Hi Guys. I have an '05 Limited Conv that won't start unless I put the key in ignition in the ON position and (2nd) key in the drivers side door in the lock position and hold it there for approx thirty seconds and then the ECM? RCM? Skreem? clicks and RESETS( something re security?) Then I turn the ignition switch to the off position( key in door is out) and then to the start position and the car will start. Once in awhile I need to take the battery cables off and then go through the same sequence, and whala, it starts!

No check engine or codes show!
Battery checks!
Key FOB's are working( lock, unlock, start etc)!
Checked fuses!

It's seems to be something that is RESETTING! Dreading having to take it to a dealer!

What is it?

Thanks!
bahston

 

Never heard of ANYONE putting the key in the door to get it to start!!!!
But if the security system was confused, I could see where that would, maybe, help.

The ONLY thing I would say is that if the battery is over 3 years old, put a new battery in it and see if it clears up after a few of your start-with-two-keys tricks.
These cars can do funny stuff if the battery has a shorted cell, etc.

Anyone else wanna chime in?

 

Where is the click coming from? Be specific!

 

I'll be more specific later bc I don't have another person with me so I can be under the hood. But it's definitely directly located near the battery area; maybe the ECM?
Thanks...

 

We switched out batteries and same thing happened. But we were early in the diagnostics at that point and I don't think we did the sequence ( see above) w the test battery. I'll hope down to AutoZone and maybe try a new battery.

I heard about a 30 count hard "reset" and then the ECM dies. Would this be directly related to my "resetting" issue as above?

 

I have to ask how you came up with the idea of the key in the door lock? It just does not make any sense to me how or why someone would come up with that idea.

 

Dr. House come to mind? From a very wise mechanic. He thinks it may be the Skreem( key?) module. He doesn't have the scanner etc to narrow it down; nor does he have the dealer security procedure, if needed, to do a reset of the security system...something to that affect.

Any advice?

 

Well, first of all, "battery checks" means NOTHING to me. If the battery is old, replace the damn thing. PERIOD. Or......... read thru the posts here and you will see the HELL a "tests good" battery has caused people. Why will people NOT LISTEN when we tell them this? And what is old? Four years is old to me -I have NO idea what you or the previous owner has done - ever leave lights on and drain the battery? Do you sit in parking lots listening to the radio with hte engine off a lot? etc...


The key in the door REALLY throws me off, too. But you are there, with the car - I am not!


But I AM on vacation, so I'm off here for the day...

 

CHIME..

Mystery no start.. could that relay be sticking or "sluggish"..?

Key in door placebo effect..

 

Subscribing to this oddity...

 

And the "oddity" ends with no ending..

 

Yea, this was one for the BOOKS! If the OP guy is still here, we'd really like to know what you found, or how it's going.

We might all learn from this one...

 

Yesterday afternoon my 2005 Crossfire LTD roadster sounded a little sad when I started it - maybe an extra second to start. Then as I drove home I noticed the wing was up and going down. (I live 1.1 miles from work and had not driven over 35 mph). Then this morning my car sounded even worse. It took a little longer (3 seconds maybe) but started right up. The wing was going up as I backed out of the garage. I had to use the switch to lower the wing. Now at lunch the starter only grunts a little with each turn of the key and won't turn over enough to start. Dash board was all lit up as normal (odometer, clock and idiot lights) and door locks worked fine to relock the car. Those things don't take much battery, but when the original battery went bad, I didn't have any lights - it was totally dead. Even though the battery is only about 14 months old, my first guess without having a chance to get it tested is the battery. My question is - Could it be my RCM or has the battery already given up? I hope I don't get blasted for this question but it's a few more hours before I get off work and chances are pretty good that Advance Auto won't have a replacement battery. What do you guys think?

 

I answered in your other post.

 

I'm going to guess your standard shift..
My automatic (with autocrank) was taking that "extra second" or so to fire off when cranking.. for about a week. Spoiler already up over abs issues.. fired off one morning for work-40 minute drive no headlights needed.... stopped for breakfast run.. then just got one click.. autostart relay.. jumped and got to work and replaced battery at lunch (after another jump).. problem solved.

 

I also have the automatic and yes it was taking an "extra second or two" to fire when cranking. After jumping it this afternoon, I took it to Advance Auto where I had bought the battery. They had me turn it off so they could check the battery. They said it was a little low on charge but the battery was good. He then asked me start it up so that he could check the alternator. It started instantaneously. He also said that the alternator checked good. He said there must be something draining the battery. Can the RCM problem cause the battery to drain?

 

Well, if you had the battery out, I was going to say, ground. Cables need cleaned from time to time. They may lose ground. May look good, but they aren't. Make sure all the connections are clean. Doesn't hurt to just look at all the fuses, moving them around to make sure they are making a good connection as well. These little cars are very sensitive to voltage/amp spikes. Do the same for the RCM as well...

 

Sorry for the late reply.

It was the Skreem module!! (as we suspected this was the culprit;see above thread(s)). It wouldn't allow us to go through the cycle( see original thread) any longer and had it towed( Allstate paid! Took it to the local Chrysler dealership; $600 total, parts and labor. They said it took four hours four labor; one(1) for diagnostics and three(3) for actual replacement. Curious: Anyone replace A Skreem module before, and how long did it take?

Thanks!

 

Seems there was another thread where the skreem was replaced and right at the $600 dollar mark. Probably one of the cheapest "dealer required" fixes there is.. LOL

 

I've discovered that I only have a problem if I use the recirculate air button after turning off the car. I find it strange that I'm just now having the problem since I've been using that feature when running the AC for five or six summers. My brother thinks I need to drive further to recharge the battery or buy a battery tender. I drive the car every day but for short distances. With a good battery and good alternator how far should one have to drive (no more than 40 mph) to recharge the battery after starting it when using the radio, AC and recirculate feature?