Ok the car is getting an oil cooler put in, but I want some input from the community.

We have two options:

1. Incorporating fittings into a modified Oil Filter Cap keeping a relatively stock look. Benefits are lower cost and ease of installation. Downfalls are that it looks somewhat homemade.

2. Fully machined Oil Cooler hookup to replace Oil Filter Cap. This will work in much the same way as a Sandwich Adapter, but will require a remote mount filter to work properly.

We already have the cooler picked out and placed, it's about 10X the size of the SRT6 one.

So let u know which way you want to go so we can get this finished.

 

I'm currently feeding the cooled oil back into the valve cover on the driver side, but I would still like to get the sandwich adapter plate to feed the low pressure oil back in the motor, if it becomes available

 

Agreed, wouldn't the sandwich adapter be more beneficial... what's the cost difference for the kits? And 10x the SRT one? That seems like over kill… however I don’t track much so I wouldn’t know.

 

Well the SRT one is like 3X5, which is nothing. A typical oil cooler is about 10x in square inches.

Bluestorm, are you running your oil through a cooler?

 

Is either option going to be thermostatically controlled?

Also, do these cars run hot? Since there's no oil temp gauge in these cars, it's hard to tell if there is a need for one from my personal perspective. The other car I have has an oil temp gauge and regularly runs at about 230F. On the track I've seen temps as high as 290F, which tells me that an oil cooler is definitely needed.

Thanks for the education!

 

Yes it will be thermostatically controlled. I would like to get the temps in the 180-200 range. Right now during daily driving it's in the 230-240 range but after a few hard ones it gets 260+ and is really hot. These engines run extremely hot to begin with.

 

Just thinking out loud here, but if the car was designed to operate at say between 230-250F, wouldn't adding an oil cooler be detrimental to the car? If the oil isn't allowed to reach operating temps, I would think that could be bad over the long run. The only exception being someone who either lives in very warm climates or does a lot track day events? I am definitely considering one for my other car, for example, as it also runs hot. But it also get run hard as well.

Trust me, I'm not necessarily calling you out on this, even though I suppose it seems that way. I've run into the same issue with my other car where they have oil coolers set to keep the car at about 200F as well--so it's really a general question for the folks who develop these systems for cars that are designed to run a little hotter than average. I would think it would be better for the health of the engine to prevent the large changes in oil temp that are seen in cars driven in hot climates or driven hard when it's warm out. So for example, maybe finding a way to keep oil temps between 220-230, which represents the oil temp that was engine was engineered to run propely at (I think the fact that we should all be using high quality synthetic in our cars is also a consideration), and at the same time preventing the oil from spiking to 260F, for example.

Again, I'm just thinking out loud here and since it sounds like you are currently in the process of developing this product, maybe it would be a worthwhile discussion to have. I hope I didn't come off as offensive as that wasn't my intention.

 

The idle operating temp for oil is in the 180-200 range. As it goes past that it starts to break down. Our cars run very hot. MB tried to offset this in the N/A with the 8.5 qts, which is reidiculously high for such a small engine with low HP. In the SRT they have a very tiny oil cooler that probably drops the temps 10-20 degrees or so.

This mod will not be needed for a daily driven car, but if you track it it can really help. Cooler oil not only prolongs engine life by reducing wear but it will help keep underhood temps down and thus reduce heat soak on the rest of the engine.

We have developed 4 parts thus far to aid in cooling these engines down. If we plan on adding more power, prolonging life and reducing heat are necessary steps.

 

Yes, I scored a large Earl's Plumbing oil cooler, it even has brushless fans for cooling the oil durring idle conditions. I just haven't had time to mount the temp sensor yet.

I need to do a long drive and monitor the timing again, as I my theory was this mod will reduce the oil temp from the piston sprayers and thus putting less heat into the pistons, causeing the timing to be reduced. we'll see what I find out this week end. I'm hopeing to see a big drop in the Temp with fans a blowin"

 

Where did you tap into for the feed line? Return line?

 

oil feed line is from the test port on the front of the motor, there is a restrictor built into the gasket so if you ned more oil flow you can enlarge the restrictor if need be, but I'm leaving it as is, don't want to starve the bearing for oil or reduce oil pressure.

the return line feeds directly into the valve cover. just tapped the maganesium cover with a 1/4" pipe thread, but be carful as it is a very weak metal and can crack if you stress it...

 

What do you guys think of mounting my oil pressure sensor on the oil pan, bottom or top half? My other options are the TVT location on the oil filter housing or trying to use the factory port that Bluestorm is using for his oil cooler. I like the factory port as best but havent looked at it enough to see what I would have to do to mount the 1/8NPT fitting and clearance from belts. Appreciate all input.

MikeR

TVT...not trying to thread jack you...this is just the ONLY thread where anyone will talk about oil.

 

If I was going to do it over again I would have pulled the oil pan and installed about 3 oil return lines in the case, as this could be used for many accessories such as a Turbo drain port, oil aux cooler drain and aux filtration drainage port.

 

The oil pan is not pressurized enough to get you an accurate reading for oil pressure.

We decided to tap the pan for temp and the return line and are using the test port for our feed line. Seems easy enough so far.

I think I've discarded the sandwich adapter idea and will probably just sell a cut with fittings, hose, and the cooler. I don't see too many people really going for this.

I'm just patiently waiting for all these pieces to get in so I can move my car out of precious shop space.

 

Some pics of the cooler.

It's a 6 pass Perma-Cool.

 

I think the Earls cooler is a little more efficient, here's my unit.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueStorm

I think the Earls cooler is a little more efficient, here's my unit.

+1

The stacked plate style of coolers are far more effective at dissipating heat than a tube and fin. Less restrictive too

http://www.holley.com/types/Temp-A-Cure%20Oil%20Coolers.asp

Their local retailer is not far from us. They’ve all the bits one could conceivably need for a sanitary installation.

Industrial Liquidators
14611 HAWTHORNE BLVD
LAWNDALE , CA 90260
PHONE: (310) 644-2252

 

Perma Cool doesn't use a conventional tube and fin.

It's all hooked up and no leaks.

Everything works well, and the car now has 1.5 qts extra oil. I switched over to Royal Purple 5W20, as the 0w40 is just way too thin.

 

Dang 10 qts of oil.. in a V6! How much has the temp dropped?

 

How is 20 weight oil thicker than 40 weight?

I'd like to see some pics of the cooler installed on the car if possible. Good job getting it all together!