Ecu
TO be honest i don't know, maybe it's cutting power to things related to the transaxle, i have a 6 speed so i cant tell you.
But i can tell you that when my RCM went out my engine randomly died, or wouldn't crank. The speedo would go all the way to 160 and back. I think taking 15 minuets of your time to check it would be worth the hundreds of dollars your going to spend taking it in to a shop.
But i can tell you that when my RCM went out my engine randomly died, or wouldn't crank. The speedo would go all the way to 160 and back. I think taking 15 minuets of your time to check it would be worth the hundreds of dollars your going to spend taking it in to a shop.
Ok, .................... 3 weeks ago I or my daughter had a simular problem. The car had no transmission. It was either in neutral or park. I was told that it may be that the transmission fluid was low..... NOPE that cost me $300. I was also told that it may be the TCM (transmission Control Modular) Nope...... That cost me another $100 to have it removed and inspected. The next possible cause is an electrical static plate that is in the transmission. (not sure exactly what it is called) I had that changed along with the trans fluid again10 days ago. So far that appears to have solved the problem. That cost me aother $500.
In the meantime I had the car inspected and added the 5 year or 70 k mile maxcare warranty that cost $3k. Now if the probem reappears she will get a new transmission.
Correction: Ok, I just called the mechanic and he said it is called a "COMMUNICATIONS PLATE".
In the meantime I had the car inspected and added the 5 year or 70 k mile maxcare warranty that cost $3k. Now if the probem reappears she will get a new transmission.
Correction: Ok, I just called the mechanic and he said it is called a "COMMUNICATIONS PLATE".
The ECU is the plastic plate and solenoid covers etc on top of the aluminum hydraulic unit. The leaky electrical plug socket is shown in the bottom right hand corner of the picture.
What goes wrong often is a solenoid valve, by default the unit should select only second gear and that is called 'Limp Mode'. I have had it and driving speed is restricted as well, it makes for a slow ride home.
If it is a warranty repair the dealer will likely replace the faulty item, if it is a customer pay job then a whole new unit is fitted. On mine they rebuilt a solenoid.
The OP's problem probably lies here in the speed control.
I believe this is the part that your mechanic is saying is the culprit :
Mercedes Benz Transmission Conductor Plate 1402701161 - Volkstoy Motorsports
Mercedes Benz Transmission Conductor Plate 1402701161 - Volkstoy Motorsports
That is correct!
I think the communications plate is sometimes called the electrical plate or the Electrical Control Unit. Here it is shown bolted to the hydraulic unit. Together they make up the Electrohydraulic Module.
The ECU is the plastic plate and solenoid covers etc on top of the aluminum hydraulic unit. The leaky electrical plug socket is shown in the bottom right hand corner of the picture.
What goes wrong often is a solenoid valve, by default the unit should select only second gear and that is called 'Limp Mode'. I have had it and driving speed is restricted as well, it makes for a slow ride home.
If it is a warranty repair the dealer will likely replace the faulty item, if it is a customer pay job then a whole new unit is fitted. On mine they rebuilt a solenoid.
The OP's problem probably lies here in the speed control.

The ECU is the plastic plate and solenoid covers etc on top of the aluminum hydraulic unit. The leaky electrical plug socket is shown in the bottom right hand corner of the picture.
What goes wrong often is a solenoid valve, by default the unit should select only second gear and that is called 'Limp Mode'. I have had it and driving speed is restricted as well, it makes for a slow ride home.
If it is a warranty repair the dealer will likely replace the faulty item, if it is a customer pay job then a whole new unit is fitted. On mine they rebuilt a solenoid.
The OP's problem probably lies here in the speed control.

So where is this located and how much do they cost?
$200 or so. It depends where you get them, at a Chrysler dealer prepare to hand over one of your children.
LOL....so where is this located on the car?
Go to the Service Manuals on the Forum, you can get a look at the whole thing from a distance and close up. !80 has also posted a tone of common and not so common problems encountered over a few years.
Great explanations and pics!!
Great explanations and pics!!
It's very well hidden in the SRT6 Documentation section ???? 

Here's the link : https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post111722


Here's the link : https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post111722
HOLY CRAP!!!!!!!!
So I got up this morning went out and took out the RCM and did the soder thing and no more issue!!!!! Car is back to running normal!!!!
Thanks for everyone's input on here it really helped me out and saved me a hell of a lot of money!!!
Thanks,
Brad
So I got up this morning went out and took out the RCM and did the soder thing and no more issue!!!!! Car is back to running normal!!!!
Thanks for everyone's input on here it really helped me out and saved me a hell of a lot of money!!!
Thanks,
Brad
great, glad to here the tranny is doing good,, after the long time to find the fix. jim
So the Trans Comm or Electrical plate would throw those error codes? Cause me to lose gearing and make the fin come up?
ECU will receive input, and trigger the codes... which means the ECU is just doing its job. The culprit is usually something else...like RCM... which has not only bad solder joints, but burned relays as well.... The car is very voltage sensitive, so a spike could set off a lot of different codes... It is a least a place to start... Pull the RCM...
ECU will receive input, and trigger the codes... which means the ECU is just doing its job. The culprit is usually something else...like RCM... which has not only bad solder joints, but burned relays as well.... The car is very voltage sensitive, so a spike could set off a lot of different codes... It is a least a place to start... Pull the RCM...
I was late with my post. There are relays in there as well that can cause problems...but if you did the solder repair correctly and it didn't help, I would think the other guys who have had similar problems are right in looking to the transmission electrical plate. Not many have had this problem, but as they have stated, they had similar issues and it was the plate. You didn't waste your time doing the solder repair....as that is a common problem...
So I'm still having this issue....but how I'm getting around it is I have to start my car and let it sit for about 20 mins or so. Then turn it off and back on and the lights don't came back on and I'm good to drive for the day. But once it sits over night I have to let it run, like it needs to get warmed up for it to work correct. I'm pulling my hair out over this! The dealers don't know what the hell it is!!!!



