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The 30,000 mile life span is news to me, they went bad after various miles. Many never got close to 30,000 as. Badly designed part caused the problems.
I replaced mine when I got the car rather than waiting for it to go.
With five odd thousand cars made even 50 failures around 30,000 does not make a benchmark figure. Many failed before that number, many after and many are still running no doubt. That pump was made with a weakness in the impeller, some worse than others it would seem.
It is all about putting the problems in perspective. On here and on FB you read about failures, not many have written that their xxxx was still working after x miles.
Last edited by onehundred80; 07-07-2018 at 10:28 AM.
On my 05 srt-6, I replaced the Air Intake Temperature sensor and the IC from Needs Wings. Afterward I still have the same issue with loss of power after about 20 minutes of driving.
Is there something else that I can look at to resolve the problem.
Additionally I have read where some have used c-clamps or vise grips with something soft in the jaws to clamp the hoses off to keep fluid in while doing the change. I plan on trying that and will report how it goes. EDIT, this method works fine.
Ready to install the new pump
Whatever clamps you use the jaws should be parallel when clamped, pipe clamps are the best. Whatever is used you do it want them slipping off with the pump removed.
With 70 odd thousand cars made even a thousand failures around 30,000 does not make a benchmark figure. Many failed before that number and many after.
It is all about putting the problems in perspective. On here and on FB you read about failures, not many have written that their xxxx was still working after x miles.
OK, but the point IS failures. Failure of the pump. We are talking only the SRT6 model so the number made is what? 4000ish?
And I made the comment from a diagnostic point of view. When several other SRT6 owners report intermittent low power symptoms and the fix was the pump and the mileage was 30K or so I would not post the recommendation to change the intake air temp sensor. I wouldn't recommend changing the intercooler. I wouldn't recommend changing the SC clutch. I would go with the common reported problem, the pump.
Equate this Dx mindset of going to a medical doctor for a cough. He doesn't test you for throat cancer first, he goes with the most common cause for the cough. IE the most common post I read for int. low power on an SRT6, the pump.
On my 05 srt-6, I replaced the Air Intake Temperature sensor and the IC from Needs Wings. Afterward I still have the same issue with loss of power after about 20 minutes of driving.
Is there something else that I can look at to resolve the problem.
OK, but the point IS failures. Failure of the pump. We are talking only the SRT6 model so the number made is what? 4000ish?
And I made the comment from a diagnostic point of view. When several other SRT6 owners report intermittent low power symptoms and the fix was the pump and the mileage was 30K or so I would not post the recommendation to change the intake air temp sensor. I wouldn't recommend changing the intercooler. I wouldn't recommend changing the SC clutch. I would go with the common reported problem, the pump.
Equate this Dx mindset of going to a medical doctor for a cough. He doesn't test you for throat cancer first, he goes with the most common cause for the cough. IE the most common post I read for int. low power on an SRT6, the pump.
Reliability of 70K + cars is a different thread.
I corrected my numbers before you posted.
I am making the point that 30,000 miles is not a benchmark figure.
Last edited by onehundred80; 07-07-2018 at 11:53 AM.
On my 05 srt-6, I replaced the Air Intake Temperature sensor and the IC from Needs Wings. Afterward I still have the same issue with loss of power after about 20 minutes of driving.
Is there something else that I can look at to resolve the problem.
If this were my car and since I am an electronics guy who has a volt/ohm meter I would start at the pump. Is the fuse good? Do I have power to the pump after the engine hits 1300 RPM? Can I feel the pump running? Open the coolant isolation valves if installed to remove any air trapped to the pump. What model pump was installed?
Next, if you replaced the temp sensor, I would compare the resistance of the old sensor to the new sensor. Are they the same? If different which one is correct?
Since we know the supercharger is working the first 20 minutes we know the signals to the clutch and the clutch are good. Hook up an OBDII device that can measure live data to monitor the temp of the intercooler air. At what temp. does the supercharger drop out?
I had the same problem and changed the pump. It did fix problem. I found work around on the forum where you wire the pump through the fuse box to turn the pump on when the ignition is on. Fixed my problem. Must have been a bad heat sensor.
I had the same problem and changed the pump. It did fix problem. I found work around on the forum where you wire the pump through the fuse box to turn the pump on when the ignition is on. Fixed my problem. Must have been a bad heat sensor.
I would imagine that the secondary coolant pump to keep the intercooler coll is there for a good reason. So that you are not putting hot air through the intercooler and then pumping hot air into the cylinders when accelerating hard, causing predetonation. Am I wrong about this? I would guess it is not a good idea to bypass what the heat sensor is telling the ECM.
By running the intercool pump continuously should keep the supercharger cooler than running intermittently based on sensor. It looks like the only downside would be wearing out the pump quicker.
I found after changing out the pump I had the same issue with the supercharger cutting out. I found the modification in the forum where the fuse is bypassed to run the pump at all times when the ignition switch is turn on. Must have been some sensor malfunction.
I ordered the secondary coolant pump and took my car to my mechanic. He said it was not the secondary pump (that was fine according to him) but the regular coolant pump that had a leak Waiting to get my car back.
I will report on whether or not that cured the problem of the car not having 100% of its horsepower available 100% of the time.
This prior post sounds like the solution to the supercharger shutting down. I have had the radiator flushed and replaced the water pump and the intercooler pump, and I know they didn't do the below procedure.
Please read the entire thread of the below and let me know what you think.
Where did you access the pump? I don't see it. I have the pump now. In the picture in post 16 it looks like inside the wheel well. Or is it under the car? (by jacking it up)
Re: Engine Performance Problem
