The manual says to install a new new flange nut. Did you, and if so where did you get it? Did you just use a chisel to crimp the nut once torqued?

Also, did you have to remove the hub completely or partially to get the axle out?

There doesn't seem to be a lot of info available on this. I'm wondering if I should take a bunch of pictures and do a write afterwards.

I plan on buying the Timken 513130 bearings from Amazon tonight, but figure I should replace the nuts as well.

 

I replaced both rear hubs with the bearing. On my car, some of the lug threads were stripped when I bought it, and I tried the "helicoil" insert (search on "rear hub") which worked OK. However, I autocross almost every weekend and wanted a more reliable solution. So I got 1 hub from LKQ and 1 from MrMoPar. Both were under $75 + shipping. You will need to get a new locking nut from Mercedes, a Metric size 30 12-point socket, and all the torque you can muster (while the wheel is on the car) to loosen the nut. Overall not a bad job, but you will have to check the toe alignment strut and adjust the cam as necessary (measure toe before you tear it apart). Good luck.
Mike

 

Thanks for the info. Didn't get my bearings ordered. Someone bought just one of the two amazon had. So, waiting till they get more in stock. I can get them for the same price from rockauto, but they don't have the flange nut, and if I order the nut and bearing at the same time from amazon there is no shipping. Sucks being cheap. Especially since Autozone stocks the Timken bearing, but wants another $20 ea. AutohausAZ sells the nut cheap, but no Timken bearings, and shipping for two flange nuts is $15. Guess I might go ahead and do front brakes this weekend instead, since I won't be able to get bearings by then.


So, did you just use a chisel or something to crimp the side of the nut once you had it torqued? I'll have to take a look at the alignment settings. I was hoping I could just mark where everything was, and put it back that way. Is it toe that you set back there and not camber?

Guess, I'll have to find a socket too. Don't think I have any 12pts that large.

 

I used a punch or a large screw driver with a hammer to crimp the locking nut. The socket is a 30mm 12 point. I think I got mine at Advance Auto Parts for about $10. Unless you have after market camber arms, the camber is not adjustable. If you only take off the outer bolt of the toe strut, then the toe shouldn't change. I loosened mine because it was easier to get the hub off.

Remember, this is to replace the whole hub, not just the bearing. I haven't seen anything on how to replace just the bearing.
Mike

 

Thanks. There doesn't seem to be much info out there from guys who have changed a bearing. The manual says to remove the hub for slip in axles, but is worded as though you don't need to when reassembling. However, I don't see that there's enough collapse in the axle to push it back out of the hub to change the bearing. When I first started digging into this all I had was the 2004 manual which describes the bolt in axles. Had I known that I would have to pull the hub, I wouldn't have bothered with the special tool 9199. Just pull it out, take it over to the press, find something that fits. But, oh well. So, sounds like I should be able to remove the hub without affecting the alignment.

I'll be sure to take lots of pix. Sounds like we could use a write up on this.

Thanks!

 

Please do take lots of pics! I think mine are toast and need replacing.

Les

 

First, are you sure it is the bearings that are bad? I bought two rear bearings and borrowed the 9199 tool from a forum member. Just before I decided to change them, I had new tires put on and ALL the noise went away. Now I have two new Timken bearings sitting on the shelf. Make me an offer!

bearing1.jpg

I would say it would be best to replace the nuts, but my plan was to properly torque the used nuts with a few drops of loctite.

James

 

I don't know if the noise is bearings, but the wheels have too much play. I need to fix this then focus on the noise, unless I get lucky and bearings fix the noise. It could be the tires, but I've never known tires to cause conditional noise. I only get noise under very light throttle. Tires always seem to make noise all the time, maybe only above a certain speed, but throttle doesn't usually affect them. Was this not the case for you??? Can you describe the noise you had? Are these the same bearings you've been trying to get rid of for a few years? $50 for the pair?

 

You offer $50 for $120 worth of bearings, and you probably want me to pay for shipping as well? Yes it does SUCK being cheap in your own words. I will keep them sealed on the shelf for another day. Good luck getting your backordered bearings from Amazon because they are 30 cents cheaper than eBay that has them in stock.

James

 

Sorry, didn't mean to offend you. Thought I was being funny, guess that back fired. That's why I put the smiley face there. I really am interested in your bearings and what you have you have to say about the tires.

 

Got my parts today. Was hoping to get this done Saturday morning, but probably won't have my truck back from the body shop. This is a little deeper than I care to get in to my daily driver without the truck around as a back up. You just never know. Besides a friend is getting some guys together for a cruise around the lake, so will probably take the Belvedere out for the day...