I'm a new "Kid" on the block, having recently purchased a very low mileage 2008 roadster for my wife. Overall it's in GREAT SHAPE!

I noticed that the headlight adjustment on the drivers side is out a considerable amount between high beams and low beams. One is much higher than the other, in respect of the passenger side. It appears that there is no way to adjust the difference independently?

I had a very good look at the back of the light assembly, and noted that there seemed to be adjusters there under a plastic white cover plate, where one could put in an Allen-wrench. Turning the screw did nothing. Does anybody have any good ideas here please?

cheers,
Ted

 

You may have already 'screwed' the dog on this one (or was it already pre-screwed before you acquired the car?). Did you check and see if the bulb itself is correctly in the housing? The low and high beam bulbs are orientated 180 degrees apart from each other in their respective housings. The 'tab' on the H7 bulbs fit into a notch in the housing. When you get either one orientated correctly, the other one is 180 degrees rotated in its housing to fit correctly. One goes 'north', the other one 'south'. Other side is the same. Both high beams are one direction (not sure if tab is up or down), the lows are opposite. Once you get them seated correctly, only then can you now attempt to realign the aim. If the aiming 'screws' have separated from the adjustment 'nut', you have to get it re-seated. There are some posts about it but I have no idea how to reattach the adjustment screw it its matching 'nut' that will allow you to correctly aim the properly seated H7 bulbs in the housing. Good luck!

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I'd say "pre-screwed"......Thanks very much for the info. I did check the bulb situation, but will do a double check on orientation of the H-7's.

When I purchased the car last month, I got a CARFAX that said when it was nearly new, it was in a fender-bender on the front end somewhere. To be honest, I've looked it over VERY CAREFULLY, and can find nothing amiss at all that would indicate a repair. The headlight business may be a symptom of a kee-rash.

In the middle of the headlamp assembly at the rear, there is a long adjusting screw that seems to move both high and low simultaneously. It works OK. If I get mad at the whole thing, it may come down to removing the front bumper facia panel and pulling the assembly out for a good look.

It's a fun little car to work on. Last night I stayed up until 2:00 am installing some foot-well lighting and improving the trunk lighting with LED's. Info came in handy from this site. I'm going to do the "beeper" thing next week for the keyless door lock, or as soon as I can get a noise-maker. I'm living in a small village in Canukistan....where the Canuks come from...and there is no Radio Shack nearby.

cheers,
Ted

 

You do NOT have to remove the bumper cover to remove a headlight.

Remove the bottom 2 10mm bolts using the little door in front of the wheels, easiest if you remove the wheels.

Disconnect the wiring harness, remove the top 2 bolts, then remove the eyebrow light.

Next, remove the 2 screw adjusters from the bottom bolt tabs.
You can now manipulate it out through the opening.

When reinstalling, first get it in, then insert the eyebrow light, then start the bottom screw adjusters.
Secure the light with the top 2 bolts, them screw in the bottom 2 adjusters until they just touch the body bracket.
Now put the 2 lower bolts back in and tighten. Connect the harness and you are done.

 

I tried that....got the assembly loose, but it would not pull out through the opening. Close....but no cigar. Spent an hour manipulating it around in every which direction. Ended up putting it back in place.
cheers,
Ted

 

Did you remove the 2 hollow screw adjusters ?
( And, I forgot to add, remove the bumper cover bolt by the headlight, you can pull the cover out a bit to get just a tad more room.

 

Yes, I got the bottom bolts out OK. I'll have a look for the bumper cover bolt and see if that would make a difference. I don't remember seeing one, but will do a double check!

Thanks very much for the info.
Ted

 

I'm not talking about the bottom bolts, I am talking about removing the hollow body spacing adjusters that the bottom bolts go through.

 

I think we are both on the same track here. I had the two bottom hollow adjuster bolts out, and the whole headlight assembly loose. Those bolts are hard to get at, and harder to get back in. I assume that the "adjustment" is there to take up manufacturing tolerances?

Anyway, I was unable to get the assembly out through the opening. It would not go despite lots of effort on my part. I may try again tonight or tomorrow.

It would be a lot easier if the bulbs are the culprit. I'm going to check on them first.....

cheers,
Ted

 

Yes, we are on the same page, yes they are for manufacturing tolerances.
I admit it's a very tight fit, but it can be done.
If you want a real challenge, try a headlight in a Chrysler Concorde !

