thought i'd show you guys my ride.
'02 mazda protege 5, 5 speed, 2.0L dohc 4 valves/cylinder. 130 hp stock.

mods right now are cat-back, cai, short shifter, tints, cf hood, couple other things as well.
waiting in my basement to be installed is eibach pro kit, racing beat suspension kit (front and rear sway bar and rear subframe), eyelids,
hawk hps pads, powerstop drilled rotors.
custom turbo kit (turbo manifold and garrett t25 turbo and downpipe, FMIC and all pipes, couplers and elbows, modified AEM short ram intake, coolant lines and T's, oil cooler line and oil line T-adaptor to oil pressure sensor. catless midpipe, msp non flashed pnp ecu, stewart warner boost gauge, autometer air fuel meter. a-pillar 2 gauge pod all electrical connectors, blow off valve. lower oil pan with oil return line fitting and oil return line.
voodoo boost MBC with ceramic ball upgrade it is set at 7 psi. that's all i can think of now.

now for my stereo,
for my speakers i've got hifonics 3 way 6x9s in the front and fosgate 3 way 6 1/2s in the back. all 4 are powered be a 1,000 watt nitro amp.
i can't roll my windows completely down because they're so big.
my head unit is a jenson lcd touchscreen. plays dvd, playstation, tv, ipod, pretty much anything.
got the ps2 in the glove box. passengers love playin midnight club 3 while cruisin the highway lol.
my sub is a 12" kicker solo x. solobaric. 2,500 watts rms. dual 2 ohm vc.
my sub amp is a kicker kx2500.1. rated at 2,880 rms This thing is like 3 feet wide with the endcaps on.
i've got a blitz 50 farad cap. It looks pretty nice and the way i got it installed it lights up my car real nice at night, but 50 farads is way overrated for this thing.
i've got an optima red top battery as well.
i got 0 gauge pretty much everywhere, two 4 gauges in some spots though.
my box is a little over 3 cubic feet, ported. its a decent box but when i get the time i'll make a bigger one, about 5 or 6 cubic feet.
i've got dynamat all over my car, i bought the big box (33 square feet) and it did the job. i really noticed the difference when the dynamat was put in. sounds a lot cleaner and a lot less rattling. My lights are dimming quite a bit at stop lights when i've got it pumping, so i'm gonna get a bigger alternator when i get the chance to.
since i've got 1 dual 2 ohm vc sub i have to run the amp at 4 ohms, as 1 ohm isn't stable on this thing. i'm thinking about either getting another 12 inch solox and having 2 of em so my amp would be at 2 ohms. its like 1,500 rms at 4 ohms. or, i might just get the 18 inch solo x. i'd need the dual 1 ohm vc for that.
i've been to a couple contests here in sarnia and got 1st in my class both times. i hit 162 db. that's 4 db better when i had it in my buick park ave without the cap. i'd say thats not bad considering my amp is only using half the power because its at 4 ohms and not 2. i like getting so much sound out of 1 12 inch sub. its a pretty clean setup but im planning on mixing it up a bit so i didn't do anything too permanent.

planning on getting 18s and body kit this summer, as well as stage 1 clutch, mazdaspeed lsd.
i autox at wosca events here in sarnia. www.wosca.com

that's all i can think of at the moment.
i know this is a xf site, so don't be rippin on me for showing you guys my "japanese ricer" some may call it.
hope you like it.

 

better pics.

 

looks like a great daily driver ... functional and still fun.

 

Makes me feel like saying;

ZOOM, ZOOM, ZOOM...

 

i like the mods you have done! is that racing you do time trials? it sounds pretty cool! what kind of hp are you putting out with the engine mods?

 

i've only got the cold air and cat back right now... probably gives me 15 more horse than stock. with the turbo kit and all that, set at about 8 psi i'll be at around 210 whp.

i race autox. its small time trial courses set up in a big parking lot using cones. lap times are usually around 60-80 seconds. speeds anywhere almost stopped up to 50 mph on some courses.

 

Has it been reliable?

 

yep. only thing i've needed to replace are the rear pads and disks. that's not abuse from autox tho, that's from driftin around corners in the snow usin the ebrake. i wore through a brand new set of nexen n3000 (i think they are anyways) tires pretty quick. its a really nice winter drift car when i have it set up right. put the steelies on the front, with the worn down summer rubber on the back, take the 100+ pounds worth of sub and box out, and i'm the new tokyo drifter. haha.

 

here we go again. you know the P5 is a front-wheel drive car (or do you), and that jamming the e-brake around in the snow is not drifting.

 

dude nobody cares what the correct term for it is. no **** my cars front wheel drive. why do you think i would put steelies with snow tires on the front? uhhhh... to look cool? traction in the snow you dumb ****. quit your b*tchin.

 

Using the e-brake to lock the rear wheels shouldn't create too much wear on your pads and rotors. Think about it, Its not like you're using the brakes to stop a XXX lbs car at speed. Instantaneous lock up does not generate heat on the rotors on low grip surfaces. I have done this for years with various FWD cars and never had a problem. I replace my rear pads every other time, which is normal for a FWD car...

 

that's true, but i think they overheated from on-off lock up. got drilled rotors and hawk performance pads so they'll do the job.