This is one of those 'I knew I should have checked the forum before, now what?' posts.
My alternator was on its way out, lights dimming when using more power... so I called Advanced Auto parts and who said they had one in-stock so I bought it, then installed it.

I didn't think to ask if there were more than one option for alternators that could fit my car so I ended up replacing my Valeo with a Bosch alternator, seemed the same, 6 grooves and seemingly same wire connector.

Car started immediately and drove normally that day. The next day, the car started after hesitating for a few seconds. A few miles into my ride, my ABS light when on, and battery light, spoiler engaged and its dash light was blinking. The car seemed to run normally at this time. I parked the car soon after and the windows would not roll up. The next day, the was no power to the vehicle, headlights wouldnt turn on. The day after that, there was power, and I was able to roll my windows up.

I tested the 1 year-old battery which had 11.9 volts. 11.7 with the key turned to accessories. I did not test it while running.

I pulled the battery out was headed to get another one but stopped when I thought I need to ask here first. And that's when I found threads stating there are two alternators and they are not necessarily interchangeable.

Mechanically, the bosch seems to fit fine. Unsure what else is different from the Valeo. Should I re-replaced the alternator this time with a Valeo and/or get a new battery? Or could it be something else? As always, Thanks!

 

I don't have a negative thoughts about the Bosch. I went with Valeo for a couple of reasons. One, I have a SRT-6 and it takes an 8 rib pulley. I looked at the alternators with a 6 rib pulley. The back spacing seemed different. (Bosch, Carquest, etc.) No clue if they'd work or not with a pulley swap. My original was Valeo. Valeo alternators could be found with an 8 rib pulley. The original was Valeo. I got the Valeo with an 8 rib pulley.

Check the battery. Your bad alternator may have killed it.

Les

 

The battery is testing at 11.9 volts. Is that considered dead?

 

Also, there was an unreasonable amount of corrosion on positive post.

 

Harbor Freight has a Battery and Alternator testing tool for just a few bucks, well worth it. Yes, your bad alternator may have damaged your battery. My battery died in my Jeep and I looked at the alternator. It turned out to just be a corroded connector at the alternator not allowing the battery to charge, a simple cleaning and driving a few times and all is well. Connections being metal, it is easy for corrosion to foul up the works so I always check these first! It's my opinion that this might be a solution to many of our CPS problems.

 

With most new battery replacement you should detach the battery and then groud out the + for a few seconds to clear the computers

 

Not dead exactly but not what you would call lively.
My battery failed in the garage during its hibernation period, it gave readings like your one. It was tested and declared DOA at the garage testing it. Get it tested properly and find out the truth. It should read 12.7 volts or there abouts, check the forum for accurate figures.

 

I think you're right about the CPS , mine was acting up so I unplugged it cleaned it and plugged it back up and so far so good.

 

So I replaced the battery, key fob batteries and re-soldered the RCM. The car still wont start. Have power for lights/radio etc but when I try to start it just clicks and then nothing. I can hear a fan or pump quite loud for about 5 seconds on the right side of the car while trying to start. Possibly something grounding out, skreem, or blown fuse? Whats the best way to check fuses? Thanks!

 

Still probably a bad relay, or corroded contacts on a relay in the RCM.
Take the cover off with it still connected, make a note of what relays do what when you have someone turn the key : ( the engine control relay in particular, I think the fuel pump relay is OK since you can hear that running )




RCM relays

The TC, air pump and horn relay don't matter at this point.

BTW: check all the RCM fuses with a meter.

 

I was unable to find any blown fuses but I'll check with a meter. I also get my wife to turn the key when she wakes up. What should I be looking for? Ty

 

Body control Module?

 

Doubtful, but hey, I've been wrong before.

 

You can manually engage the engine control relay with an insulated tool of some sort if it doesn't look like it is being energized.
If that makes her run, then you have an open relay coil.
Also, you can place a jumper from connector B-4 to A-3 which in effect closes the engine relay contacts.

 

relays 2,3 and 4 open when key turns.

 

No. They CLOSE when you turn the key.

 

You are describing what happens when the output from the engine control relay fails. Usually, this is fractured solder on the board where the pin to the connector going to the PTCM. It CAN be a bad relay as well.

You can reflow the pins on the board (and with a close visual inspection, you can SEE the fracture in something like 90% of cases) or replace the RCM itself. OR you can yank the RCM and mail it to DJ in Arizona and he will replace the relay and reflow the board for a small fee.

 

How did I miss this?

And you used a wire or brass brush and cleaned both the terminal and post (by loosening it and separating the two) right?

 

I used a bit of fine sand paper, have to find my brushes and cleaner. Reconnected the battery and RCM and the RCM started clicking, a similar sound to the car not starting. Im thinking of replacing the corroded negative terminal.

 

So after a new alternator, brakes and flushing (break code), battery, buying a code reader, the problem was a bad ground cable from the negative terminal. Has a bit of a rough idle but she starts everytime . I'll check tomorrow to make sure I tightened the tension on the s belt enough. Can you over tighten it?