im looking to get this vehicle

Has anyone done any power adders to this vehicle yet???

How much boost can this motor hold before o-haul.

do they make aftermarket injectors yet?

whats the curb weight of this vehicle?

Please let me know just some feedback. i want to build a show slash racecar and need to know the pros and con...

Thanks alot guys/gals

 

Those are some good questions, however not many people are going to stop and answer your questions becaue you can simply find the answers by using the SEARCH feature at the top of the screen. This forum is full of people who have short fuses, and aren't willing to help out the average "newbie" with basic questions.

But just explore the SEARCH feature, and you will find endless amounts of information these cars, especailly after market parts.

As for your questions.

1. There are lots of "Power adders".....intake, pulleys, exhaust, ECU remap, injectors, many more.

2. I'm not sure, you'll have to look

3. Yes, I'm almost positive they make new injectors for the SRT6, I know for sure they make them for the N/A model.

4. Curb Weight for an SRT6 coupe is 3240 lbs. I am sure you are interested in the SRT6 coupe and not a regular naturally aspirated coupe or convertable

Anyways, hope this is a start for you.

 

Actually i am interested in the NA model. a buddy of mine from P&P tuning are going to build a custom turbo kit for the vehicle. i know that the srt6 is supercharged. But since i don't own one i don't know what a stock srt pushes through the block in the form of boost. i know the failure point of alot of stock motors. Mercedes is not one that i am familiar with.

i know its just like any other board where guys get all uptight with questions. i guess i should have been more specific.


Has anyone done a TT setup on this engine yet..

What is the stock failure point and what is safe as far as boost.

Do i need to modify the injector rail to fit bigger lbs injectors or do they make bigger ones.

What type of tuning is everyone running other then the factory PCM. cause i know dodge-mercedes can be a bear to crack.....

The software that we have can only work on ford and GM right now so i didn't know if stand alone was needed???


sorry if that was long but if you know any answers that would be great. i did find some stuff under the search, but again didn't want to spend hours searching through every little detail. Thanks again

 

I'll try to answer some of your questions as I am in the same boat as you are. There have been a couple "attempts" in twin turboing the crossfire with no results ever posted. So far some of the claims I have seen is that the ecu will handle about 5-6 psi of boost. Although I don't believe this because of the 17lb injectors that are on the car could not possibly handle that load. TVT has found a set of larger injectors that will work , but I'm sure they will be too small for what you want to do. The SRT has a comp ratio of 9:1 and is taking up to 22 psi of boost from the factory SC. Our NA's have 10:1 so they won't handle as much. I'm trying to find a different con rod or piston to drop to 8:1. I want to go with a powerdyne supercharger because it has the lowest boost temps that I have found so far and are capable of 40psi. As far as tuning is concerned, I know split second has had success boosting the v8 version of our block using piggyback computers to tune. They are basically a different version of Apexi's SAFC which I am going to use to tune mine. I think the bottom end is capable of 600hp. How long it will hold together , who knows .
Now get ready for the fun part of this forum. The doubting Thomases will now try to destroy your will to live and tell you you should have bought a SRT6 etc etc etc.... Also 99% of the replies will have nothing to do with your post and will erupt into ***** envy fights. Shoot me a PM if you want to discuss this more in depth.

 

no no no, keep it public. i love these threads, but i have to admit some of them have led to bitter disputes and off topic.

sounds like you have access to a shop and alot of knowlage. perhaps another potential to gain some ground on this subject. i say buy the car and jump in with both feet. maybe start off with just a small boost and work from there.

 

Sorry, but I've seen what happens to these threads. I've decided that when I'm done with mine and have solid numbers from a dyno or some good strip times I will share what I have done to my NA. BTW a small boost will only get you to stock SRT power.

I will however clear up some issues I have read on the forum.

No map sensor on the NA. I know for a fact mine has both maf and map. Its in the service manual and I've seen it on the motor. Part #a0041533228

FMU's won't work to tune boosted applications because there is no return line to the tank to install it. Sure there is a return line between the regulator and the tank. The fuel pump and regulator are mounted outside of our gas tanks so the fmu would have to be mounted there and not in the engine bay where it is traditionally found. Cheap way to tune for boost? Ask Paxton and other companies that use it. $85

As far as the internal parts the sc and na share. I have found that they share the same block, heads, pistons, and same size crank. The crank in the NA might not be forged but I don't think we would have such a high redline if it weren't. Afterall its usually over revving that breaks rods,crank etc...The difference in compression comes solely from the shorter con rods the SRT uses. That being said the majority of critical parts related to power handling are identical.


I'm sure there is more misinformation that I have read here and maybe I'll post it later.

