I pulled the fuse under the hood when I dumped my car yesterday and went to put the back in and the lights won't turn off....? Any clue?

 

try the 'lock to lock' reset. Turn the car on and turn the wheel all the way to one side, then the other, it will relearn the tolerences and hopefully your lights will go off.

Edit: You will need to then turn it off and restart to take effect.

Just a thought.

 

Is that side to side then back to center? Or leave at "right hand turn" position? This is the first time I've heard "turn the car back off".. so figured mine has issues in the abs since it never worked... and I'd rather spin tires with a push of the pedal than go visit the dealer so I can pay him to tell me what I need to buy.

 

MrMiata, I don't know that it matters, but if I recall correctly, I think I did get the wheel close to center (after the lock to lock) and turned the car off and restarted it, it may take a few miles to kick in, but I think it should be immediate.

If you still have lights on, it could be any number of things and if it is an ABS light, I would not wait too long to get it checked in case it is something serious. I had to pay the dealer $100 to put the diagnostic system on my car for about 1.5 minutes for them to tell me which wheel speed sensor was out, ~$60 part, 15 minute fix, but still cost me an extra C-note because of the damn stealership....

Edit: is your spoiler stuck in the raised position when the lights are on?

 

Turn the wheel all the way to the left until it stops and then to the right until it stops and then to the center, turn the key off for a minute and start the car and put it in drive and after you move forward (it doesnt usually take long after you start moving but could take a couple of blocks) the light should go off. If it doesn't or it returns you will have a different issue to chase down.

 

My spoiler is on Viagra..lights on..off..parked. I was real cautious of the abs-esp when it first came up about 6 weeks ago, but there has been no hint of braking issues whatsover. It was one of those things where I parked the car for the night after work, next morning immediately after I had just started her up .. abs-esp light comes on..spoiler erect and indicater flashing. I just hate the thought of "here's you a hundred..now which wheel sensor needs fixed?" From what I've read on the forum I'd feel comfortable with 80% chance this is the issue.

 

It sounds like a speed sensor for sure, an easy fix, but more of a pain to figure out which it is. I finally fixed mine beacuse I was scared if something else was going on with the car, I would not notice it with the dash lit up. I am also incredibly **** about having the spoiler down unless racing or over 60MPH. Good luck with the issue, it took me a while to swallow my pride and disdain for the stealership and have them hook it up.

He wanted to 'drive it around' just to make sure everything seemed normal, I told him he could have his joy ride in a different customer's car because no one would be behind the wheel of mine, but me

 

I tend to think that all this lock to lock is a load of BS. I replaced my battery and the light came on, not wishing to put black marks on the driveway, I reversed onto the street and when I straightened out the wheel the light was gone with no lock to lock. Go figure.

I think the OP has solved his problem as he has not replied.

 

LOL.. Reminds me of my younger days "Hey man..can I take your bike for a ride"...Sure.. "and while your gone I'll just ride your wife".. Got some looks but they got the point..lol.

 

This is page 88 of the owners manual. I guess it could be BS but I'm betting not.

88 UNDERSTANDING THE FEATURES OF YOUR VEHICLE

Synchronizing ESP

If the power supply was interrupted (battery disconnected
or discharged), the BAS/ESP malfunction indicator
light may be illuminated with the engine running. To
re-synchronize the ESP, and cancel the malfunction indicator
light, the steering angle sensor will need to be
recalibrated.
1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON/RUN position.
2. Rotate the steering wheel to the center position.
3. Rotate the steering wheel completely to the left, and
then rotate the steering wheel completely to the right.
4. Bring the steering wheel back to the center position.
5. The BAS/ESP malfunction indicator light will go out.
If the BAS/ESP malfunction indicator light is still illuminated,
the vehicle should be serviced at an authorized
dealer.

 

Steering wheel position is determined by an array of optical couplers in the clockspring. When you disconnect (then reconnect) the battery, the car needs to re-identify which way the wheel is turned (the esp uses this input along with yaw and lateral acceleration sensor inputs to determine if you are getting out of control). Turning the wheel lock to lock is the easiest way for the car to determine which way the wheel is pointed hence the procedure. IF you have other issues, this wont be your answer.
Chris

 

All 4 sensors swapped out courtesy of Johns old car and MrMopar. Guess I can check them off the source list. It at least gave me a chance to clean all the brake crud off the inside of the wheels! So not a total loss.. oh... for sale.. apparently good wheel sensors from an 04 Limited edition coupe..

 

It worked twice for me!

 

Hey Chris, I don't recall seeing when the battery is disconnected for winter storage (roadster) that any warning lights come on when reconnected in spring. Seems this would indicate that there needs to be more than just the battery disconnect causing the issue. Does the BAS/ESP light tell the computer to no longer use the position sensing then after the cause of the light is fixed it then needs calibration?

 

How can you determine which speed sensor needs to be replaced. Every code reader I get does not support the ABS system for the Crossfire.

 

Try reading it as a 2004 SLK320. If that doesn't work then try Autozone or O'Reillys and have them read it as a Crossfire or a SLK 320. Autel MD802 and Launch CRP123 can read those codes without any issues as a SLK320.

 

There are only about 3 brands of OBDII consumer focused readers that will do ABS on the Crossfire. The easier thing to do is get a volt/ohm meter and go through the troubleshooting steps from the manual. That will point you to the bad one.

 

I would love to find an Autozone or O'Reillys that use one of those. Around me they have the $25 generic OBDII reader that barely does the required emissions codes.