Your electronic knowledge put to a challenge!
Yes that is right! This is somewhat over my head so I need some help here. I know there are some electronic wizzards out there that can figure this out for me. PLEASE.
Here are the circuits I am working with:

I am removing the rear active wing assembly from the system. That includes the motor and limit switch. When doing this, I am told that I will get a red light on the switch (meaning malfunction) and a beeping sound when going over 80 MPH. I know I won't be going over 80 much, but you never know.
My first "old school" thought was simply ground the wire to terminal 28 and the BCM will always think the spoiler is up. Then after reading through the on-line manual, it will probably give me a code of "up limit signal short to ground". Then my next thought was to ground it thru a resistor of some undetermined value. Am I in the ball park here?
To get a better understanding, page 2856, section 23-1 of the on-line manual explains the checks and codes for malfunctions.
My main concern is to eliminate the beeping but also to keep the red light out on the switch. Any help here would be greatly appreciated.
James
Here are the circuits I am working with:

I am removing the rear active wing assembly from the system. That includes the motor and limit switch. When doing this, I am told that I will get a red light on the switch (meaning malfunction) and a beeping sound when going over 80 MPH. I know I won't be going over 80 much, but you never know.
My first "old school" thought was simply ground the wire to terminal 28 and the BCM will always think the spoiler is up. Then after reading through the on-line manual, it will probably give me a code of "up limit signal short to ground". Then my next thought was to ground it thru a resistor of some undetermined value. Am I in the ball park here?
To get a better understanding, page 2856, section 23-1 of the on-line manual explains the checks and codes for malfunctions.
My main concern is to eliminate the beeping but also to keep the red light out on the switch. Any help here would be greatly appreciated.
James
Your old school sense of thinking, with the added resistor (of undetermined value) makes sense to me, James, but then I'm old school, too!
Just curious though, why go through the effort? Why not just leave the little sucker up?
Just curious though, why go through the effort? Why not just leave the little sucker up?
James, Sorry no help, but +firemax has his spoiler disabled to come up automatically but he still has the functionalality for manual mode. Dont know if he is getting any lights though.
Kurt, Hopefully by the weekend, I will have my fixed wing (SRT) hanging on the rear.
James
James
Originally Posted by Kurts
Your old school sense of thinking, with the added resistor (of undetermined value) makes sense to me, James, but then I'm old school, too!
Just curious though, why go through the effort? Why not just leave the little sucker up?
Just curious though, why go through the effort? Why not just leave the little sucker up?
Steve, I have been in contact with Michael several times with questions. He is living with the associated issues. I want a resolution. Thanks for your thought.
Originally Posted by Steve Hellums
Hey James, give amick6534 a PM. He put an SRT wing on his regular coupe.
Originally Posted by James1549
Steve, I have been in contact with Michael several times with questions. He is living with the associated issues. I want a resolution. Thanks for your thought.
The problem with just looking at the schematic is that you don't know when and what signal is coming or going to the body control module. However it is only one of two possibilities, 28 to ground or 28 in open circuit. They maybe more to it but I would try this first.
Originally Posted by Steve Hellums
Humm, I would have suggested just wiring the up limit switches wire's to together and just fooling the body module into thinking it was up. But I just read somewhere that someone had a problem with the beeper when they manually raised the spoiler up with the buttom and got over a certain speed. But I got to say, when I had my 04 coupe I'm sure I had raised it with the button and got up to over 70 or 80 mph with no beeping.
Ok guys I don't have it exactly figured out yet, but am getting closer.
Step1 - First without anything hooked up, the light on the switch will start flashing at about 15 mph. Turn the car off and it will not come back on until 15 mph again.
Step 2 - I jumped the wire from the 'up limit' switch to the ground wire in the diagram. I did that because with the wing assy sitting on the workbench, the up limit switch is closed and down limit switch is open.
I drove the car and got it up to 66 mph and no light! I slowed down and turned the corner, and on came the flashing light. This maybe took 5 minutes to come on since I left the house.
Step 3 - I measured the resisitance of the motor sitting on the bench. 107 ohms. No problem, I jumped the plug in the car with a 100 ohm resistor. Back on the same test drive. Light came on the same area or time factor.
I measured my resistor and it actually was only 85 ohms.
