Battery Drain Problem
I have 04 Cope and it experience, like others,a battery drain. I connected an ammeter in series with the battery, it showed adrain of 70 mA most of the time. If I disconnect fuse #9 (Dome light, remote, etc.),the drain drops to 60 mA, but the remote will be disabled. If I disconnect fuse# 9 and 35 (radiofrequency & remote) together, the drain drops to 40mA,however the car won’t run. I turned the dome light off and disconnected thetrunk light bulb as well. Now, with fuse #9 out, the battery last only 3 daysif the key is on. It will last 7 days with the key off. It seems that the drainis mainly generated from the security system, sometimes, the lights flash forno reason. Have any one encountered any of these problems and I wonder if anyone have any thoughts about this problem.
If lights are randomly flashing then it is either the battery going bad or B-2's are flying over your car and one of devices on that billion dollar plane is interfering with your alarm. It happened to me a lot.
If a 60 ma drain is taking your battery down in three days, replace the battery. With the key off, there IS some drain due to the uP's in the various modules "keeping alive". I have measured mine (my car is 1,000 miles from me right now) but I can't remember what the number was.
Gone are the days of ZERO drain with the key off, cars today have micro-p's that need to be kept 'refreshed' and alarm systems that run all the time.
If you are leaving the key on (and I"m sure you are not, must be a slip of the keyboard!) then stop doing that!
Gone are the days of ZERO drain with the key off, cars today have micro-p's that need to be kept 'refreshed' and alarm systems that run all the time.
If you are leaving the key on (and I"m sure you are not, must be a slip of the keyboard!) then stop doing that!
I missed the comment about the flashing lights - get a new battery, NOW.
Also, thanks for putting an ammeter in line, makes it easier to diagnose than when people just say, "it drains the battery" or "I get a spark when I put the cable on the terminal"!
Also, thanks for putting an ammeter in line, makes it easier to diagnose than when people just say, "it drains the battery" or "I get a spark when I put the cable on the terminal"!
Thank all you for your input. Let me clarify when I said key on, I meant keyleft in the ignition, but the ignition is off. The drain still persists if thekey is left in the ignition or out of the ignition. The battery is not theoriginal and it is about 4 years old. I intend to take it to the shop to checkit out. I experimented by removing the spoiler’s fuse off the fuse box, thatdid not help either.
How do you test for drain, is this the correct way before I do it?
1. Put multimeter in 10A DC mode
2. remove negative cable lead off the battery terminal
3. touch one end of the multimeter probe to the negative cable lead
4. touch other end of the multimeter probe to the negative battery terminal
So ultimately your measuring the current running through the negative terminal on the battery between the vehicle and the battery for any drain? and if its above 50-60mA at or below your fine (since the computer uses some drain anyway when car is OFF)
And if you over this 50-60mA you may have something draining too much current when vehicle is OFF and thus draining your battery overnight?
1. Put multimeter in 10A DC mode
2. remove negative cable lead off the battery terminal
3. touch one end of the multimeter probe to the negative cable lead
4. touch other end of the multimeter probe to the negative battery terminal
So ultimately your measuring the current running through the negative terminal on the battery between the vehicle and the battery for any drain? and if its above 50-60mA at or below your fine (since the computer uses some drain anyway when car is OFF)
And if you over this 50-60mA you may have something draining too much current when vehicle is OFF and thus draining your battery overnight?
My 06 factory manuals list 35 ma as the parasitic draw and a warning that this is enoughf to drain a poor / fair battery in approx 20 days to a possible no start condition .
Cheers
Mongoose57
Cheers
Mongoose57
How do you test for drain, is this the correct way before I do it?
1. Put multimeter in 10A DC mode
2. remove negative cable lead off the battery terminal
3. touch one end of the multimeter probe to the negative cable lead
4. touch other end of the multimeter probe to the negative battery terminal
So ultimately your measuring the current running through the negative terminal on the battery between the vehicle and the battery for any drain? and if its above 50-60mA at or below your fine (since the computer uses some drain anyway when car is OFF)
And if you over this 50-60mA you may have something draining too much current when vehicle is OFF and thus draining your battery overnight?
