Ok so I have looked on the forum for the information but not finding exactly what I guess I am looking for so please forgive me if I am asking old question. Or please just give me the link.

2004 XF 158,000 coupe 6SPD grey color

Knowing that I plan to change the oil , get new tires and fresh battery. I wanted to know what other things I should do as far as basic tune up work on the cross fire after I pick her up. When I change the oil what filter to get ? Do I need to replace oil plug ? And what's a nice set of tires to get. It does not snow where I live so no issues there. Just trying to get all my stuff in order once I pick her up. Thanks again for the fast responses from my last post.

 

Filter - Mann HU718/5
Tires - depends a lot on your budget
oil plug - probably ( I don't cause I use a TopSider )
Battery = get a AGM battery
Other fixes :
Sticky Key
RCM resolder
door speaker capacitors

There is no 'tune up' on this engine, just change the plugs at 100,000 miles or so.
( check the serpentine belt for excessive cracking and use a stethoscope or whatever to listed to the idler bearings and the water pump. )

 

Congrats on the purchase!

What you propose is a good start. On the oil change, many folks just suction the oil out through the top, so no issues with even removing the drain plug. Likewise, the oil filter spins on from the top. It's a cartridge vs. a spin-on type. I use Mann # HU718/5x. Stick with the recommended synthetic oil.

On tires, it's not just about snow. If you plan to drive at lower than 40°F temps (or even store the car sitting on all fours that cold), tire experts recommend sticking with All Season tires - they'll last longer. Continental Conti Touring or Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus are ones you'll see on the forum regularly and IMO are better than the OEM tires. I've never run summer only tires, so I'm no help there.

Batteries are a personal choice, but be cognizant of the size. I've had two Interstate MTP-48 H6 in mine that fit perfectly. (Be sure to save the positive post cover from the old battery and switch it over to the new one. Often, the new ones don't come with them.)

Unless you know the service history on the car, I'd suggest replacing the air filters (2 of them on a stock engine cover), cabin air filter and steering stabilizer. Might be good to do a radiator flush and fill while you're at it. Are the hood struts still holding? If not, replace them. Brakes still good? If not, I personally would replace both the pads and rotors.

If you aren't already aware, the Crossfire in many ways is a Mercedes SLK 320 (R170 platform) with different sheet metal. I'm oversimplifying a bit, of course, but you'll find MB parts are generally MUCH cheaper than Mopar/Chrysler specific ones for these cars.

These cars are not difficult to work on, and many of their faults/cures are listed here in the forum, curated by our resident sage, onehundred80. If you like to wrench, consider swapping brake lines to stainless steel (due to age of the rubber ones).

 

Add a ground strap from the batt to bellhousing per mods here .

 

I'd say Valve Cover gasket replacement if you notice some minor oil leaking from the covers. Fairly easy job just make sure to note where each bolt goes as they are different sizes. Also, I gave the covers a good cleaning with engine degreaser

 

I am pretty good with a solder gun. I have fixed our whole climate control system in my wife's highlander. And the dealership wanted $1200 and I fixed it for less then $20 bucks. So I like to think pretty mechanical. So i can do the RCM job if i know what to do. The battery that's in there now

 

so I took some pics today of belt. Dont have a stethoscope. But again let it run today for a long time and never got hot or temp raise stayed just below the half line.

 

My question is if you could direct me to what brakes to get for front and back and rotors for all the way around. I just put new brakes and rotors front and back on my.legend. also what air filters should I get. Thank you again.

 

Me I use ceramic brakes and drilled rotors.
metallic and semi metallic brakes do bit last very long and make alot if dust.

Drilled rotors help with cooling and helps lower the chance of warping rotors alittle.
I would not get slotted rotors for daily driving, thebslots glaze the pads, increases stopping power but loss in pad life.

I have 140,000 on my drilled rotors and ceramic pads and lots of life left in them.

I got mine cheap on ebay.


For tires there are several brands, depends on what
I use Yokohama avid ENVIGOR on front, made in usa
backs I run 285/35 michelin
I have used Goodyear's, gmax, dws, dws-06, summit also.

some people use the barum tires and there are the atlas and Achilles rand tores that have been coming know that are cheap.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/302814604981

I found this kit on ebay would this be good to replace with ?

 

Looks OK to me.

 

They would work.
but me personally I don't like slotted rotors for a daily driver, unless it is on a truck that needs help braking with towing.

Me I would get these

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fit-2007-20...gAAOSwy5NeWgCw

 

You know alot more then me and that's a great price..and any recommendation on air filters. Thank you for the help. I really just want to get all the mechanical stuff done for a great ride and look. And the inside I will work on as time goes by. But I got to have my music and bass. I currently have 2 12 subs, Amp. Tweeters, and door speakers and 6x9 in my legend. Thanks for all the help.

 

Haha, I have alot of power in the system in mine.

 

You have two threads going at the same time, people have to read both to get the real picture that makes it confusing.
Stick to one thread or people will either give answers already give or not bother to answer at all. I doubt if some know how any miles you have on the car.

 

what do you have actually ? I been trying to decide what type of custom box I will have and type of speakers. I seen on the forum here what it says with out mods. I like loud highs and deep bass. Listen to alot of club music. I have it all done professionally.

 

Sorry about that i will delete. One. Dont want to cause any issues. Thanks for the tip..

 

Mine
Kenwood kmr-d558bt
Skar tx65c components on factory amp
Skar tweeters on dash beside a pillars
Oem tweeters in door on factory amp
Skar skv2-1500.1 amp powering
2 Skar zvx -8 subwoofers in 2 seperate sealed boxes
​​​​​​​And still have plenty of room for my luggage and bags every week
If I get tired, it will keep me awake, hahah

Have 4 tweeters installed.
With my 2 sub boxes, I made them so I can fit 4 armor cans in between them, and carry some tools.

I have been wanting to get a pair of either 6x9 3 or 5 way or 6x9 woofers for mids and make spacer rings and take out the Pyle 6 5 out, the 6x9 would be facing the seat just get a pair that the magnets fit inside the holes if you don't want to do any trimming.

I did have the vvx 8v3 which are only 400 watts rms less than the 800 or 900 watts rms of the zvx, and they did good in sealed boxes but the zvx is rated for .6 cu ft in sealed boxes but I am not a fan of them in sealed boxes, they would sound great in ported .
​​​​​​​I built and modified 3 different sealed boxes and still can't get the zvx 8 to sound how I want in sealed boxes

But as I said on my ling drives sometimes late at night if I am tired, I have my music to keep me up and alert.

I have a 180 amp alternator new still in the box, I haven't put on yet.

I went with 8 's for the size, since I carry luggage every week, I have plenty of room to set luggage on top.

 

Agreed. Stay away from slotted unless you plan to really push the car and stop fast. They eat up brake pads. Drilled help and don't wear the pads as quickly.

 

So I have a question when you have time? would you be willing to take some.pics and also.roughly what did that install cost?