Today I did the rear glass repair on my 2005 roadster. Not what I would call easy but with some patience it can be done. I have a friend who works for safelite and he told me how they do it. So here it is.
- Get some 3M window weld and a good caulk gun. You will also need the 3M primer and a brush I got both mine at oreillys.





- My back window was only partially delaminated so I had to use a knife to cut the window out of the top. Just go slow and make small steady cuts into the adhesive that is still holding.

- Once the window is out you need to scrape any loose adhesive off the top. Then take a 320 grit sand paper and rough up what is left of the adhesive on the top then clean it up with some glass cleaner. Next scrape all the adhesive off the glass with a razor blade. I used a handle that holds the straight blades so I have better control. Get a nice stable bench and put a couple towels folded up in the center so you can lay the glass on it and work without the edges that have the defroster tabs touching the table. I found out the hard way and had to resolder one tab back on. Once the blade stops removing the hard adhesive quickly, put a new blade in. I went through 4 of them. This old adhesive kills blades fast. Then clean the nice bare glass where the new adhesive will go.

- now go ahead and put your top down and let go of the button when the rear part of the convertible top folds upwards. Now you have good access to apply the 3M primer. Cover the rear deck and any part of the top that might get spilled on and apply liberally to the area where the old adhesive is. Let dry and then put the top back into the complete up position and lock it down.

- next, get yourself some good quality suction cups with handles you can put half a broom stick through. Oh ya, get a broomstick and cut it in half. I would get the pump up kind so you can keep suction on the the glass if they start letting go, just pump them up again. Now get a bunch of towels. Put them on the top, just forward of the rear brace so as to not put tension on the covertible material that is to be bonded to the glass, and the trunk in two positions to brace the sticks holding the cups attached to the glass that will pull the glass up into the convertible top. Clean the glass with window cleaner and razor blade the glass so the suction cups bond securely. Make sure your top is up and locked to the windshield frame as to provide the highest tension position the glass will be in. So attach the cups, insert the sticks and brace everything up so as to get the glass touching the top, do not pull it up too far or the top will stretch out over the edges of the glass. Do a bunch of trial and error until you are satisfied with the placement of the glass under the top. It should fit snugly where you can let go of it and it will stay put. On my car the top did not completely cover the black edges of the glass. I think I have about 2/3 of it covered. This window weld is tough stuff so it should be no problem.

- now comes the fun part. Load your gun with the window weld and cut the cap so it will lay a 1/8" bead. Now stick the tip between the top and the glass and go all the way around the window so the bead is laying at the outer edge of the glass. Once you have completed this you can go around the glass pushing the top material down onto the glass. You should do this lightly and it will take a few times to get the top to lay flat onto the glass, just take your time. Then take some towels and put them under the glass inside just for a safety net in case one of your suction cups lets loose while the window weld is drying. Don't jam them in, just enough to support the glass, not pushing hard on it. Keep an eye on it in the drying process to make sure the cups are still holding and the glass is still where attached to the top with the new adhesive. Also this window weld is very messy, have plenty of towels and thin, tight fitting latex gloves. If you get some of this where you do not want it, do not wipe it. It will just smear and make a huge mess. Just let it dry, usually 12 hrs, then use a razor blade to cut it away from where you don't want it. You will probably have some window weld squish out onto the glass when you are pressing the top onto the glass. Just wait till it is all dry , 12 hours, then razor blade the excess off. Make a cut between the squish and the top then make a cut between the glass and the squish. Then you should be able to pull the squish away and be left with a nice straight edge. Now you can say walla! No more leaky back glass!

Here is a pic just after I applied the window weld.

 

My only question is: "Where do I get suction cups like those?"

And I missed what you used the primer for.



MODS: STICKY STICKY STICK !

 

I borrowed the suction cups from the safelite glass guy. The primer goes on the convertible top where the old adhesive was to prep it for the new window weld. Primer does not go on the glass, the window weld is self priming on clean bare glass.

 

3M and I both disagree with that statement..

3M Single Step Primer 08681

 

I just did what my friend that has installed glass for 25 years told me to do. He has done many convertible top glass replacements on old and new cars and has never had a delamination failure. But if 3M says to put it on the glass I guess that would not hurt.

 

Good write up, I have converted it to a PDF and added it to my post on Crossfire repairs as it could get lost in the shuffle where it is.
CLICK to see it as a PDF, it is in the Body section of the Index of ...
I'll update it if you make any changes.

 

I bought the suction cups from Harbor Freight to $7.50 each. I put the primer on both the glass and the old adhesive on the top. I also left the masking tape on the glass until after bringing the surfaces together and then removed it before it dried completely thus minimizing the amount of excess to be removed. It all went very smooth.

 

How long ago? Mine lasted 12 months in Alabama (high temps).

Following these instrutions, but using looooong (24" vicegrips and load spreaders to clamp over the entire perimeter.

 

I was going to say that sucks, but I guess they don't.

 

Two months, only time will tell. I asked on another thread how long the repair has lasted but with no replies. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

 

18 months for me in perth australia. it gets nice and hot here. Still holding up well with no issues. Cant say much about the tyres thought another rear set in 5000 KMs.