I'm working on an oil distribution block set up for my stock Limited. Right now all I have is a 2 port version, but will be adapting a 3 port oil block, going to use it to feed an oilcooler, oil temp and pressure gauge. Any one else interested let me know. $150 per block. The return line will be fed into the valve cover for now but I might have to relocate it to the cast pan.

 

Max:

Why are you installing an oil cooler ? Have you installed a temp gauge and is it showing you high oil temps ? As you know, I run my car really hard and have never seen oil my temps over 220... This is probably because we have an 8.5 qt pan... If you are seeing really high oil temps, you need to pull your pan and clean the pump...

Just my 2 cents...

 

I haven't mounted the temp gauge yet. I really think it's important to have an oil cooler on this car mostly because of the oil sprayers that shoot hot oil under the pistons, this is not a good thing for a car running 10.5:1 CR, if I'm going to get the ECU tune for the car, it will be adding more timing, to the fuel air charge, and IMO reducing heat soak to the pistons is a smart modification to do inconjuction with the ECU reflash.

 

I'll agree with that, There's a really easy way to install one that will fit to the forward facing nook of the block and oil pan... You just need to fab-up a bracket and install AN fittings into the oil pan... The Product #119 works perfectly. http://www.bakerprecision.com/setrab.htm

 

I have an Earls store near my work, I'll compare prices and see what's available. I would really like to get it mounted down low, probaly have to pop out the lower bumper grill, I hope Don can make up a nice wiremesh grill for the lower bumper other wise I have to make one.

I don't want to block the radiator any more than it already is, since I'm building a fully molded fiberglass CAI that will mount just behind the grill and will accept large flat panel OEM filters from a v8 benz. this will obstuct the cooling radiator a bit but I hope it's not going to cause a problem with cooling.

 

You can actually mount it in the nook where the top and bottom oil pans connect... Build a bracket and weld it to the block so you can mount the cooler and still leave a 2" gap at the back for air flow...

 

thanks I'll check it out!

 

Maxwell,

Where does this part go? On the oil filter housing or somewhere else?

 

that secret will be revealed to you after purchase. it mounts on the engine

 

Er, why so secretive?

I found it using the '04 service manual. That plug in front of the oil filter assembly is called the "oil pressure testing plug". Looks like it will fit the bill. Thanks.

 

yup,that's the one

 

Wow great sales technique! Bravo Maxwell! Bravo!

 

While I certainly think it's fine (and indeed, good, if what you are making is of value to the larger community) if you use whatever skills you have to make something and sell it here, I'd like to point out that this forum is really supposed to be about sharing information, not hiding it, and certainly not about holding information ransom for your own personal gain.

Yay for commerce. Boo for coercion. Just help a brother out, will ya?

 

It's fine, I think Maxwell was just being funny.

 

I'm not hiding anything, what do you want to know?

The oil block adapter bolts to the front of the engine at the test port.

LEt me know if you want a single ports adapter as this is mucho cheaper. $50 with the AN fitting and bolt and crush washers.

 

Sorry if I misjudged your posts.

 

$50 for the three port or $50 for the single port?

 

hmm i might just have to get that single i have an issue with cars not having oil pressure guages and i have a nice autometer sitting right here!

 

That's the reason I need to do it for my car. Anyone who revs their car past 4000 rpm needs on, in my opinion. At high RPMs, oil pressures skyrocket, oil temperatures hit 200+ degrees. Gaskets wear out and if pressure is high enough, gaskets break, pop, or leak. All this happens at high revs. If oil gets low the engine oil pressure decreases, critical components don't get oil and things start to wear fast. First things to wear out are the hydraulic lifters. Then cam bearings. If the engine is allowed to run with very low oil pressure, then you will start losing piston wrist pins, rod bearings, and finally crank support bearings.

There's so much you can tell about an engine just by looking at its oil pressure and temperature.

An engine can run cold without coolant for ten minutes, but without oil the engine won't last 30 seconds.

 

$50 for a sinle port, each aditional port is $50 extra