An alternator produces alternating current, several high current, internally mounted diodes are necessary to convert that AC to direct current for a cars electrical system. A shot diode is a shot alternator, replace the alternator.

 

The voltage regulator is available from different sourcesfor about $50.http://www.drivewire.com/has it for $53, Bosch brand. Would replace the voltage regulator, rather thanthe whole alternator, replace the diodes? That would save $70. I believe thediodes are built in the voltage regulator and not in the core of thealternator. I can be wrong.

 

Our alternators have an INTERNAL regulator - not so sure you can change it.

However......
It IS possible the rectifiers are part of the internal regulator, let us know what you find out!

 

The regulator excites the rotor via the slip rings causing the alternator to produce current, the regulator turns the alternator on and off. When voltage is applied to the rotor thru the slip rings by the regulator, the field windings produce alternating current that is rectified to direct current by the diodes connected to the field windings. The diodes are pressed into the alternator housing to dissipate heat from the current passing thru them. Re-builders replace diodes as necessary along with bearings, brushes and the regulator module.

 

I also hear there are two different alternators for our cars. Just saying!

 

The alternator checked out OK, with the alternator cabledisconnected, the battery drain is 65 mA. The only fuse showed a drop in thedrain is fuse #9, the battery drain drops to 45mA which is about normal. Fuse#9 is hot at all time and it feeds the remote control, the instrumental panel andthe A/C heater control module. It is evident that one of these devices ispulling 20 additional mA than is required. Is anyone has any thoughts about myobservation?

 

Just did a regulator on my Srt6 today after 140000 miles and the brushes were shot. I also replaced the factory chassis to motor ground as it had corroded, and changed out the battery cable while I was at it. Car runs much better now.

 

This is an up-date regarding the battery drain. Fuse # 9 is responsible for a drain of an additional 20 mA. Here are my findings: With fuse#9 in its place and doors are unlocked, the drain is 65 mA. The drain is reduced to 55 mA when doors are locked. When fuse #9 is removed, the drain is reduced to 45mA when doors are unlocked and 32mA when doors are locked. It is obvious that the door lock and security system are causing a drain of an additional 20mA. It is also obvious that the door locks have something to do with the drain. The car drives normally with fuse #9 removed, except that the remote locking is disabled, it has to be done manually. Any thoughts about finding the fault in the doors will be appreciated. Is the rear door has anything to do with the drain?

 

I would check the trunk. Passenger side in the fender for water and a potential bad ground. Also check the glovebox switch as there have been a few cases of intermittent behavior and it is tied into that same circuit

 

Do you know what to check in the trunk? Is there a switch or wires need to be inspected? I removed the bulb from the light housing which did not help. Recently, I had the right fender drain cleaned and the negative cable between the battery and the fender removed cleaned and installed. Do you know any other ground connection in that area needs to be checked out? Is any connection(s) at the cowl under the plastic cover that may be related? Any help is very much appreciated.

 

Engine to chassis ground is located at the transmission bell housing on the driver side.
Passenger side trunk you will see a foam wrapped box that is the central locking pump and alarm module. There are a few hounds back there. Brown wires bolted to body.

 

Thank you Infinity for your valuable suggestions. I cleaned the ground cable between the chassis and the transmission, checked the air pumpand its ground, took the glove compartment light bulb out, all that did not help. It is still draining 75 mA. If I remove fuse #9, the drain drops to 35mA. Certainly, F9 is contributing to the drain, and it controls the doom and trunk lights, and the security and antitheft relay/module. When I install F9 back in its place, I can hear a click under the dash. I am currently driving the car without F9, the doom and trunk lights are disabled as well as the remote locking control. Do you have any experience with the antitheft relay? Is there any thread regarding problems with this relay? Thanks again.

 

If all those looked good, then you have narrowed it down to the central locking pump module which houses the brains of the security system, vacuum pump for the door locks, and as you indicated the interior lights.

There can be a few things that have or are happening.

1) SRT6 models have reports (including myself) of water leaks that enter the car either from the rear wing panel seal or in some instances the rubber gasket that sits between the gas filler neck and the interior of the car. If water gets in there and is not caught in time then the level rises up and soaks the central locking pump module as the factory did not leave any drain holes open, they are instead plugged with rubber plugs.

2) You may have a situation where you have a vacuum leak in the door locking system which may be causing the pump to run to maintain vacuum in the door lock system and as such producing a draw above normal rest. The challenge here is to find the leak which means you must check all the yellow tubing from the module to the doors and trunk latch. You may be able to plug the ports on the module and see if the draw stops to confirm if indeed this is the case.

3) Recheck the glove box - the light is different than the relay on the switch. Its easy to pop out just unplug the entire switch assembly. In my case the relay was hanging up internally and would trigger the alarm at random. Not saying this is happening to you but the relay can draw without the light going on.

 

Fuse #9 controls a few components and if it cuts the draw by half when it is removed then I would suggest unplugging these component one by one and seeing which component is causing the draw.

This may take some time but could directly pinpoint the fault.

 

Thank you for the valuable information. When I checked the pump,the housing in the trunk was dry; there is no sign of water. I measured the drain continuously during the day and night with doors locked and unlocked. This went on for several days, the drain was pretty consistent. When the doors were unlocked overnight, wouldn’t you think that the pump will quit searching if there is a vacuum leak? Then the drain should drop, that is not the case because the drain is the same overnight. When I drive, the doors lock without F9 on, when I open the driver door, the other door and the trunk unlock, indicating the availability of vacuum. However, it is a good idea to unplug the pump and see. I shall be reporting my findings when I get to the pump again.

 

Hello,
I have a battery drain problem.
I saved this 2004 base model car from the weeds and I am very familar with almost everything.
My Fluke on dc amps shows 9 amps not ma. switch the leads and then I get 4 Amps also not ma.
A brand new Optima wont last overnight and my original optima was fine after getting it out of car.
This is quite a lot of drain cant do much else in the middle of ice storm.
The difference in amps sounds like a diode.
Any opiinions would really be appreciated.
Did the stickey key mod when I first got the car it was one of the reasons it was in the weeds.
Help
Thanks to every one.
Kem

 

Hi Kem, might have been a better solution to make a new post, seeing as this one has been dead for so long. About your battery drain, there are quite a few help topics already discussing this issue, have you done a search for 'battery drain' yet? Good luck!


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I have an 04 Crossfire and I have had issues with my battery draining. I have made liberal use of a number of the suggestions found on this form. I am very appreciative of all the info and insight. I have been through a number of battery replacements and after eliminating the battery as the problem, moved on to what I thought was the problem. I disconnected the alarm after reading that it could be the issue. At first I thought that it had cured the problem No battery drain for a few weeks. But alas same issue returned. Now here is what I think could be the problem. I have an indicator on my dash that indicates I have a bulb out. I verified that all the interior and exterior lights were functioning and didn’t see any fixtures that were not lighting. I finally found that one of the two license plat lights was out. I replaced the bulb and it still did not light. I checked and replaced the fuse, still no light. I determined that I was not getting any current to the fixture. Here is my question could this be the source of my parasitic drain. If I drive the car daily, no problems with the battery. If it sits for a week, I have to charge the battery. Could there be a broken wire to that fixture? Is the fixture itself bad? Suggestions.?