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Troubleshooting & Technical Questions & ModificationsHave technical or modification questions about the Crossfire?
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Won't Start problem / Fixed and No start back again!
New to me '05 Xfire. This has been an intermittant problem over the last few days. Got stranded at I-Hop Xmas day and had AAA tow it home. Once removed from truck it started right up. Good for two days. Went out in the evening next day and tried to start three times and die. Fourth try no crank and only dash lights on. I removed the RCM and checked solder joints and are fine. Re-installed RCM and started fine several times. Couple hours later I tried starting and same no start scenario as above. Seems I "may" have a defective SKREEM module. Could weak batteries in the FOB give the same symptoms? Mine are 6.2v.
Update: 12/28/22 @ 1:25 Just went outside and it started right up several times. ?????????
How does one reprogram a SKREEM? Can this be done at home? The vehicle has a two week old battery in it. I'm guessing not and the module and all system parts have to be sent to MSS. Thanks
Who should I contact for repair of my SKREEM system? Who is MSS and contact info?
New to me '05 Xfire. This has been an intermittant problem over the last few days. Got stranded at I-Hop Xmas day and had AAA tow it home. Once removed from truck it started right up. Good for two days. Went out in the evening next day and tried to start three times and die. Fourth try no crank and only dash lights on. I removed the RCM and checked solder joints and are fine. Re-installed RCM and started fine several times. Couple hours later I tried starting and same no start scenario as above. Seems I "may" have a defective SKREEM module. Could weak batteries in the FOB give the same symptoms? Mine are 6.2v.
Update: 12/28/22 @ 1:25 Just went outside and it started right up several times. ?????????
At one time, SKREEMS were said to "die and never come back without help". But lately, I've read of SKREEMS that seem to act just like yours is acting.
What we must be careful of, is condemning a SKREEM that is losing battery power at times. That would cause the SKREEM to not respond to the ECU and cause a "bad SKREEM" symptom to come and go, just like yours is doing.
Power is fed to the SKREEM via fuse 35 (in most model years). If the remote lock/unlock buttons work, then there is power to the SKREEM. The easy way to test is to wait for the car to refuse to start, and hit lock or unlock, if the locks respond, there is power to the SKREEM. If the locks do not respond, there may not be power to the SKREEM or the SKREEM is really dead.
(The SKREEM is also the receiver for the lock/unlock/panic buttons. It is conceivable that the buttons will work when the car wont start.)
There is no "DIY fix" for a bad SKREEM.
Josh Chase is owner of the MSS and he can certainly guide you in getting this figured out. If he contradicts anything Iv'e said, listen to HIM not ME.
YOu can click here to contact him: https://themercedesswapshop.com/
Last edited by pizzaguy; Dec 28, 2022 at 02:47 PM.
At one time, SKREEMS were said to "die and never come back without help". But lately, I've read of SKREEMS that seem to act just like yours is acting.
What we must be careful of, is condemning a SKREEM that is losing battery power at times. That would cause the SKREEM to not respond to the ECU and cause a "bad SKREEM" symptom to come and go, just like yours is doing.
Power is fed to the SKREEM via fuse 35 (in most model years). If the remote lock/unlock buttons work, then there is power to the SKREEM. The easy way to test is to wait for the car to refuse to start, and hit lock or unlock, if the locks respond, there is power to the SKREEM. If the locks do not respond, there may not be power to the SKREEM or the SKREEM is really dead.
(The SKREEM is also the receiver for the lock/unlock/panic buttons. It is conceivable that the buttons will work when the car wont start.)
There is no "DIY fix" for a bad SKREEM.
Josh Chase is owner of the MSS and he can certainly guide you in getting this figured out. If he contradicts anything Iv'e said, listen to HIM not ME.
YOu can click here to contact him: https://themercedesswapshop.com/
What about SKREEM units that sit on the shelf for long periods of time?
I have had batteries go flat on me in the winter, no problem.
I have a unit I purchased from NeedsWings when he had a special on some years back, should I worry about it?
Modules like this fail even when a 10 cent item in them fail, always have and always will. Take the seat relay as a prime example, I repaired mine when I found a 10c diode had failed. The part was so cheap you could only buy them on a card of 10 pieces.
It could also be bad relays in the RCM, how many miles?
Car has 111K on it. I'm also thinking it "may" be a faulty relay that makes and breaks intermittantly. I may try and burnish the contacts. Kinda strange that it's intermittant starting. Wouldn't a bad SKREEM be bad all the time? Not knowing what all 5 relays do in the RCM, but using a rubber band on the center relay will let it start for emergency travel. I just went outside and tried starting and it starts every time. Pizzaguy says there is a possibility SKREEM is losing it's power.
...but using a rubber band on the center relay will let it start for emergency travel. .
