Starter and solenoid?

 

Okay,I let car sit and run for a bit,lights off..I shut car down and surprisingly it restarted.Then I turned on headlights and all hell broke lose.Spoiler light started blinking and dash lights flickering.Shut it down and no start...I've read this somewhere on here before.
Oh and pardon my frustration and forget fullness to thank everyone for all advise given.
Thanks for the help that has been given.

 

Start with BRAND NEW BATTERY and make sure the ground cable to the fenderwell is 100% corrosion free.
Go from there to a new alternator if needed.

It's probably that simple.

Drive over here and I'll help ya !

Decatur -> Lineville about 110 miles, I should know, I lived in Stone Mountain for 20 years and made almost monthly trips to where I live now. In-laws lived here then.

 

Charge your battery, do not turn on lights. Go to Autozone,an have them to run diagnostic. Even better; take ala_fire up on his offer. Removing battery cables was good for testing voltage regulators in 50s,60s,70s, NOT for newer models. I'm following your posts but can offer no better advice, at this point.

 

Okay,thanks
I should be receiving the alternator tomorrow .And replace the battery.Is the alternator a easy swap out?..I've been here for two years now. Actually from Port Saint luice,Fl. And ready to relocate lol.Lineville would be north of here?

 

You never did say if that 2.1 was volts during the run all accy on test of the ground wire, was it?

If you have a 2.1 volt drop from the batt post to the block I would inspect that cable before replacing the alternator.

 

Okay,Thanks..I will do that.I do notice that at end of neg terminal ,where clamp is, there is corrosion that keeps re-appearing

 

My first alternator cost me almost 2 1/2 hours of frustration. THe second one (NAPA replaced the defective unit free) took me 40 minutes.

There are two versions of the lug on the battery charge cable and two versions of housings on the alternators. I guess it's a crap shoot if you get the right one, I don't know. My second unit had the right physical configuration. If it is not right, you can use snips to cut away the offending plastic on the back of the alternator.

TO change a NON-SRT alternator:
1) Remove battery ground cable and tuck it away so it can't come in contact with the battery post.
2) Remove the engine fan assembly.
3) Remove the belt.
4) Remove the two bolts.
5) Wiggle and struggle the alternator from it's two mounting points.
(The next two steps may be reversed, based on the size of your hands, etc. If 7 looks easy, do it then do 6)
6) Unplug the electrical plug.
7) Using a socket and rachet, remove the battery post nut
8) Pivot, twist and harass the alternator out and toward the front of the car.
9) Tap the shims in the front mounting holes forward so the new alternator will slide in with some slop - makes putting the new alternator in there easier and putting the bolts in a breeze.
Now, start at 7) and go backwards.


To Change an SRT alternator:
1) Sell the damn car or call Chuk in FLorida for guidance.

 

Ok, I'm done editing the above post.

I think.

 

Due west on I20, then south on AL Hwy 9

 

A few additional hints to Mark's excellent instructions :
On removing the engine fan assembly : unplug the connector, remove the 2 top clips and it will come out with some coaxing by the various hoses.
If you have to remove the grooved alternator pulley, use a 1/2" air wrench to remove and reinstall the nut.
When putting the new alternator in, hook up the wires and cables, then mount it with the top bolt loosely. You can then swing it down and get the bottom bolt in.
If you have a 3/8" air ratchet, the job is MUCH easier.

 

Maybe not, what you call shims I'd call sleeves. If you can pry the old alternator forward while the two bolts are still in but loosened the alternator will just drop out. Prying the alternator forward moves the sleeves forward freeing it up from the clamping pressure of the sleeves. The sleeves can make life difficult if you do'nt do it.

 

Hi Everyone,
Well I'm happy to announce that she is back up and running
Must say I feel much better and will probably sleep better tonight,knowing she's back up and this is behind me.Replace alternator and battery.Alternator wasn't making power upon testing it on car running.12.3.. Tested for resistance ,none as far as a drain.After replacement got a reading of 14.3. Back of alternator was burned and melted around the wiring area.Lights brighter and all now.



This is the alternator

 

WHen mine went, I smelled it and saw the charge light come on. Raised the hood with engine running, and it was throwing sparks and smoke out the front and back!

It went up like Three Mile Island....

 

I have had problems with my battery, last month I found it dead flat, no interior lights at all, I put it on a trickle charger and it said it was fully charged after after a day. I thought that to be strange, today it was dead flat again. I found about 7 volts across the terminals. I suspect the battery has died during hibernation. With the battery flat none of the interior LEDs came on either. Can anyone please tell me why that was?
I think I will have to put my old OEM Varta back into the car I have kept it charged for the last four years.

 

Okay,I changed alternator and new battery $350 later and she been up and running.Thanks Everyone
Excuse the Re-post

 

Thanks for reporting back !!!!
See, I told ya so - see post #23 in this thread.

 

Thanks for the replies, but I figured it out myself.

 

What was the issue because my SRT-6 has ALWAYS done this since I stopped driving it every day.

 

I must say that I was being a bit cynical after nobody answered my query in a day or so.
I recharged the battery again and it did not happen again. No drain found above normal. I think I had left it uncharged too long and the battery tender said it was charged after a day when it actually was not charged enough. Recharging using the tender took three days or so and has just dropped a half volt since.
I am still a bit suspicious though.