Centric drilled and slotted rotors complete with posi quiet brake pad set for sale
Got my rears yesterday...all 4 set and ready to install, cant wait. Thanks Marc, they are so flippin cool and look great
I sent the paypal payment on May 18th and haven't heard or seen anything since. Just wondering how long it usually takes to receive the rotors.
Marc, I received my fronts today so I now have everything I need to install. I do have a question though. When the front pads are installed, do I need to replace the sensors too or does one come with the Posi Quiet pads?
Originally Posted by TomStratRT
Marc, I received my fronts today so I now have everything I need to install. I do have a question though. When the front pads are installed, do I need to replace the sensors too or does one come with the Posi Quiet pads?
Hey Tom you shouldn't have to replace the sensor unless broken...the brake pads do not come with any sensors but if you need them I can get them to you for 2 bucks shipped. More than likely you should not have to replace those though....But let me know if you have any issues or you can give me a call..
thanks buddy
Originally Posted by freakingfastsrt6
Hey Tom you shouldn't have to replace the sensor unless broken...the brake pads do not come with any sensors but if you need them I can get them to you for 2 bucks shipped. More than likely you should not have to replace those though....But let me know if you have any issues or you can give me a call..
thanks buddy
thanks buddy
BTW something that I wondering about is there a left and a right for slotted rotors?
I'm getting a considerable amount of brake dust with these pads and Valk mentioned the slot can run either direction.
Please understand that not everyone is as knowledgeable as everyone else, which is a nice way of me telling you to keep your sarcastic comments to yourself.
I'm a 51 year old female and have never installed brakes let alone rotors. That I did any of this is good let alone twice. I couldn't understand a clunking noise problem and disassembled them the second time to sand the contact points and verify they were safe.
So anyway, is this correct? It would make sense that there would be a R/L. That the slot is "cutting" with or against the pad.
I'm getting a considerable amount of brake dust with these pads and Valk mentioned the slot can run either direction.
Please understand that not everyone is as knowledgeable as everyone else, which is a nice way of me telling you to keep your sarcastic comments to yourself.
I'm a 51 year old female and have never installed brakes let alone rotors. That I did any of this is good let alone twice. I couldn't understand a clunking noise problem and disassembled them the second time to sand the contact points and verify they were safe.
So anyway, is this correct? It would make sense that there would be a R/L. That the slot is "cutting" with or against the pad.
Last edited by Rapps; Jun 7, 2011 at 07:48 AM.
Very Interesting, I am going to be installing these rotors (and by me I mean a friend of a friend who is a mechanic) and I want to make sure he installs the rotors the correct way. How do you tell the difference between left and right?
thanks!
thanks!
I am asking if there is a R/L, I don't know for sure, but it does make some sense.
Valk said the rotor company site has info, but he was talking to Crossfirefrank so I don't know if the name of the rotors came up [in order to check the site out].
Valk said the rotor company site has info, but he was talking to Crossfirefrank so I don't know if the name of the rotors came up [in order to check the site out].
Last edited by Rapps; Jun 7, 2011 at 08:28 AM.
In regards to the direction for install, the slots and holes don't matter. What matters is the orientation of the vanes in the rotor. If the car is moving <---- this way, then the top of the rotor's vanes (as seen from the left side (driver's side for us southerners)) the vanes should be /////. As if the vanes were "flinging" the air away from the hub as they roll. Not "catching" air. Like a squirrel cage fan. Oh geeze, this link might work better:
http://www.racingbrake.com/v/images/disc_rotation.jpg
If the vanes in between the rotor's halves are straight, then put them on the way you think they look the coolest.
Nice brakes. I'm sorry I didn't catch who made the rotors, care to post?
http://www.racingbrake.com/v/images/disc_rotation.jpg
If the vanes in between the rotor's halves are straight, then put them on the way you think they look the coolest.
Nice brakes. I'm sorry I didn't catch who made the rotors, care to post?
Thank you aftcg, something tells me I'm redoing at least one pair of rotors ......arg
One other thought could the dust I'm getting now be "left over" from the OEMs?
Checking general info on line I found this from a racing rotor manufacturer:
"For high performance applications the slots and vanes (if curved) should always angle to the rear. The curved vanes must sweep rearwards to evacuate heat from the rotor, likewise the slots must angle rearward to evacuate brake pad dust."
These pictures as well. Marc let us know about the specifics for these rotors. My fronts and rears do not rotate the same direction currently.
One other thought could the dust I'm getting now be "left over" from the OEMs?
