If you install a new HE or pump, and don't clamp off hoses, you'll lose a lot of coolant.

I've read on here that you just fill up the resovoir and go, and possibly fill more later, and the system will self-bleed the air. But if you look at the system, there is no hose that goes straight up to the resovoir to let the air out. The hose that goes up to the resovoir dips steeply down before finally going up to the resovoir. How can air be self-bled/burped out of a system with the only escape path (that I can see) not going straight up?

Just curious.... In case I need to bleed after doing my pump.

 

While that would presumptively seem to be the case, it is, in fact, not so in an OE setup.

The intercooler itself is a naturally occurring airlock. Merely by its location between the cylinder banks and the hoses feeding to/from it, air pockets will remain in the system unless it’s properly purged of its residual air. Neglecting to properly evacuate the fluid circuit will invariably result in higher IATs. Don't ask how I know.

OE intercooler fluid path, with yellow representing the air vent:

ICFliudCircuit.gif

AMG’s specified procedure is to activate the intercooler pump via STAR Diagnostics while gently “pinching off” the (red) return hose just above the ‘T’ junction. Direct the vent hose to a suitable container in order to contain the discharge until only fluid (sans air) is observed. Most simply energized the pump with 12 volts DC from an external source to get it spinning.

Shown on an E55:

airbleedweb.jpg
photo credit BrianS

 

Wow, now that is some good frickin info. Thanks.

 

In the course of events leading to my quest for a better cooling system(s) I have drained the coolant several dozen times over the summer.

All above is true, however I have added a relay and a switch to power on my pump at will when the motor is off. I use it to do some testing but have found that the pump runs all the time you are driving, pretty much anyway. Engine on pump on but you want to be wary of the belts and fan start up, so use the clamp below and save a 911 call.

To bleed the system you partially pinch the return hose as described and drive around a bit and you will purge the air pronto. Just driving will do very little as bubbles will stream forth for a long time.

How do you pinch the hose and drive around with out getting hurt?

TA DAAA, get a hose clamp, open it and slip it around the 5/8" rubber hose below (lower ) than the wye at the i/c tubing as shown(aluminum) and tighten it slightly (pinch hose about1/3 closed - 2/3 normal diameter). THis will add enough restriction to raise the pressure in the hose and force coolant to flow into the recovery tank purging the air more rapidly.

Id do this with the cap loose as it will be cool enough to not need it and the lower pressure will make the bubbles more bouyant (bigger). Take a gentle spin down the street or idle for a while and return the i/c pump will be fully on, doing the purge. Stay out of the moving pieces and parts please.

In checking the flow I added the additional return hose to see the progress of this process (photo attached). I could monitor the purge by noting the clarity of the liquid stream. With my 2 square foot h/e it can take a bit of time.

Remember to loosen the clamp, you can leave it on for next time and with this approach you dont need to have the STAR gizmos.

Enjoy;Woody

 

So I installed the NW coolant separation and (without separating the system yet) after warmup the coolant indicator on the car is dead center between high and low. It previously was at maybe 3/8 - 7/16, but definitely below halfway.

So I looked around and came upon this (old) thread. I did not purge the system, since I wasn't sure how to.

If I understand correctly, I pinch (put a clamp on slightly) the T line just to the right of the T in the diagram shown in the second post? If I let the car idle while I do this, how long should it take, and how would I know when it's done?

I also am not sure I really understand why this works?

 

bill with the needswings setup you open the valves and drive the car until operating temps are reached. then after checking and filling as needed you cut the valves off to separate the system. i would drive the car for a couple days and recheck until your sure its clean of air, then close the valves

 

I know the NW directions said to do that.

But that's in opposition to what this thread was about ... this thread is saying that if I just drove around, the air never gets out of the system by itself.

 

i agree with what was originally said here bill, you need to open a bypass so that the air can get out. run the motor at idle open up the return line and let it flow out until it is a solid stream, then close it back up and refill the reservoir.

 

deleted (didn't understand the drawing/picture)

 

This confuses the hell out of me. Please someone give a step by step to this issue.

Thanks alot,
Nick

 

Looking at post #2, install a clamp as Woody says on the RED return line to the LEFT of the little YELLOW hose.

Then tighten the clamp to restrict flow(increase pressure) coming from the IC. (this forces the more water and the air through the yellow line into the surge tank)

Run engine, or drive mildly, for maybe 10 - 15 minutes. If you were to install a clear line in place of the yellow line you would be able to see the air passing and be able to tell when it is just water.

Have fun....

Edit: DONT forget to release the clamp when your done...

 

Well, I too wondered how this worked and finally decided to follow instructions. Wahla! It worked. I would imagine with a supercooler that once the air is forced out of the "aftercooler" under the supercharger, that any air would rise to the top in the supercooler and not be a problem.

Les

 

deleted (didn't understand the picture/drawing)

 

The idea is to force the air out of the aftercooler under the supercharger. It's the high point in the system so it needs forcing. Restricting the flow on the return hose below the yellow hose ups the line pressure entering and helps push out any air that may be trapped. In the stock system the air will flow through the yellow line in the picture into the overflow. Or you can disconnect the line like in the E55 picture and bleed it into a container.

Les

 

Could you please post a picture showing what/where the yellow line is in reality?

 

Ok, so I tried to highlight on a real picture where the red, yellow, and blue lines are. Photo is from SRT6NTulsa (first one I found in the gallery)

ORIGINAL PICTURE:


HIGHLIGHTED PICTURE:



Hope that helps visualize it on a M112K Engine.

Both the Red and Blue highlighted coolant lines flow under the supercharger (out of view) and into the intercooler. They are to/from coolant lines. The Red is the return line coming back from the intercooler with excess pressure causing coolant to flow into the yellow highlighted line and into the reservoir...

EDIT: I am 95% sure of my explaination...please correct me if I am wrong.

 

Thanks for posting the pictures, I was trying to draw on mine but my program is limited.

The red line is the return line. Restrict it a little and some water and any air will flow through the smaller hose (yellow) into the overflow. On the underside of the overflow container is a hose that connects to the heat exchanger circuit so you don't have to worry about it going dry. It will replenish itself from the bottom of the overflow if necessary. (stock setup)

Les

 

Ah, thanks for the picture ZAHANMA, I think I will go back and edit my posts then so as not to confuse anyone else looking at this thread later.

 

Hi all,
Forgive me but I am unaware of forum etiquette.
Not sure if I should be resurrecting old posts (like this one) that somewhat covers my issue or should i be starting a new thread.
I plan to change my intercooler pump (IC) very soon but just wanted to get the procedure right in my head before i start.
I understand the air needs to be purged out after installation but unsure how i am going to power the IC pump from an external source via those tiny little connection pins on the IC pump. Im thinking there's a good chance i might short circuit and possibly damage the new IC pump.
I am wondering if it would be ok to just reinstall the IC pump and just run the car gently for a few kilometers (miles)? Would it self purge via the yellow tube (as shown in the diagram at the start of this thread)?