Engine Performance Problem
About half the time my engine has full horsepower, which is to say that it is producing its full 330 horsepower.
The other half of the time the engine is producing perhaps 30% to 40% of that horsepower. When it changes it is pretty much random. It can and does happen on the highway driving at normal speeds.
I have no idea what is causing this.
Could it be an Engine Control Module problem? A fuel pressure problem? Could the mass airflow sensor not be working? Could it be a vacuum leak?
My car is a 2005 convertible SRT6.
Thanks
The other half of the time the engine is producing perhaps 30% to 40% of that horsepower. When it changes it is pretty much random. It can and does happen on the highway driving at normal speeds.
I have no idea what is causing this.
Could it be an Engine Control Module problem? A fuel pressure problem? Could the mass airflow sensor not be working? Could it be a vacuum leak?
My car is a 2005 convertible SRT6.
Thanks
About half the time my engine has full horsepower, which is to say that it is producing its full 330 horsepower.
The other half of the time the engine is producing perhaps 30% to 40% of that horsepower. When it changes it is pretty much random. It can and does happen on the highway driving at normal speeds.
I have no idea what is causing this.
Could it be an Engine Control Module problem? A fuel pressure problem? Could the mass airflow sensor not be working? Could it be a vacuum leak?
My car is a 2005 convertible SRT6.
Thanks
The other half of the time the engine is producing perhaps 30% to 40% of that horsepower. When it changes it is pretty much random. It can and does happen on the highway driving at normal speeds.
I have no idea what is causing this.
Could it be an Engine Control Module problem? A fuel pressure problem? Could the mass airflow sensor not be working? Could it be a vacuum leak?
My car is a 2005 convertible SRT6.
Thanks
About half the time my engine has full horsepower, which is to say that it is producing its full 330 horsepower.
The other half of the time the engine is producing perhaps 30% to 40% of that horsepower. When it changes it is pretty much random. It can and does happen on the highway driving at normal speeds.
I have no idea what is causing this.
Could it be an Engine Control Module problem? A fuel pressure problem? Could the mass airflow sensor not be working? Could it be a vacuum leak?
My car is a 2005 convertible SRT6.
Thanks
The other half of the time the engine is producing perhaps 30% to 40% of that horsepower. When it changes it is pretty much random. It can and does happen on the highway driving at normal speeds.
I have no idea what is causing this.
Could it be an Engine Control Module problem? A fuel pressure problem? Could the mass airflow sensor not be working? Could it be a vacuum leak?
My car is a 2005 convertible SRT6.
Thanks
CLICK
I did a search. So if the intercooler pump is not working (to cool the air going through it) then the superchargers clutch will not engage the supercharger? The solution is a new pump? Do I have this right? Thank's.
Last edited by David M; Jul 6, 2018 at 12:30 PM.
Problem: After driving until normal operating temperature (about 15-20 min), the Supercharger shuts down until I come to a complete stop, then it shuts down intermittently after that. There is no OBD scanner code being displayed to explain this problem.
I purchased an 05roadster srt-6 34,000mi in Nov. 2017. I had a Mercedes repair shop perform a thorough check and report any problems. At that time I was told the Intercooler motor was defective. I bought a new bosh Inter Cooler from Needs Wings web site and had it installed. It didn’t fix the above problem $350.00 including installation.
After following the threads on Crossfireforum there are multiple fixes explained from NeedsWings Air Intake Temperature sensor @27.95, Different I.C. pumps $120.00 and up, NeedsWings Intercooler Fluid Isolating Kit $59.95, NeedsWings Supercooler Radiator $449.95 , NeedsWings DEI Chill Charger fluid $10.95, NeedsWings Killer Chiller IC Kit $729.95.
None of the above includes installation.
It seems to me, to be a very expensive problem that no-one has the “exact” answer to.
Right now I’m thinking that the Air temp. is the problem with the ultimate fix being the Killer Chiller.
I purchased an 05roadster srt-6 34,000mi in Nov. 2017. I had a Mercedes repair shop perform a thorough check and report any problems. At that time I was told the Intercooler motor was defective. I bought a new bosh Inter Cooler from Needs Wings web site and had it installed. It didn’t fix the above problem $350.00 including installation.
After following the threads on Crossfireforum there are multiple fixes explained from NeedsWings Air Intake Temperature sensor @27.95, Different I.C. pumps $120.00 and up, NeedsWings Intercooler Fluid Isolating Kit $59.95, NeedsWings Supercooler Radiator $449.95 , NeedsWings DEI Chill Charger fluid $10.95, NeedsWings Killer Chiller IC Kit $729.95.
None of the above includes installation.
It seems to me, to be a very expensive problem that no-one has the “exact” answer to.
Right now I’m thinking that the Air temp. is the problem with the ultimate fix being the Killer Chiller.
I was hoping to avoid fixing the problem by quessing at and then installing parts which I may not have needed to replace in the first place because those parts already worked. That can get unnecessarily expensive.
Are there any other ideas? Thanks.
Are there any other ideas? Thanks.
Last edited by David M; Jul 6, 2018 at 01:43 PM.
After following the threads on Crossfireforum there are multiple fixes .........
NeedsWings Intercooler Fluid Isolating Kit $59.95, NeedsWings Supercooler Radiator $449.95 , NeedsWings DEI Chill Charger fluid $10.95, NeedsWings Killer Chiller IC Kit $729.95.
None of the above includes installation.
It seems to me, to be a very expensive problem that no-one has the “exact” answer to.
Here is the IC pump, this PDF shows how to install a Johnson pump, that is not in favor these days and you should use a new Bosch pump the last figures are 10.
CLICK
CLICK
Ready to install the new pump
cardboard covered vice grips
only lost this much fluid
Last edited by KDW4Him; Jul 6, 2018 at 08:57 PM.
I just started with the same symptoms you describe. Especially on a 90 degree day. There is post after post of people saying at about 30K miles the OEM pump gives up and a new one is needed. I just turned 31K miles. Even though I am placing a $120 guess at it by getting a new pump the odds are still in my favor by all of the other SRT's who have needed pumps at 30K.
I replaced mine when I got the car rather than waiting for it to go.