Checking general info on line I found this from a racing rotor manufacturer:
"For high performance applications the slots and vanes (if curved) should always angle to the rear. The curved vanes must sweep rearwards to evacuate heat from the rotor, likewise the slots must angle rearward to evacuate brake pad dust."
These pictures as well. Marc let us know about the specifics for these rotors. My fronts and rears do not rotate the same direction currently.
Last edited by Rapps; Jun 7, 2011 at 08:49 AM.
Good info to have Rapp's, I to was confused about this when I was going to put these on my wife's Taurus last year. I had to research it myself but if I remember right ( and that is a story in itself!) the ones I purchased were marked R & L.
PS I saved your pictures for later reference, Thanks
PS I saved your pictures for later reference, Thanks
driver side mounted

passenger side mounted

Now in terms of the way they should be mounted would be the way the vein direction is....in the case of the crossfire N/a there is not a directional vein. So really is up to you the way you want to mount the rotors....But make sure left and right side are going in the same direction, meaning the front left and the rear left side brake rotor should be mounted in the same direction not opposing each other. Which way is up to you. Reason being is the Rotors the N/a crossfire has are straight veined. On the srt6 is a different story as the veins are directional.
the rotors on the left are passenger side rotors and the ones on the right are drivers side. Again its up to you in terms of direction but this is the way I mount them. Also my vette rotors are directional and thats how they are meant to go...
hope this helps

passenger side mounted

Now in terms of the way they should be mounted would be the way the vein direction is....in the case of the crossfire N/a there is not a directional vein. So really is up to you the way you want to mount the rotors....But make sure left and right side are going in the same direction, meaning the front left and the rear left side brake rotor should be mounted in the same direction not opposing each other. Which way is up to you. Reason being is the Rotors the N/a crossfire has are straight veined. On the srt6 is a different story as the veins are directional.
the rotors on the left are passenger side rotors and the ones on the right are drivers side. Again its up to you in terms of direction but this is the way I mount them. Also my vette rotors are directional and thats how they are meant to go...
hope this helps
Last edited by freakingfastsrt6; Jun 7, 2011 at 02:04 PM.
couple of quick questions, im not understanding sanding the contact points to verify they were safe???? you should not sand these rotors or pads as they are race prepped from Centric and pads have already been scorched...can you grab me a picture of the brake dust your seeing? Also of what you were sanding? Also did you happen to clean your brake calipers and the inside of your wheels as they produce lots of brake dust build up on those and will come lose and stick in water. clunking noise issue is mechanical related as brake and a pad would not make that kind of sound when installed correctly. I have posted pics of the way I would mount them...let try and figure this out as it seams there are alot of issues that you are having with these brakes when you shouldn't....Also on thing to ::note:: if your seeing black brake dust you are not seeing the ceramic brake pad dust as ceramic pads leave a really lite color film vs black. Hope this helps
Originally Posted by Rapp's
BTW something that I wondering about is there a left and a right for slotted rotors?
I'm getting a considerable amount of brake dust with these pads and Valk mentioned the slot can run either direction.
Please understand that not everyone is as knowledgeable as everyone else, which is a nice way of me telling you to keep your sarcastic comments to yourself.
I'm a 51 year old female and have never installed brakes let alone rotors. That I did any of this is good let alone twice. I couldn't understand a clunking noise problem and disassembled them the second time to sand the contact points and verify they were safe.
So anyway, is this correct? It would make sense that there would be a R/L. That the slot is "cutting" with or against the pad.
I'm getting a considerable amount of brake dust with these pads and Valk mentioned the slot can run either direction.
Please understand that not everyone is as knowledgeable as everyone else, which is a nice way of me telling you to keep your sarcastic comments to yourself.
I'm a 51 year old female and have never installed brakes let alone rotors. That I did any of this is good let alone twice. I couldn't understand a clunking noise problem and disassembled them the second time to sand the contact points and verify they were safe.
So anyway, is this correct? It would make sense that there would be a R/L. That the slot is "cutting" with or against the pad.
Howdy Marc, for those who haven't spoken with him, he and I went over some of this on the phone over the holiday weekend, he's generous with his time 
OK first off, cool wheel color combo for the Vette, now if you can fix the car so that it's a Viper you would be all set!!
I had said:
"disassembled them the second time to sand the contact points and verify they were safe"
I cleaned up/sanded off the ample layer of rust from the calipers where the pad's "tabs/hooks" sit. The thinking was the noise was mechanical, not brake squeal, so why on all 4 wheels did I hear this God awful noise at any speed when I punched the brakes? It could of been that the pads were loudly complaining as they moved (they do slide a little from the piston movement) over that rusted caliper area. One other point if you do sand these spots on the calipers put some lube on after. We had this product that was made for doing this, just a tiny amount as well.