If that is the case, your SKREEM is fine. Order a new RCM and send your bad one to DJ for a rebuild. (We should always carry a spare, I do, many of us do.)
If that is the case, your SKREEM is fine. Order a new RCM and send your bad one to DJ for a rebuild. (We should always carry a spare, I do, many of us do.
Thats the "Engine Control Relay" and it must close in order to power up the ECU (engine control unit, also called the Power Train Control Module or "the car's brain").
The key switch does NOT power most of the car, as too much current is involved. So, the ignition switch powers relays in the RCM who then distribute power to various items in the car. And that middle one powers the ECU which then controls the fuel pump relay.
THis is one part you find by entering "2003 Mercedes SLK320" and not the Crossfire. Don't try ordering body parts using that method, but chassis and drive train is about 97% SLK320.
Last edited by pizzaguy; Dec 28, 2022 at 06:51 PM.
I am a new Crossfire owner. I experienced the engine stall, followed by cranking without starting once. After half an hour, it started and worked for about 70 miles.
Two days ago, it died again, seven times. Each time the car took longer to sit before it would restart, and delivered less miles before stalling again.
I replaced the crankshaft positioning sensor. I will add some detail that I have not seen in reading this thread.
1.) To remove the wire from the sensor, understand that the wire and a plastic cup over the sensor is one piece. You are removing the plastic cup, not just the wire. On the plastic cup, under where the wire meets the cup, is a plastic clip that we are supposed to press in towards the plastic cup, which will release a catch further down on the plastic cup. I was unsuccessful getting that to work smoothly. Instead, I used a curved dental pic in my right hand, pried up the lower part of the clip (replicating what pressing the upper part should do), and then pulled the wire and plastic cap off.
2.) There is little room for big hands. Harbor Freight sells foot-long needle-nose pliers. I used these to pull the plastic cup.
3.) With the plastic cup and wire removed, the E8 torx bolt becomes visible. I used a ¼" drive E8 socked, ¼" drive extensions, and ¼" drive ratchet to remove the bolt. I used a claw-type part retrieving tool to pull the bolt without losing it.
4.) I see lots of suggestions to remove the heat shield. I also see lots of videos without the heat shield and some with melted wire and plastic cap. I left my heat shield in place for the repair.
I will add some detail that I have not seen in reading this thread.
Keep reading, there are countless threads on this issue (as is the case with everything we discuss here). This has been discussed often and several variations on how to remove and unplug have been offered.
SOMEWHERE here, you will find my procedure, which I insist is the easiest way to do this:
1) Using a ratchet and extension, loosen the bolt and at the same time, gently pull on the connector/sensor.
2) When the bolt becomes free, hold the ratchet such that it keeps the bolt in the hole of the sensor and pull the ratchet/bolt/connector/sensor out as one unit.
3) Once you get it all free and out far enough you can see what you are doing, lay ratchet aside and grab the bolt (still in the hole of the sensor) and set it aside.
It is now easy to unplug the connector, and you don't drop the damn bolt this way.
Just received my "Chinese" RCM this afternoon and installed it. Started right up several times and hope this is the permanent fix as it was an intermittant problem. Gonna have my old one rebuilt with new relays.
Now that it starts I'll be able to put it in the driveway and install the new wire mesh grill, seat relay, new radio and the interior door pull that put three cuts in my finger. Also I really have to get that cracked weld, on the cat, that is leaking exhaust and noise.
Just received my "Chinese" RCM this afternoon and installed it. Started right up several times and hope this is the permanent fix as it was an intermittant problem. Gonna have my old one rebuilt with new relays.
Now that it starts I'll be able to put it in the driveway and install the new wire mesh grill, seat relay, new radio and the interior door pull that put three cuts in my finger. Also I really have to get that cracked weld, on the cat, that is leaking exhaust and noise.
Guess I spoke too soon! Right back to square one!!! Went outside to move cars around and wouldn't you just know it, "The darn car tried three times to start and fourth time nothing!" This car is starting to "eat my lunch!" $1100 more dollars after a good purchase price. It ran great for two weeks after purchase and then the cold front moved in and created the whole mess! Car has new battery and I will check it's voltage tomorrow. Grounds are clean and secure. "MAKES ME WANT TO SKREEM OUT LOUD!"
Why after I installed the new RCM would the car start several times normally and then a couple hours later give me the same "no start" situation. Seems that if the SKREEM was at fault it would be bad all the time. Could it possibly be a bad FOB antenna pickup coil problem?
My fancy yard ornament is really depressing me! I guess nothing else left to check for my "no start" situation. Probably have to send my FOB, SKREEM Module, CPU and VIN "somewhere" to have it rebuilt. (Did I forget anything?) Any suggestions on "who" to send it to? Gonna need a second Key/Fob also.
Won't Start problem / Fixed and No start back again!
