 12 volts going to the connector /pins. I use a pin or a #11 exacto knife blade to stab each wire and connect the meters (red lead for the purests, otherwise it will read -12) lead to the knife handle. Cutting the insulation is a toughie and leads to shorts unless you waste the time to retape each one. PS: get a clip lead** to ground the other lead so that you dont have to hold both leads at the same time,WW.

Power has to be available FIRST and foremost. GOt power, then check for the return or ground connection with a ohm meter*.

Got power and ground then you have a switching or limit issue. All the motors are not bad at once. Iam gonna say that you have a power or ground connection issue.

Fixing it is simple as it failed twice now and has to be something that is loose or tight - I hate wire ties especially when trouble shooting issues with them. Your on the freaking moon, you gotta fix it the 300-500 mechanic did. To me that is real money and Id go some to change it.

A woody suggestion. After it is working I pull the seat -remove the bolts and thru drill the bolts to allow through bolts and grade 8 washers to bolt it in so I could remove it if it ever did it again, FROM THE BOTTOM !!!!!!! Please see the photos and our sponser RATT BERT (AKA RB) our second rescue c/o WVA.



* Using An Ohmmeter Guide

** $3.99 unless it is $2.99 each, BLOW them up and dont cry. Woody

WOODY ENJOY

 

thats a really good idea about drilling the bolts woody!! i couldnt get mine to move and those darn bolts were a real pain!!

 

As was mentioned before (check the link) . . . it is probably just a connector that has come loose and you have no electrical connection (even though the connector may "look" like it is plugged together). . . .

I believe that the factory used tie wraps to hold the connectors together, so they would not seperate. If your seat has been repaired for the heating element issue, then it may be these tie wraps were not reinstalled. Hence the issue of the connection coming loose . . . So if you can get the bolts out and pull up the seat, I would suggest checking the connector for the tie wrap, if not there, then add one and you won't have an issue again.

Funny how one "small thing" like a tie wrap, could make such a fuss. And it could all be just one person's mistake (laziness ???), etc, to create the headache !

Just my two cents

Mark

 

I looked at my seat last night. It appears that all the connectors are at the front of the seat so I could see tham. There was not a single tie wrap. Maybe when they repaired the seat heater two years ago they didn't put tie wraps on.

Are you sure that there should be tie wraps on all the plugs?

 

I was pretty sure that there was a tie wrap . . . look at the attached pic, this is when I took it out of the car . . . the tie wrap was around the MAIN connector (left side of picture) . . .

Flickr Photo Download: Beginning - seat bottom

You can move back through the pics towards page one to follow the seat heater repair I did . . .

Mark

 

Here is the pic of the connector without the cover and tie wrap holding things together . . .

ctl connectors on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Mark

 

Well, the good news is that my seat is fixed.
The better news is that it cost me $0.00. It was the same connector I paid $500 to fix last year, so they didn't charge me to fix the same part again. Nice of them.

 

What was wrong with it? Broken, loose?

 

They said a connector came apart.