The "and verify they were safe" is because we were leaving for a GTG and didn't want to find an oh $hit while on the road. After the second time the noise was still there, but after our trip to Fleetwood in Canada it's gone, so I feel it's become a non-issue at this point only because I think my "miss-matched directional front/rear" rotors may of played a part initially. The miles from the trip seemed to of stopped the noise, but the rotors still need to be swapped out to make front and rear match.
I was suspicious that the dust, which is black black black and now dissipating, was from the wheel well area. I had sprayed and cleaned the wells up, also used compressed air to blow everything, but that stuff is so fine it hides everywhere. I have to say I've taken the wheels off 3 times and washed them completely, the black dust was still pretty heavy. The rotors had it packed in the slots and holes too.
This is on a car that always had the wheel wells washed out/up so if someone hasn't been cleaning the dust off I can imagine they would see black dust for a while.
Attached are pictures showing the dust on I believe a passenger rear and front. Also a shot of the spots where I sanded the rust off the calipers. The pads and rotors have not made any of the squeal noise some people claim ceramic pads will have and they stop the car great! Some butt head came inches close to side swiping us in Canada my car stopped neck snappingly fast!
Also credit to my loving husband who is the person who jacks the car up and physically gets the wheels off. My hands are not strong enough to do that stuff. Also I have him check my work so if I screwed up he'll catch it. Thank you sweetie.
(FYI Marc the set screws fit on all 4 rotors for our sets)
OK first off, cool wheel color combo for the Vette, now if you can fix the car so that it's a Viper you would be all set!!
I had said:
"disassembled them the second time to sand the contact points and verify they were safe"
I cleaned up/sanded off the ample layer of rust from the calipers where the pad's "tabs/hooks" sit. The thinking was the noise was mechanical, not brake squeal, so why on all 4 wheels did I hear this God awful noise at any speed when I punched the brakes? It could of been that the pads were loudly complaining as they moved (they do slide a little from the piston movement) over that rusted caliper area. One other point if you do sand these spots on the calipers put some lube on after. We had this product that was made for doing this, just a tiny amount as well.
The "and verify they were safe" is because we were leaving for a GTG and didn't want to find an oh $hit while on the road. After the second time the noise was still there, but after our trip to Fleetwood in Canada it's gone, so I feel it's become a non-issue at this point only because I think my "miss-matched directional front/rear" rotors may of played a part initially. The miles from the trip seemed to of stopped the noise, but the rotors still need to be swapped out to make front and rear match.
I was suspicious that the dust, which is black black black and now dissipating, was from the wheel well area. I had sprayed and cleaned the wells up, also used compressed air to blow everything, but that stuff is so fine it hides everywhere. I have to say I've taken the wheels off 3 times and washed them completely, the black dust was still pretty heavy. The rotors had it packed in the slots and holes too.
This is on a car that always had the wheel wells washed out/up so if someone hasn't been cleaning the dust off I can imagine they would see black dust for a while.
Attached are pictures showing the dust on I believe a passenger rear and front. Also a shot of the spots where I sanded the rust off the calipers. The pads and rotors have not made any of the squeal noise some people claim ceramic pads will have and they stop the car great! Some butt head came inches close to side swiping us in Canada my car stopped neck snappingly fast!
Also credit to my loving husband who is the person who jacks the car up and physically gets the wheels off. My hands are not strong enough to do that stuff. Also I have him check my work so if I screwed up he'll catch it. Thank you sweetie.
(FYI Marc the set screws fit on all 4 rotors for our sets)
Last edited by Rapps; Jun 7, 2011 at 04:43 PM.
Ann...
First thank on the comment on the vette...I wish it were a Viper, Maybe your husband will trade....lol....
Okay so first The black dust your seeing is not from the ceramic brake pads...as these ceramic pads do not produce this color dust at all....My suggestion would be to first take brake parts cleaner clean all surfaces, Rotor, Backing heat shield, Brake caliper, wheels inside which sounds like you have already...one thing alot of people tend to forget while replacing brakes is to clean off all oil residue of the brake caliper and rotor...Parts cleaner only! This layer of grease when heated will do exaclty what you are seeing. I can see on the rotor itself that there is a layer of grease that looks to be melted into the metal all over it which is giving all that black dust. I would also suggest using a stop sqeek made by Mcc that you pour into the brake pads...This will completely eliminate brake squeek 100%...good job on the compressed air as this is a crucial step in trying to eliminate all of your tared on dust! but aekm sure to use brake parts cleaner as well! Also LUBE IS THE ENEMY WHEN IT COMES TO BRAKES!!!! Make sure nothing is around the brake rotor or pad! Like I said you will hear horrible sounds and that black dust will come through while tacking up your brake pads!
