New owner and read all I could on my nonworking alarm siren. Bought a new MB part on Amazon, date on part is Jan. of 2017. Followed instructions from this site and completed the job. Also vacuumed out the drains and ran water through them to make sure I do not have any plugs.
Finished the job and thought I would try it while the engine hood is up and nothing, no chirp and armed with drivers window down and opened door no alarm.
Since I am not original owner I have to wonder if they had the random alarm and did something to disable the circuit. Checked all the fuses and they all look to be there.

 

Did the lights flash? They should flash even if the alarm does not sound.
They should also flash even if the chirp does not sound when unlocking or locking the doors etc.

 

Yes, lights still flash same as before I replaced alarm siren.

 

Hello, Can anyone help me??? I really don't want to spend a lot of money for someone to do an electrical diagnosis if there is anything I can do on my own.

 

Seems that this siren gets power from fuse #9 and a signal from the CLP/SSM in the trunk.
If you go to the Service Manual for the 2004 models (NAs) you can see the circuit and how to test the circuit. Go to page 8Q-27.

 

You MIGHT be able to find a local member, and temp hook the new siren up to their car. This will eliminate or confirm the siren as the problem.

.

 

I would think a simple hook up to the appropriate terminals would get a sound from it, a beep and a scream.
There are three terminals a ground, one for a beep and one for the siren signal. I am guessing but those are my thoughts on it. Maybe the ground is not adequate. Our favorite module is involved, the CLP/SSM.
As you are bhindzioncurtain I think you might be told any secrets pertaining to the alarm system.

 

I might be reading this post wrong, but I didn't think you could arm the system with the hood up?

 

I checked that and the light was blinking with the hood up so I guess it was armed. The doors were locked as well.

 

I read up a little on the CLP/SSM and wonder if that is the noise I hear from the rear of the car. Everytime I lock or unlock the car there is a weird sound, it lasts about 8 seconds when I arm and about 14 seconds when I disarm the car. Kind of sounds like air being let out of something.

 

That would be it.

 

I guess from your response that noise is normal. So my next step is to find out how to access CLP/SSM , it looks like I will need to remove some trunk panels.
Is this one of those parts that usually need to be replaced and how pricy is that??

 

A few months back I had that very noise same too , i checked under the module in the trunk and there was evidence of water ingress so i resealed the spoiler and no water since (thanks 180 et all).
The Module itself looked fine so i just put it back in an magically the that noise did not happen again.
I did read here somewhere that there is a valve inside the module that shuts the air on and off and that it can get sticky. Maybe dampness can cause it? .

Anyway that was months ago and no more noises from the back but Today i was driving and the siren went off !!
I pulled over and did a lock /unlock and that shut it up ! ?, but when i got home i found i could arm the alarm ,reach in thru the window and open the door and all that happened was the were lights flashing but no siren squealing ??
Do i need a new siren now ? or is it just the 2 x3.7v batteries in the siren that need replacing ?
any advice welcome .
thanks

 

You can not tell without sawing the module apart, but I can say from your symptoms that there is a 90% chance that your batteries DID go bad, and also leaked all over the circuit board.
Probably time for a new module, make sure you get the updated one that beeps on lock/unlock.

 

'

Thanks ala xfire, i will do that asap .

 

So found pictures of the CLP/SSM on the site and kind of know what to look for (wetness ). The weather here in Seattle is dry and warm so I am not motivated this weekend to be in the garage. Having fun driving, especially when I need to pass and hear the whine of the supercharger.

Also just in case I found the part number to the unit and they are selling them on eBay for around $250. If it wasn't such a blast to drive and the support of this forum I would be getting rid of it. But I guess to have pleasure there must be a little pain.

 

Bit the bullet and started on uncovering the CLP/SSM. What a pain, removed all the black clips with some tools I bought at Dealextreme. "ZIQIAO Auto Car Radio Door Clip Panel Trim Dash Audio Removal Installer Pry Tool - Orange ZIQIAO Auto Car Radio Door Clip Panel Trim" only costs 2.83 but it comes from China so allow up to three weeks.





Then I removed both of the fabric covered panels and after 20 minutes figured out how to remove the black plastic piece connected to the latch area. Had to remove the white panel from the drivers side and noticed two of the white clips were smashed, probably from when it was assembled. I ended up breaking one. So found a youtube clip where someone had modified clips for an Infinity to work on Crossfires. I am not sure about the guidelines for linking so just will give you the title "How-To Video of Modified Trim Panel Clips Chrysler Crossfire.AVI" this video was from 2008 but I am sure Infinity's still use the same clips for the older ones. I think he said less than $3 for 4 clips. So tomorrow I will be checking on getting me a few.

Finally was able to pull the Styrofoam inserts out and found evidence of prior water stains on the drivers side.





The passenger part really depressed me. There is 1/2 inch of water sitting in the area so I am guessing the CLP/SSM is shot.





My question is instead of doing all the work of taking apart the wing and the gas filler door why wouldn't it work to just caulk those areas? They make clear caulk and it seems to be the easy way to fix this problem. Even with taking those areas apart and putting sealer in there, eventually they will probably still leak some time in the future. If I am looking at this wrong please enlighten me.

 

So in reviewing some of the DIY info I noticed that in tread https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...u-trunk-2.html Post #22 there is a picture of the CLP/SSM. It shows the module with the manifold pointing up. In my car the manifold is pointing towards the center of the trunk. Hmmmm, anyone else notice which way your module was?

 

Looks Familiar ! :-(
You will have to remove the spoiler to seal it all properly, in my case the fuel door area was not leaking.
I bought the correct trim clips here from here:

CHRYSLER CROSSFIRE DOOR CARD SIDE SKIRT BUMP PANEL LINING REPAIR TRIM CLIPS | eBay

Have fun !

 

I 'think " mine was pointed Up , but my short term memory has taken more than a few hits .
Are you sure water got into the module ? the foam should have kept it above a half inch hi tide.
Mine stopped making the wheezing groaning noise after i stopped the water leak so im thinkin Dampness is enough to upset that little valve inside.