1. Put multimeter in 10A DC mode
2. remove negative cable lead off the battery terminal
3. touch one end of the multimeter probe to the negative cable lead
4. touch other end of the multimeter probe to the negative battery terminal
So ultimately your measuring the current running through the negative terminal on the battery between the vehicle and the battery for any drain? and if its above 50-60mA at or below your fine (since the computer uses some drain anyway when car is OFF)
And if you over this 50-60mA you may have something draining too much current when vehicle is OFF and thus draining your battery overnight?
I've spent 31 years in land mobile radio, the complaint that "Something is draining my battery" is quite common, but USUALLY the problem is the battery, not some device draining the battery.
The other problem, is equipment (sound systems, video systems, etc.) that are connected such that they are not really off or disconnected when they should be.
I have seen Ford Crown Vic Police cruisers with a factory drain of about 40 to 110 mA, with no explanation of the variation. Any drain of less than 100 mA is PROBABLY as good as you can get it - but remember, this number is WITHOUT ANY AFTERMARKET stuff connected!
Do you mean in the service manual, and if so, where?
And what you are stating works out to be only 16.8 Amp-Hour of drain. HOWEVER, storage batteries like to deliver HUNDREDS of amps for a short time, not small current for a LONG time. Still, I can't see 20 days being the end, maybe 60 or 90!
The battery checks out Ok and rated better than expected.The only thing left to worry about are ground contact, alternator and starter.My question: is a battery drain can be related to an alternate when the caris off and key is off? The alternator is putting out about 14.3 volts, is thiscan be misleading and no enough amps are delivered to the battery? I wouldappreciate your input.
Where did you find a current draw listed in the manual? I have NEVER seen one published in ANY manual.
Do you mean in the service manual, and if so, where?
And what you are stating works out to be only 16.8 Amp-Hour of drain. HOWEVER, storage batteries like to deliver HUNDREDS of amps for a short time, not small current for a LONG time. Still, I can't see 20 days being the end, maybe 60 or 90!
Do you mean in the service manual, and if so, where?
And what you are stating works out to be only 16.8 Amp-Hour of drain. HOWEVER, storage batteries like to deliver HUNDREDS of amps for a short time, not small current for a LONG time. Still, I can't see 20 days being the end, maybe 60 or 90!
STANDARD PROCEDURE - IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST
The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with
the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five to thirty-five milliamperes
(0.005 to 0.035 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper
working order. Up to thirty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control
Module (PCM), and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment.
A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate
level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty days or more (stored), remove the negative battery cable from the
battery. This will reduce battery discharging.
Excessive IOD can be caused by:
² Electrical items left on.
² Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
² Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.
² An internally shorted generator.
² Intermittent shorts in the wiring.
If the IOD is over thirty-five milliamperes, the problem must be found and corrected before replacing a battery. In
most cases, the battery can be charged and returned to service after the excessive IOD condition has been corrected.
1. Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close all doors. If the
vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer
function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out). This may take up to three minutes. See the Electronic
Module Ignition-Off Draw Table for more information.
It is under Battery System in the Service Manual.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST
The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with
the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five to thirty-five milliamperes
(0.005 to 0.035 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper
working order. Up to thirty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control
Module (PCM), and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment.
A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate
level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty days or more (stored), remove the negative battery cable from the
battery. This will reduce battery discharging.
Excessive IOD can be caused by:
² Electrical items left on.
² Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
² Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.
² An internally shorted generator.
² Intermittent shorts in the wiring.
If the IOD is over thirty-five milliamperes, the problem must be found and corrected before replacing a battery. In
most cases, the battery can be charged and returned to service after the excessive IOD condition has been corrected.
1. Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close all doors. If the
vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer
function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out). This may take up to three minutes. See the Electronic
Module Ignition-Off Draw Table for more information.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST
The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with
the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five to thirty-five milliamperes
(0.005 to 0.035 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper
working order. Up to thirty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control
Module (PCM), and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment.
A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate
level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty days or more (stored), remove the negative battery cable from the
battery. This will reduce battery discharging.
Excessive IOD can be caused by:
² Electrical items left on.
² Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
² Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.
² An internally shorted generator.
² Intermittent shorts in the wiring.
