no start - appreciate any input
05 crossfire srt-6 with 54k miles, filters/fluids replaced <5k ago, basically stock except for aftermarket plug wires, DCAI, tune, sprint booster. Crank position sensor is <10k old and a genuine part. Battery 2 years old. I haven't touched anything on the car in months other than changing tires, it's been a daily driver.
I was driving on a hot day (95 degrees F) and pulled over to park on the street after driving two short trips that day, 1 hr apart. Noticed that the parking meter wasn't going to allow me to park long enough so I was going to move and find other parking. I turned the key and the car turned over and started, but died immediately. Repeated this again, turn over, fire, die. The third time it would not turn over.
I popped the hood, found both battery terminals fairly corroded (more than I have ever seen on this car - battery is 2 years old). So I cleaned them both off and reconnected. Started up and died immediately x2. No check engine light, no codes stored. I disconnected the battery and pulled the RCM out. The solder looks okay compared to pictures I've seen online of good and bad ones. I checked and the fuel rail is pressurized, I've yet to quantify the amount of pressure. All fuses look good. No issues with batteries in the keys or anything like that.
I'm hoping this isnt SKREEM, as I had the car towed home to my garage at expense and I don't believe I can fix that myself?
RCM looks okay but I'm considering sending it to tighted1 just to be certain. I'll read up on how to test it.
The car cranks and fires so I figure the battery and cables are fine.
Any advice? Thanks.
edit-added pictures of RCM and negative battery cable. The resistance across the battery cable is zero but it looks pretty bad. The RCM pins each have 0 ohms between them, and the outside most has 75 ohms resistance between it and the inner two pairs, while the inner two pairs have no resistance between them. Sounds normal?
I was driving on a hot day (95 degrees F) and pulled over to park on the street after driving two short trips that day, 1 hr apart. Noticed that the parking meter wasn't going to allow me to park long enough so I was going to move and find other parking. I turned the key and the car turned over and started, but died immediately. Repeated this again, turn over, fire, die. The third time it would not turn over.
I popped the hood, found both battery terminals fairly corroded (more than I have ever seen on this car - battery is 2 years old). So I cleaned them both off and reconnected. Started up and died immediately x2. No check engine light, no codes stored. I disconnected the battery and pulled the RCM out. The solder looks okay compared to pictures I've seen online of good and bad ones. I checked and the fuel rail is pressurized, I've yet to quantify the amount of pressure. All fuses look good. No issues with batteries in the keys or anything like that.
I'm hoping this isnt SKREEM, as I had the car towed home to my garage at expense and I don't believe I can fix that myself?
RCM looks okay but I'm considering sending it to tighted1 just to be certain. I'll read up on how to test it.
The car cranks and fires so I figure the battery and cables are fine.
Any advice? Thanks.
edit-added pictures of RCM and negative battery cable. The resistance across the battery cable is zero but it looks pretty bad. The RCM pins each have 0 ohms between them, and the outside most has 75 ohms resistance between it and the inner two pairs, while the inner two pairs have no resistance between them. Sounds normal?
Last edited by unarel32; Sep 1, 2015 at 02:37 PM. Reason: adding images
My car did more or less the same thing and yes, it was the RCM unfortunately ….. or fortunately. Do all the lights/accessories work? If so, most likely a fault in the RCM.
Les
Les
No, not RCM, the SKREEM.
This is a classic SKREEM symptom, I do believe. (Sorry)
It's that "third time nothing" that points to SKREEM.
So, SCREAM, we understand.
This is a classic SKREEM symptom, I do believe. (Sorry)
It's that "third time nothing" that points to SKREEM.
So, SCREAM, we understand.
Sorry, my only other suggestion is you did mention you had fuel pressure, but maybe check it with a gauge, while starting the car.
No lights flashing, or unlock issues, correct?
No lights flashing, or unlock issues, correct?
no flashing lights or unlock issues...I'll check fuel pressure tomorrow morning and get back.
Fuel pressure is actually about 50 psi while starting. I replaced the RCM with a new one and have the same two starts, two dies, no more starts problem. I guess I'll call the dealer tuesday!
RCM looks okay but I'm considering sending it to tighted1 just to be certain. I'll read up on how to test it.
edit-added pictures of RCM and negative battery cable. The resistance across the battery cable is zero but it looks pretty bad. The RCM pins each have 0 ohms between them, and the outside most has 75 ohms resistance between it and the inner two pairs, while the inner two pairs have no resistance between them. Sounds normal?
Have you looked in the trunk at the locking module for signs of water? Water in the CAN bus lines can simulate a SKREEM issue.
Sorry, it was on Facebook. He also had door locking issues witch pointed to the locking module thus finding the water.
All evidence points to the SKREEM.
I would plug and unplug all connections to as many modules that I could find just in case it's a poor connection at a plug.
I would also check to see if any codes have been set, you never know.
I cannot find where he had lock/unlock problems or mention the trunk module except by you.
All evidence points to the SKREEM.
I would plug and unplug all connections to as many modules that I could find just in case it's a poor connection at a plug.
I would also check to see if any codes have been set, you never know.
All evidence points to the SKREEM.
I would plug and unplug all connections to as many modules that I could find just in case it's a poor connection at a plug.
I would also check to see if any codes have been set, you never know.
The RCM is new from Mercedes. The car very rarely sees water in southern California. I did replace the hatch lock mechanism last year because of noise when going over bumps that electrical tape couldn't solve. No codes. I'll try reconnecting some things but I'm losing hope!
The post does not start with the picture. Search "Chrysler Crossfire owners" with FOB or locking or no start to find the thread. The connector was corroded to the point of missing pins.
I found a dealer that supposedly has a crossfire technician. There used to be one 2 miles from my house but it closed down, so now I'm looking at a 10 mile tow! Yuck.
Any possibility of a local shop being able to replace/reprogram SKREEM? The closest dealer that can fix this is 23 miles away!
Any possibility of a local shop being able to replace/reprogram SKREEM? The closest dealer that can fix this is 23 miles away!
Last edited by unarel32; Sep 8, 2015 at 02:06 PM.
I found a dealer that supposedly has a crossfire technician. There used to be one 2 miles from my house but it closed down, so now I'm looking at a 10 mile tow! Yuck.
Any possibility of a local shop being able to replace/reprogram SKREEM? The closest dealer that can fix this is 23 miles away!
Any possibility of a local shop being able to replace/reprogram SKREEM? The closest dealer that can fix this is 23 miles away!