 

Great info. Thanks. hopefully i will be able to find one and dive in head first. lol

 

Not to come across as one of the aformentioned nay-sayers.

I strongly suggest that you look into tuning the ECU before you go and buy a bunch of parts.

The reason there's so many people who poo-poo the idea is because there's easily 10 people every year who say they are going to turbo the car. They all claim to have done it to every other car they own, or have owned. They get into a huge pissing match with the people who claim that it's not worthwhile or can't be done, and then they are never heard from again.

It's not a matter of negativity, it's a matter of "the boy who cried wolf".


I'm not against what you're trying to do.......just warning you beforehand. Personally, I'd love to see someone do it!

 

i want to do it but like i said. my fear is trying to tune the pcm.. The program i have for GM and Ford we can reflash the factory pcm and change spark advance/retard and fuel injector pulse width. but dodge-mercedes i don't think you can yet????

 

This Otta Be Good

 

I understand concerns of tuning the factory computer. At this point in time I think it will be easier to trick the computer into what you want it to do than to get someone with the appropriate knowledge to tune it for a high boost situation. I've also heard that switching to the SRT ECU could be the path. In all actuality since my car does have both maf and map it may even be possible to reflash my ecu with the SRT program and switch to the SRT injectors and SRT map sensor etc.... At any rate I don't think there will be any easy solutions, but, I am at least going to try. Maybe it will take two months or two years, either way it will be worth it to me and thats all that matters.

 

As I understand it......the ECU is mated to the trans, ignition, security system, etc, etc. You'd basically have to switch everything over, and find a way to defeat the spoiler activation. In the non-SRT, if the spoiler malfunctions, it triggers limp-in mode.

 

That could be a problem!!! i know that on my stratus that if the pcm in piggy backed it will re learn to its origianl patterns. Talk about pain in the ***

 

The ecu will learn and compensate in closed loop mode/low throttle cruising conditions. The whole key to tuning is to use the piggy back computers to hide the modifications under these conditions. While under open loop mode you use the piggyback computers to adjust fuel ratio and monitor it on a wideband.
Lets say I put 34lb/hr fuel injectors in (100% more flow than stock)and install a SAFC or other maf signal altering device. Before I start the car for the first time after the install I will set the SAFC to cut the maf signal voltage in half(this is completely adjustable in 500 rpm increments across the power range and can be set differently for low and high throttle). The ecu will see half the air and cut the pulse width in half and give the engine the same amount of fuel that it was getting before the injector change.Well, it will be close enough that the ecu will compensate. As long as you are not in the 1-2 milisecond time frame for pulsewidth this will work. Contrary to popular belief, when doing mods like this it is critical to set the car up for low throttle open loop driving before trying to dyno or street tune the closed loop or wide open throttle portion. After all you want the car to run perfectly stoichiometric under light throttle and cruising for gas mileage. After the car has done its fine adjustments through multiple driving sessions you can start tuning the high throttle/boost areas where the car is open loop mode.
Cutting the maf signal in half has about the same effect as starting your car at high altitudes such as 10,000 ft above sea level.
Another method of lowering the amount of fuel is replacing the stock regulator with a rising rate regulator that has a lower initial fuel pressure than the factory 53-61 psi.

 

I guess I'll add some more and answer the next questions that will probably come up.
What about retarding the timing under boost? Again, another piggyback computer can change the timing based on rpm and boost pressure.

Before I get too far along I'd like to say that I personally like adding the piggyback computers because they are user adjustable. Unlike a ecu tune that has to be tuned by a company if you ever have problems. Generally speaking, if you tune to 11.5-12:1 AFR you will get about 90% of the engines potential power safely.

 

I hear you on that 10 people a month ordeal as I have been reading threads everyday for a couple of months on here. I think the problem has been that most are relying on a shop that has no experience in actually changing NA cars over to FI.
Like I said in a former post, I'm not going to claim anything until I have solid information(working car). I think a lot of people have not really had the persistence it takes or personal knowledge to follow all the way through with a project of this magnitude. These days its getting harder and harder to rely on others as well. Some of the people have probably gotten hit with the "were gonna need more money" phrase from their mechanic.

 

That could be a problem!!! i know that on my stratus that if the pcm in piggy backed it will re learn to its origianl patterns. Talk about pain in the ***[
Now we're compairing our Crossfires to the Stratus???????

 

The above post was not mine I promise I don't own a Stratus.

 

I don't know!!! After all......you said it, Freudian slip?

 

hey don't knock the stratus that was my first car. and yes it also has a mercedes trans and pcm. if you want to see it so you don't think it is a big rice burner i can put up a pic for you. it is a 2 door coupe.