Flashing low fuel indicator lamp
Today When I pulled up at the house, I looked down and the low fuel lamp was flashing. Tank was 1/2 full. Cap on tight. When I started the car the next time the check engine light was on. I checked the pdf manual here and it says nothing about the lamp flashing only on steady. I did not have time to go to Advance/Auto zone to have code read. Anyone have any ideas.
Thanks
Thanks
It's actually flashing? If so here you go.. Personally my drive time with that would be as minimal as possible.
"If the check engine light is flashing, that usually indicates a misfire or other serious issue, and it should be dealt with quickly at an auto repair shop. Ignoring a flashing light increases the chances of additional problems, including damaging an expensive catalytic converter (which costs more than $1,000 to replace on some cars). "
"If the check engine light is flashing, that usually indicates a misfire or other serious issue, and it should be dealt with quickly at an auto repair shop. Ignoring a flashing light increases the chances of additional problems, including damaging an expensive catalytic converter (which costs more than $1,000 to replace on some cars). "
The fuel low lamp was flashing not the check engine light but after I restarted the car the check engine light was on steady and the fuel lamp was out.
Ahhh.. good then.. If the low fuel light hasn't come back on "out of the ordinary" again.. I wouldn't worry about it. Haven't ran down the circuit on the fuel sender myself so I couldn't offer much on that. But do get the CEL code pulled to see what's up there. Someone may log in later with a valid .02's worth on the fuel light.
[rant] On another forum it always amazes me that people will spen $40k on a new car and balk at a $20 (dongle and Android software, iPhones cost mere) investment that can read engine parameters and diagnostics. You can spend that at MickeyD's.
In the last century it cost more: $40 for an OTC 2000 with "All in One" cartridge but today, even if you have an old 2010 vintage smart phone, it is easy.
True, if you plan to just leave the dongle in the Crossie like many do, a "mini" adapter is a good idea, is not much knee room.
But once you have one you can read parameters, engine codes, run tests, clear codes, and even e-mail yourself the report.
Personally, I'd never go look at a used car without one. (Have seen people disable the CEL before).
[/rant]
In the last century it cost more: $40 for an OTC 2000 with "All in One" cartridge but today, even if you have an old 2010 vintage smart phone, it is easy.
True, if you plan to just leave the dongle in the Crossie like many do, a "mini" adapter is a good idea, is not much knee room.
But once you have one you can read parameters, engine codes, run tests, clear codes, and even e-mail yourself the report.
Personally, I'd never go look at a used car without one. (Have seen people disable the CEL before).
[/rant]
I agree but I am old school. I would rather buy cars, guns, and motorcycles and have the code read for free than pay $500 for a phone married with $60 a month bill. 
The computer in my other car is a set of points.
DSC00051_zpsarjdqzrp.jpg
The computer in my other car is a set of points.
DSC00051_zpsarjdqzrp.jpg
[rant] On another forum it always amazes me that people will spen $40k on a new car and balk at a $20 (dongle and Android software, iPhones cost mere) investment that can read engine parameters and diagnostics. You can spend that at MickeyD's.
In the last century it cost more: $40 for an OTC 2000 with "All in One" cartridge but today, even if you have an old 2010 vintage smart phone, it is easy.
True, if you plan to just leave the dongle in the Crossie like many do, a "mini" adapter is a good idea, is not much knee room.
But once you have one you can read parameters, engine codes, run tests, clear codes, and even e-mail yourself the report.
Personally, I'd never go look at a used car without one. (Have seen people disable the CEL before).
[/rant]
In the last century it cost more: $40 for an OTC 2000 with "All in One" cartridge but today, even if you have an old 2010 vintage smart phone, it is easy.
True, if you plan to just leave the dongle in the Crossie like many do, a "mini" adapter is a good idea, is not much knee room.
But once you have one you can read parameters, engine codes, run tests, clear codes, and even e-mail yourself the report.
Personally, I'd never go look at a used car without one. (Have seen people disable the CEL before).
[/rant]
Guess you could go old school.. and look to see if all the dash lights fire off when you turn the ignition to the on position.
I was around when this 19?? Buick Boattail Biggie Piggie was built but I can't remember what it was called except maybe a Regal. Actually ran across a set of points in my old tool box left over from the '70s. Go to Harbor Freight & get an OBDII Scan Tool. Here in CA the parts stores are not allowed to read codes by state law.---Stan
Today When I pulled up at the house, I looked down and the low fuel lamp was flashing. Tank was 1/2 full. Cap on tight. When I started the car the next time the check engine light was on. I checked the pdf manual here and it says nothing about the lamp flashing only on steady. I did not have time to go to Advance/Auto zone to have code read. Anyone have any ideas.
Thanks
Thanks
Last edited by robby363; Feb 10, 2015 at 10:59 AM.
I was around when this 19?? Buick Boattail Biggie Piggie was built but I can't remember what it was called except maybe a Regal. Actually ran across a set of points in my old tool box left over from the '70s. Go to Harbor Freight & get an OBDII Scan Tool. Here in CA the parts stores are not allowed to read codes by state law.---Stan
1971 or 1972 Buick Riviera
I searched here well before I posted and didn't find much. When I went to google and searched it linked back here with several threads. The last time I got gas I did let it click once then tried little more. It pumped about 1 second then clicked again. I stopped after that. I got a new gas cap just for the hell of it, the little retaining strap was broken. I disconnected the battery to clear the code and waiting to see if it comes back on.
Thanks everyone.
Oh it's a 71, 72 didn't have the louvers in the trunk.
Thanks everyone.
Oh it's a 71, 72 didn't have the louvers in the trunk.
I searched here well before I posted and didn't find much. When I went to google and searched it linked back here with several threads. The last time I got gas I did let it click once then tried little more. It pumped about 1 second then clicked again. I stopped after that. I got a new gas cap just for the hell of it, the little retaining strap was broken. I disconnected the battery to clear the code and waiting to see if it comes back on.
Thanks everyone.
Oh it's a 71, 72 didn't have the louvers in the trunk.
Thanks everyone.
Oh it's a 71, 72 didn't have the louvers in the trunk.
"The 1971 Riviera also features GM's "Full-Flo" ventilation system and two large deck lid louvers are prominent on the trunk lid. (Unfortunately, under certain conditions a vacuum was created that sucked rain and exhaust back into the car and the "Full-Flo" ventilation was redesigned and the louvers were removed from trunk lid for the 1972 model year)."
Had he taken 5 minutes to show up to Autozone and gotten the code read out for free that's what would have popped up.
There are several good threads on this forum dealing with the issue. In most cases without other check engine codes popping up at the same time (which we don't know) the gas cap is at fault. There was one guy on the forum who "fixed" his gas cap by replacing the seal around the cap and making it air tight again for less than a dollar. But of course you can also just go and buy a new gas cap as long as it fits.
Hope that takes care of the problem for you!
There are several good threads on this forum dealing with the issue. In most cases without other check engine codes popping up at the same time (which we don't know) the gas cap is at fault. There was one guy on the forum who "fixed" his gas cap by replacing the seal around the cap and making it air tight again for less than a dollar. But of course you can also just go and buy a new gas cap as long as it fits.
Hope that takes care of the problem for you!
It has so far. First I went to Advance Auto because they has the Mercedes (Stant 10845) gas cap in stock. They tried reading the code and their reader just kept saying no link. I was getting nervous because I had just got the car and was thinking the dealer was pulling a fast one on me somehow. I went to Auto Zone and their reader hooked right up and showed the correct code I was thinking (p0455). So all is well so far. I saw the thread where the guy flipped the seal over and it fixed his.
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