If the IOD is over thirty-five milliamperes, the problem must be found and corrected before replacing a battery. In
most cases, the battery can be charged and returned to service after the excessive IOD condition has been corrected.
1. Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close all doors. If the
vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer
function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out). This may take up to three minutes. See the Electronic
Module Ignition-Off Draw Table for more information.
The battery was charged and the drain test was repeatedovernight. It is still draining 70-80 mA. I tested the alternator, it is puttingout 14.5 V on idle, headlights off, and when I changed the voltmeter to the ACscale, it showed 31 Ac volts. This indicates a diode in the alternator isleaking. The next step is to disconnect the alternator and measure the batterydrain. Is anyone know if a diode pack or a voltage regulator is available forxfire? Can the diode be replaced? I hope this may solve the battery drain.
It is under Battery System in the Service Manual.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST
The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with
the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five to thirty-five milliamperes
(0.005 to 0.035 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper
working order. Up to thirty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control
Module (PCM), and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment.
A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate
level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty days or more (stored), remove the negative battery cable from the
battery. This will reduce battery discharging.
Excessive IOD can be caused by:
² Electrical items left on.
² Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
² Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.
² An internally shorted generator.
² Intermittent shorts in the wiring.
If the IOD is over thirty-five milliamperes, the problem must be found and corrected before replacing a battery. In
most cases, the battery can be charged and returned to service after the excessive IOD condition has been corrected.
1. Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close all doors. If the
vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer
function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out). This may take up to three minutes. See the Electronic
Module Ignition-Off Draw Table for more information.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST
The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with
the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five to thirty-five milliamperes
(0.005 to 0.035 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper
working order. Up to thirty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control
Module (PCM), and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment.
A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate
level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty days or more (stored), remove the negative battery cable from the
battery. This will reduce battery discharging.
Excessive IOD can be caused by:
² Electrical items left on.
² Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
² Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.
² An internally shorted generator.
² Intermittent shorts in the wiring.
If the IOD is over thirty-five milliamperes, the problem must be found and corrected before replacing a battery. In
most cases, the battery can be charged and returned to service after the excessive IOD condition has been corrected.
1. Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close all doors. If the
vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer
function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out). This may take up to three minutes. See the Electronic
Module Ignition-Off Draw Table for more information.
The battery was charged and the drain test was repeatedovernight. It is still draining 70-80 mA. I tested the alternator, it is puttingout 14.5 V on idle, headlights off, and when I changed the voltmeter to the ACscale, it showed 31 Ac volts. This indicates a diode in the alternator isleaking. The next step is to disconnect the alternator and measure the batterydrain. Is anyone know if a diode pack or a voltage regulator is available forxfire? Can the diode be replaced? I hope this may solve the battery drain.
My '06 draws 15 ma with ignition off. Looks like a bad diode would be a leak path.
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http://aspwholesale.com/images/gener...torCircuit.gif
Last edited by bspence; Apr 16, 2013 at 01:05 AM.
The battery was charged and the drain test was repeatedovernight. It is still draining 70-80 mA. I tested the alternator, it is puttingout 14.5 V on idle, headlights off, and when I changed the voltmeter to the ACscale, it showed 31 Ac volts. This indicates a diode in the alternator isleaking. The next step is to disconnect the alternator and measure the batterydrain. Is anyone know if a diode pack or a voltage regulator is available forxfire? Can the diode be replaced? I hope this may solve the battery drain.

31 ac volts???? 31? Damn! Yea, disconnect the big, fat lead on the alternator and see what your current is.
With 14.3 votls, I'd think the current available is fine - EXCEPT for this excessive AC voltage you mention!
I suspect a bad alternator and no, I don't think parts are easy to find for these.
The battery was charged and the drain test was repeatedovernight. It is still draining 70-80 mA. I tested the alternator, it is puttingout 14.5 V on idle, headlights off, and when I changed the voltmeter to the ACscale, it showed 31 Ac volts. This indicates a diode in the alternator isleaking. The next step is to disconnect the alternator and measure the batterydrain. Is anyone know if a diode pack or a voltage regulator is available forxfire? Can the diode be replaced? I hope this may solve the battery drain.


