Yo HDDP! When are you gonna post pictures of your fender flare work done to the race car? I'm dying to see what your set up looks like. I need some motivation before I go and buy the tool for the job!

 

Fourth event with the car was today and I finally got some clean runs in. A strong finish of 3rd in the indexed Pro class and 3rd overall in Pax was a strong performance behind two very strong drivers. One of which was in a brand new 2007 Mini Cooper S.


http://http://www.auto-x.com/results....27.07_fin.htm
http://http://www.auto-x.com/results....27.07_pax.htm

 

Good showing... And tough to beat a MINI/S on a tight course...

 

http://www.scca.com/_FileLibrary/Fil...%20Results.pdf

First Pro-solo victory for the Crossfire in DS. There were 11 people in our class and the Crossfires took 1st, 2nd, and 5th. A good strong finish on the National scene.

 

Congrats!!

 

Solo II Racer, can you post some photos of your exhaust and trailer hitch set up? I have been wondering how I was going to be able to carry another set of wheels. Also, what are you running for alignment settings? Thanks.

 

I had already posted a picture of it but here it is again.
hitch.jpg
The hitch is custom and consists of the receiver tube and two 24 inch long pieces of steel strapping. The strapping is bolted to the trunk floor and reinforced. It is good to pull a tire trailer but I wouldn't recommend putting anything with more than a 200 lb tongue weight on it.

My alignment settings are -1.5 degrees camber in front with 1/8 degree toe out and -1.2 degrees camber in the rear and 0 toe.

 

I think you need to take a trip to the local police auction and pick your self up a used pick up truck from Caltrans or something. You can get a good suv real cheap for about $1,500 - $2,000 you could have a 2500 series Suburban and spend another $1,000 for a beat up flat bed car trailer on craigs list...

 

Uh? That money would be going into race tires. I have driven the car with the tire trailer behind for over 300 miles straight with no issues what so ever. I check the mountings consistently and they are fine. My dad did the design and welding and he has some 25+ years experience building custom trailer hitches as well as building roll cages so I think he knows what he is doing. Plus anything you buy at an auction for that cheap will be no where near reliable enough for how far I would need to drive it to some events.

 

I was hoping for some photos from underneath looking up at the design and attachments. Thanks.

 

That would involve me having to remove the rear under panels and I really don't want to put the car up on the lift to do that right now. It is a very simple design that is just bolted to the floor of the trunk and reinforced with some steel on the inside. Very similar to the trailer hitches that are used on the MB SLK or even the 3 series BMW hitches that I have seen.

 

whats the set ups looking like now a days fellas?? i work as the gm of a jimmy johns sub shop and i set up an event with my region scca and catered their food. in return they let me run my owners jimmy johns logo'd mustang(much woulda rather ran my crossfire). this is the first time i had the time/chance to run an actual sanctioned race. needless to say, im hooked. ive got the eurocharged tune, that take me outta the stock class? can someone link me the rules as well as some good parts to invest in? thanks!!
mustangautocross.jpg
mustangautocross2.jpg

 

For SCCA, I think getting a tune takes you out of DS and puts you in DSP. However, I don't think anyone would know, or potentially care. The un-modded NA motor has a pretty decent torque curve for SOLO II.

Rule #1: Autocross compound tires. They come up to temp quick to generate superior grip. Hoosier A6's probably the best, but wear quickly and are the most expensive. Kuhmo's and Hankook's are both competitive, but don't offer a 19" option for the rear so you are left with Hoosiers or leaving DS by putting 18" wheels in the rear. Other Extreme Performance summer tires like Perelli Corsa System, Mich Pilot Sport and Yokohama AD08s are good, but you can't beat AX tires. MOST BANG FOR THE BUCK. I got 245's up front with a 1/4" spacer (legel) and 295's in the rear -- both on the OEM wheels.

Koni Sport Shocks (1228 -1229) have a good endorsement.

Folks have cut their springs, but that technically takes you out of Stock.

There is a front camber kit bolt that gets you another .3 - .5 degrees of additional negative camber which helps. I'm running -1.7. Check your rear camber. If you've lowered your car you will have to adjust your rear camber. If not, you still may want to adjust it. Mine was at -2.5 on one side, and I've settled at around -1.8.

I run about 1/4" toe out up front, and 1/2" toe in in the rear. I set the rear toe at home before I go to the track and adjust the front at the track while I'm changing the front tires. This makes the car really twitchy on the road, but makes the car respond very well on SOLO II courses. You don't want to leave the alignment this way for daily driving.

Do a throttle reset prior to the race. Really makes the car jump off the line.

Remove the junk from the trunk. Tape down the cup holder. Get a G-Lock seatbelt lock, or twist the belt before clipping (I installed the Roadster sport hoops and a 5-point racing harness -- really holds you in).

Use the search function here and see what Wedge, SOLOII Racer, Velociabstract, NOCones and Woody have posted. Lots of tips on setting up the car.

And now about the driver: Evolution Driving school. Get a wheel & pedal set up with FORZA or Gran Tourismo or iRacing and practice what you learned at Evo. There are also some good reads on how to drive.

Don't change too much all at once (ask Les about that one), and I would tighten the nut behind the wheel before you spend too much time and money on the car. Its pretty dang good without much changes.

Good Luck
Mike

 

+1, great response Mike.

This was my first year involved with SCCA and I am hooked as well. I wish we had some members locally that were more willing to help the new guys out, but that is minor.

With the setup of my car, cut springs, tuned, non stock sized wheels, etc. I never intended to get ultra competitive, and would need to change quite a bit to get competitive in my class, but I went out and beat my boss in his Dinan tuned 335i, and my friend Tom in his Lotus Elise. I obviously have more wheel time than these two with superior cars, but the current setup is turning some quick times...

 

thank you for the quick and excellent response! this is exactly what i needed to know. now i can start pricing parts and saving up. is there a restriction on racing seats?

 

I am getting my Crossfire ready for next season for Auto-x and track days. I read the info on tires and I do want to stay in D if possible. Any luck by anyone with the Kuhmo street tires? Also...before I have to pull them off does anyone know the wieght of the stock rims?

Great info!!!

Mark

 

I have had good luck with the Kumho Ecsta SPT's for drag racing and normal street driving... they stick very good once they are warmed up..... dont know how they will handle for your solo races.....

 

NA wheels weigh 24.5 lbs in the front, and 29.5 lbs in the rear. Not a lot of choices to reduce weight in the wheels without dropping some serious money. The Crossfire does very well in DS. If you want to do well, go to Evolution driving school.

 

Thanks for the wieghts and quick response. Those are not bad numbers compared to some I have seen.

I was thinking of trying the Kuhmo SPT's for my first time out and go from there. They are fairly inexpensive and then decide direction from there.

Mark