So I'm thinking alot of the issues in your case were grease and oem wear related and sounds like they are starting to burn off the more you drive??? So my advice give it a month and see where its at??? If the pads are still not clearing send them back to me and Ill have another set of pads out to you~!
As for the set screws Im still trying to find a N/a to work with so I can see what some people are expeirencing as 80% said that they line and the other 20% said they don't...Im wondering if its user error or a factory run that got into my hands??? IDK....
::NOTE::
anyone around my neck of the woods who wants free LABOR...I will install your brakes free of charge to get a write up done on this car....
First thank on the comment on the vette...I wish it were a Viper, Maybe your husband will trade....lol....
Okay so first The black dust your seeing is not from the ceramic brake pads...as these ceramic pads do not produce this color dust at all....My suggestion would be to first take brake parts cleaner clean all surfaces, Rotor, Backing heat shield, Brake caliper, wheels inside which sounds like you have already...one thing alot of people tend to forget while replacing brakes is to clean off all oil residue of the brake caliper and rotor...Parts cleaner only! This layer of grease when heated will do exaclty what you are seeing. I can see on the rotor itself that there is a layer of grease that looks to be melted into the metal all over it which is giving all that black dust. I would also suggest using a stop sqeek made by Mcc that you pour into the brake pads...This will completely eliminate brake squeek 100%...good job on the compressed air as this is a crucial step in trying to eliminate all of your tared on dust! but aekm sure to use brake parts cleaner as well! Also LUBE IS THE ENEMY WHEN IT COMES TO BRAKES!!!! Make sure nothing is around the brake rotor or pad! Like I said you will hear horrible sounds and that black dust will come through while tacking up your brake pads!
So I'm thinking alot of the issues in your case were grease and oem wear related and sounds like they are starting to burn off the more you drive??? So my advice give it a month and see where its at??? If the pads are still not clearing send them back to me and Ill have another set of pads out to you~!
As for the set screws Im still trying to find a N/a to work with so I can see what some people are expeirencing as 80% said that they line and the other 20% said they don't...Im wondering if its user error or a factory run that got into my hands??? IDK....
::NOTE::
anyone around my neck of the woods who wants free LABOR...I will install your brakes free of charge to get a write up done on this car....
All this talk about rotors...
As Marc said...On our na Crossfires the rotors DO NOT have directional cooling vanes inside therefore the direction of the slots is optional.
Just be sure you install the front drivers side and rear drivers side with the slots the SAME way.
Same goes for the passenger front and rear.
I chose to install with the slots pointing forward as the wheel comes around to the top.
My theory is that brake dust if any would be thrown toward the inner hub and not the outer side of the rotor and onto the wheels.
I have had absolutely NO brake dust NO noises and the rotors are shiny and still look like new with hundreds of miles already on them.
Here are my install pics: Post 77
Also some good info can be found here:
How to properly install plain, slotted, or drilled brake rotors
In summary......
The direction of the slots on the outside of the rotor do not dictate whether the rotor is a left or a right.
Bottom line - don't use the slots to decide which side to mount the rotor. Pay attention to the internal cooling vanes.
As Marc said...On our na Crossfires the rotors DO NOT have directional cooling vanes inside therefore the direction of the slots is optional.
Just be sure you install the front drivers side and rear drivers side with the slots the SAME way.
Same goes for the passenger front and rear.
I chose to install with the slots pointing forward as the wheel comes around to the top.
My theory is that brake dust if any would be thrown toward the inner hub and not the outer side of the rotor and onto the wheels.
I have had absolutely NO brake dust NO noises and the rotors are shiny and still look like new with hundreds of miles already on them.
Here are my install pics: Post 77
Also some good info can be found here:
How to properly install plain, slotted, or drilled brake rotors
In summary......
The direction of the slots on the outside of the rotor do not dictate whether the rotor is a left or a right.
For slotted rotors with straight internal cooling vanes (NA rotors) the direction of the slots is totally up to you and what you think looks best.
In this case, there is no wrong answer.Bottom line - don't use the slots to decide which side to mount the rotor. Pay attention to the internal cooling vanes.
Last edited by Valk; Jun 7, 2011 at 10:50 PM.