 

I had the pleasure of opening up my front end when I first brought the girl home back in 2009 (or was it 2010). I upgraded to the Sylvania Silver Star H7's and when I tried to install them, could not. So, with the service manual and a set of tools, the ONLY way I got the headlight assemblies out to easily install the H7's, was to completely remove the front facia. No matter how much I loosened the facia, and even before loosening the facia (with all the headlight assembly attachment points removes) the dang things would not come out. That said, and me not wanting to damage/scratch them, is why I took the facia off. It was SUPER easy because the car was new and no rust/accumulated dirt, or any debris, hindered its mounting points quick and easy removal. Our son helped hold it up/protected it from any movement until placing it on the carpet in the home. Some of the front ends individual assemblies allow their easy removal (the headlight assemblies), but in my case the original assembly of the car completely prevented easy removal of the headlight assemblies. Have fun, I did!

.

 

I have had the headlights out a few times thou its been a while. Remove the grille first, then you can loosen the bumper cover bolt at that same location. Slide a piece of wood to hold the bumper cover out a bit and the headlight will work out.

James

 

The first order of business for me was to jack up the front end of the car. Hmmm...where to put my hydraulic jack? Using the forward jacking pad also raised the back wheel, and I really wanted the front end only. The "book" says not to jack under the fwd control arms, but a short piece of 2X6 seemed to afford enough protection between the jack and arm. Next was where to put the jack stands? I picked the most solid and secure looking location on the control arms and supported there. So now the front end is fully up. Hopefully the control arms are strong enough to support the weight.

One of the early things I did last month, was to fill the windshield washer reservoir, and almost immediately blue juice flowed out onto my epoxied garage floor. The notations in the forum about this problem had me worried that the reservoir had split. So yesterday, it was an easy matter to drop the right side inner fender skirt and have a look-see. As it turned out, the fill pipe connections were designed by a moron, and so loose as to allow fluid to leak. The reservoir was OK. I pulled out the fill pipes, and applied a liberal amount of sealant to the connections, then re-installed. Will be testing my repair later today.

I've got to shovel out the driveway this morning first, as we had nearly a foot of snow since yesterday. Next is the headlight removal. Thanks to all for your kind info. I'll let you know how I'm making out. Do the Sylvania Silver Star lamps make a big difference? Is there anything better on the market at an affordable cost?
cheers,
Ted

 

The windshield washer tank filler was designed that way on purpose.
The intention ( in the owners manual ) is to add one gallon when the dash light comes on.
This brings the level up to where the 'loose' joint is not exposed to fluid, therefore no leaky.





Many ( including me ) have installed HIDS ( Morimoto's from The Retrofit Source are generally agreed to be the best, although some swear by the cheaper eBay ones ) in the low beams.
The Silver Stars are fine for the high beams.

 

Thanks for the info on the W.W. fluid level. I usually like to keep things topped up...and am unwilling to let it go to near empty. The X-Fire Roadsta won't likely get used in the winter time, but it's easily possible to use a lot of W.W. juice on a nasty ride on the highway to Toronto. (100 miles?) I'm headed there tomorrow and the forecast isn't good.....but will be in the Grocery Getter car, a Hyundai Genesis. (Very fine automobile)
The present headlight lamps seem to be quite good on the X-Fire, as long as I can get the driver's side ones correctly aligned. Off to the garage......and pulling out the headlamp assembly.
cheers my friends,
Ted

 

A foot of snow? Only crazy people live in Penatang.
Oh! I guess that's true.

 

Guilty as charged! Very nearby, maybe 1/2 mile away is the facility for the Criminally Insane.

It appears that you're even older than me. HAH! Where are you hiding out? I've noted several posts on the forum from guys here in Canukistan. (Where Canuks come from)

Ted

 

I'm trying to add a photo to my thread...in my "Photo Album", there is a photo called "IN MY GARAGE". How can I add it into these discussions, or is it worthwhile? In the future I may want to post photos of work done to the car. Just to the right of the box here, there is another box that says "MY PICS"....but when I click on it, it's empty.
Ted

 

Click on the yellow icon on the new message, reply to thread page or what ever and you get to select where you want the picture to come from, a URL, your computer or your my album on this site. Easy peasy.

I'm down Airport Road in Caledon East, not too far from you just 140 k.
CLICK