Is it possible to remove the alternator pulley without an impact? I need to swap the pulley, but my impact is too deep for clearance and I'm not removing the alternator.

 

I have a cheap husky impact from home depot that fits the 24mm shallow 1/2" socket needed to get it off that barely fits. Didn't bend a fin on the radiator either

Air Impact Wrench Husky 1 2" | eBay



If not, I think Latemodel21 might have another method with a home made tool, you should get a hold of him.

 

I'm trying to avoid buying a new impact for one bolt. This hasn't stopped me in the past, but the garage is getting crowded with all the tools. Maybe Chris will rent me his tool. Thanks.

 

It is possible and not too difficult. It WAS my preferred method. Until I broke my t50 driver off in God-likes-tebow's Alternator.

The Alt shaft will accept a T50 ... I bought a T50 "L" wrench, cut about a 1.5" off and stuck it in a 8mm (5/16") socket.
Then, I took a 15/16" 6-point socket (24mm is the correct size, but fits slightly looser) and welded a 3/4" wrench (out of my box of Taiwanese tools destined for customization that I keep around) to the socket.

it took between 70 and 100 foot pounds to break the nut free on the first 4 or 5 alts (holding the T50 with a torque wrench helped me quantify this) .... THEN I was changing the pulleys on god-likes-tebow's SRT6 and the T50 snapped off (at about 120 foot pounds IIRC) ....

So I bit the bullet and slipped the 2 clips that hold the fan shroud off, unplugged the fan and pulled out the shroud. I have 5 or more 1/2" impact guns, so I picked one of the shorter ones and had the pulley off in a jiff .... the impact method is 5 minutes faster as it turns out.

worth mentioning, I like to slip a piece of sheet metal (8" x 8" or larger alum or steel) up against the fins of the radiator when working near it (particularly with an impact) so i don't lay (bend) any fins over accidentally.

here are a couple of pics of the tools I made for this .... but impact is really the quickest way.

CHeers,
Chris

 

Thanks for the info, Chris. I'll get the socket welded up tomorrow and that should make short work of it.

 

Want to switch garages? I like all the projects you ahve in that pic. What mercedes is that on the left?

 

That is the 2002 SLK32 I picked up to replace my current slk32 as the DD. The current DD (parked next to the SL55) is also a 2002 and has given me 85,000 trouble-free (high speed : ) miles over the last 4 years; it will be replaced by this fresher one I picked up last march (with only 17,000 miles ). Not in this shot is my 3rd 2002 slk32 which has only 12,000 miles (I purchased that one with front end damage as a parts car).

As far as switching garages... I've already traded in 2 wives to keep it ... don't think I'll give it up now


Cheers,
Chris

 

i knew there was a reason I liked you. You wear out wives like cars. Expensive too.

 

The big difference is that I understand cars ... women are a bit more complex

 

A man's got to have priorities !

 

Sounds like you are following ONEHUNDRED80's advice to change your woman when you change your oil. LOL

 

So if you're like Chris with four carsand straight priorities that would be every 24,000 miles she gets to stay?

 

I received a call from Chris (LateModel) with some good advice on a new Kobalt ratchet set at Lowes. Tools purchased and pulley swapped. Thanks for the call.

IMG_20130302_164221_560_zps8eece3e3.jpg

 

how much did those tools set ya back at lowes?

 

The ratchet, socket, and torx were around $35.

 

Sweet, thanks for posting the pics

 

To those that may be new to working on cars I do not think that the use of torque wrenches should be suggested as tools to remove bolts.
Torque wrenches are instruments and not tools meant to apply brute force.

 

I used a ratchet with the torx when removing the pulley. Once removed, I grabbed the torque wrench and set it to 80 ft lbs and attached the torx. I then turned the nut using the Kobalt ratchet until the torque wrench clicked. I think it was done properly.

As for removing nuts with a torque wrench, I've read it's perfectly fine as long as you don't exceed the maximum setting on the wrench. For example, if it takes 150 ft lbs to remove a nut, but the wrench only reads to 100 ft lbs - you could damage the wrench. Otherwise it's perfectly fine.

Regardless, to each his on, but thanks for the heads-up. I know you mean well.

 

I am not saying you did it wrong as long as the wrench was set to the max wrench setting and you did not exceed that setting.

I am suggesting that someone could get the idea that it is OK to use a torque wrench to undo nuts on an every day basis. Torque wrenches should be used as little as possible as after a lot of use they need to be re calibrated. A 24" breaker bar is cheaper than a new torque wrench.

I once saw a perfectly good Snap On torque wrench reduced to scrap metal when someone tried to break a rusted nut loose.

Using the right tool for the job is a good motto to follow to keep your tools in good shape.

 

I couldn't agree with you more.