NICE !!!!
Question : Why are the mirrors turned in ?

question #2 : How did you do ?

 

Franco: What's-a behind me is not important.


How did you do ?


Do you start in second ?

 

What Padgett said about the mirrors is correct. You always want to look ahead. If you hear what might be a cone being hit, the tendency is to look in the mirror, taking your concentration from what's ahead. On how do I do, well, I was third behind a Subaru WRX and BRZ, but only by less than one second on a fifty+ second course. I start in first, but the shift to second happens quickly as there's not much first gear, and I want both hands on the wheel. The video posted on my YouTube site makes it apparent when the shift occurs. After that, it's second gear all the way. Here's the video link:

 

With my Sunbird it was faster to start in second but had a V8 (F/S). Just need to brutalize the clutch a bit.


Been a few years but thought the WRX would be an issue.


Do you have a Wavetec ? LSD was essential for four wheel steering. (Could pin the nose on a pylon and just pivot).


That was definitely a horsepower course. Must admit I'm more of a squirrel.

 

No LSD. Addition of a LSD would remove me from Street class. The courses that we use usually have about 30-50 feet before the timing lights; so I'm not brutal on the clutch at launch.

 

That's too bad, my LSD was a factory option (ordered it that way) so OK and essential for going fast.


1st in Crossie is almost useless, hits the rev limiter within 20 feet and a fast shift trips the traction control.

 

First gear is almost useless, but since I deactivate the traction control, the shift to second does not affect the performance. I wish Chrysler had put a LSD in the Crossfire, but I assume that the SLK 170 didn't have one either.

 

~ cool photo! thanks for sharing! ~

 

Looks almost completely unloaded on the right side. Stiffer sway bars maybe ?

 

It has the H&R 30mm front bar and stock rear bar. It pushed with the stock 25mm front bar, but I've had no issues with the H&R bar. I agree that it's almost totally unloaded on the right with the Koni Sports set on full stiff. I think that I could use more negative camber. I have the "crash" bolts but have not installed them yet. With the 7.5x17 front wheels (stock offset), I have very little space between the tire and upper spindle mount. I had spacers on the front but they caused a balance issue; so I don't use them anymore. I haven't had the alignment checked; so that's the first step. Then I'll decide about the "crash" bolts. If you notice the cone behind the car, this portion of the course probably had the shortest distance between cones in this slalom.

 

Just an observation but I used to autocross a GM A-body & when I went from a 7/8" rear bar to a 1.25" I could steer with the rear end much easier. Might try a 50% stiffer rear sway bar and soften the rear shocks a bit.


Personally always preferred a lot of oversteer to under but is a bit harder to drive. Really helps on a tight corner. Found was fastest when aimed for the pylons and let the drift carry me clear.

 

Unfortunately, SCCA permits only changing one anti-sway bar to remain in Street class. I'd rather have the benefit of the bigger front bar. I will soften the rear shocks some--right now they're about half way. I think a little more negative camber in the rear might help too. Thanks Padgett for the comments.

 

Yes, indeed a great shot! Thank you for sharing.

 

--No Hijack, but..Nice H-Body...The fog lights didn't impede airflow to the radiator causing heat issues? Is the picture from Bithlo? Also, H-bodyforum dot org is looking for old H-body racing pictures, they are quite rare...Sorry for the hijack, again I am in the middle of building a v6-Vega so it caught my eye.