Step 4 - I added a 45 ohm resister in series with the 85. Now I am in the 125 ohm area a with meter measurement. Hook it up and off I go. This time I drive a further distance before the light came on. I am guessing I went twice the distance before the light came on with the additional resistance.
Step 5 - I ran out of time and patients for today. Currently I have a 1K resistor jumped in the plug and plan to drive it tonight. I will let you know what I find.
ANy ideas would be greatly appreciated!
James
Step1 - First without anything hooked up, the light on the switch will start flashing at about 15 mph. Turn the car off and it will not come back on until 15 mph again.
Step 2 - I jumped the wire from the 'up limit' switch to the ground wire in the diagram. I did that because with the wing assy sitting on the workbench, the up limit switch is closed and down limit switch is open.
I drove the car and got it up to 66 mph and no light! I slowed down and turned the corner, and on came the flashing light. This maybe took 5 minutes to come on since I left the house.
Step 3 - I measured the resisitance of the motor sitting on the bench. 107 ohms. No problem, I jumped the plug in the car with a 100 ohm resistor. Back on the same test drive. Light came on the same area or time factor.
I measured my resistor and it actually was only 85 ohms.
Step 4 - I added a 45 ohm resister in series with the 85. Now I am in the 125 ohm area a with meter measurement. Hook it up and off I go. This time I drive a further distance before the light came on. I am guessing I went twice the distance before the light came on with the additional resistance.
Step 5 - I ran out of time and patients for today. Currently I have a 1K resistor jumped in the plug and plan to drive it tonight. I will let you know what I find.
ANy ideas would be greatly appreciated!
James
Last edited by James1549; Mar 14, 2009 at 01:56 PM.
Maybe the BCM is looking for the down limit switch to close and the up switch to open when you slow down. But I guess when I think about it, that would only be true if the system was in "automatic mode"- the BCM is not seeing the spoiler move to the down position and probably sets off the malfunction alarm. Did you perform your road tests after presing the switch on the dash to the "wing up" position?
Id forget the limit switch and see if you can just jumper the pins 68 and 71 together and forget the motor resistor, I dont think they monitor the motor current.
I also think that 100+ ohms for a motor is either wrong of there is something else in there, it is too high. 100 ohms at 12 vlots is about 0.080amps, that wont run a hard drive.
Woody
I also think that 100+ ohms for a motor is either wrong of there is something else in there, it is too high. 100 ohms at 12 vlots is about 0.080amps, that wont run a hard drive.
Woody
What you need is a set of timer relays set up of in parallel so that when the "wing" goes up, several seconds later, it completes the upper limit switch and when the "wing" goes down, several seconds later, it will complete the circuit for the lower limit switch. I have the parts available to make something work in this fashion from my nokeygo system I was working on last year. If you're interested, I can throw somethign together for you. You pay cost of the parts plus shipping and keep your eyes out for an SRT6 wing for me and we'll call it even. PM me for details.
Woody, My active wing motor ohmed out at 107. Suggestions from another forum member that deals with aircraft wings end electronics helped me figured it out. The only way I could make the system cause no faults was to have the motor hooked up. It never comes on, but must be in the system so the BCM knows it is present and within working range. It is my understanding that at certain times, the BCM may send out a very low signal and expects a certain amount back if the motor is present and in good working order.
James
James
Yes you read it right. It has a very small gear on the motor that drives a very big gear on the wing linkage.
Also as I posted over in CICCI, I did 92 mph tonight for about 2 miles, no beeps, alarms, or lights. So I am set to go...
James
Also as I posted over in CICCI, I did 92 mph tonight for about 2 miles, no beeps, alarms, or lights. So I am set to go...
James
Originally Posted by waldig
THat is less than a 1 watt motor if I read you right and that suprises me bunches, seems like an R/C servo not a motor?? OK. WOody
Revival. Just put on my fixed wing, took out motor, hooked BR - BR/GY and I have no beep (up to 120) no flash, nothing…. Weird that it didn't work for you James.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
04Fire
Parts/Accessories for sale - Archive
0
Sep 15, 2015 07:40 PM
steps
Troubleshooting & Technical Questions & Modifications
2
Sep 12, 2015 09:23 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)





