Two days ago I was leaving work; My crossfire had been sitting maybe 7 hours or so as always. Started just fine, but after the high idle went away there was a quick stumble and a check engine light.
- Checked the DTC, Cylinder 4 misfire.
- Pulled both plugs, looked fine.
- Cleared the code and started the engine.
- Engine ran and idled fine.

Drove the vehicle the next day and night. Both city and highway with no issues. This morning I left for work and she started perfectly and idled perfectly.
- Drove 10 minutes in the city, nothing above 1/4 throttle and 35mph.
- Got onto the entrance ramp for the highway.
- 3rd gear accelerate and a HUGE stumble and it stalled out.
- Confused, I cranked the engine while coasting and nothing.
- Stopped on the side of the road and cranked again, nothing.
- Let it sit for 45 seconds to a minute, cranked and it started. With a check engine light.
- Idled ok at best, has throttle response but dies above 1/2 throttle.
- Attempt to go above 1/2 throttle and the car dies again.


To me, this seems like a fuel pump issue just from past experience and knowledge. But I also know that the Crossfire is a rare breed of odd resolutions and causes. 2005 Limited, 105,xxx miles. Well maintained and not beaten. Not significant changes in the last couple of months. Brakes and an oil change are about it. So nothing comes to mind that would hiccup.

Let me know your thoughts.

Thanks

 

Fuel pump or filter. Read the stored fault code.
Not enough fuel or pressure at the injectors.

 

Thanks onehundred.. Forgot to add that in there regarding fuel pump.

 

What was the code this time? CPS? (my guess)

 

Sounds like fuel starvation to me

 

I haven't had a chance to check the code this time. I was on my way to work so I parked it and jumped in the other car to head out. I'll check when I get home.

CPS wouldn't explain the behavior though. Typically I thought CPS was a crank no start situation. Mine is a crank start no acceleration issue. Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

I think 180 is on the money

 

I'm leading down that path as well. The more I read (every situation is unique) the more I'm seeing a semi-same situation.

 

As for fuel pump, from past experience, when they are getting iffy, after a fresh tank full of cold gas they will work better. That would be another indication of fuel flow issue, but down right shutting down then working again, not sure.
Check codes, check fuel pressure, both easy and cheap to do.

 

That's the hard part of reviewing other peoples similar issues. Typically there is lower RPM range, speed limited or most commonly simple no start situations. I'm hoping the DTCs show more than just a Misfire when I get home today.

 

Well..... I feel happy.

Replaced the fuel filter, looked to be the original. After that, the symptoms were still around. No codes yet except for the cylinder misfire (which became random) and the poor running conditions.

Checked the forum for more bs research just to try and get a grip on the issue. Found some talk about the RCM repair. Figured I'm great with my hands and it wasn't to intrusive. Repaired the RCM; there were a few cracks in the solder on 4 connections. Couldn't tell if they were intermittently connecting or not so I did the repair just to be safe.

Got the RCM repair done and it fired right up. Cleared the random misfire code and let her warm up. Went to take it for a spin and 30 feet into it, super stumble and stall.

Finally, the car wouldn't start and all and the infamous crank sensor P0335 I think it was came up. Got ahold of Rob at Needswings and got the Hella CPS. 30 second installation. Cleared the codes and went for a drive.

So far I've put about 50 or so miles on the new repairs and she is running beautifully. Thanks for the input here and thanks Rob for the quick shipment.

All is well in the hood now.

 

Actually, there is not much that can go wrong with a crank sensor, after all it is simply a magnet rod with wires wrapped around it and molded into the plastic.
The most common problem with a CPS is the connector getting corroded.
The reason most here say "Go Bosch or stay home" is that the aftermarket knock-off CPS sensors have thinner connecting pins and the connector doesn't make complete contact.
JMHO, I'm sure many will disagree.

 

I am convinced that most of the time a good cleaning of the connector would be all that is needed. I haven't had the opportunity to test my theory yet!

 

Its funny that you mentioned the width of the PINS. There is a significant difference in between the parts store ones and the Bosch/Hella.

One right out of the box difference I noticed was the pickup itself. The original CPS in my car was a Bosch, just out of curiosity I looked it over. On the Bosch/Carquest/Napa CPS, the pickup was what looked to be ground down but on the Hella from NW was more of a machined surface.

Either way, I checked out the connector just to make sure there weren't any parts missing or over stressed. Put in some dielectric grease and have been driving it since.

 

I did try the cleaning method. Just happen to be for my situation not the right option. But I do agree that simplicity typically can be the first thing to work.

 

I built one of the first "total loss" ignition systems back in the late 60's for a Yamaha dirt tracker bike using a "reluctance head" firing a transistor that fired the coil.
The reluctance head was from a computer card punch, but basically exactly the same thing as a CPS sensor.
It sensed a high spot welded onto a crankshaft dampener.
Timing was by raising or lowering the reluctance head a bit on it's threaded mounting sleeve.
A charged battery was good for a night's racing, but I always kept a spare one handy anyway.
Had them wired with trailer connectors for a quick swap.
My brother in law at the time won the 250 cc class at the Astrodome on it that year.

 

Pat. pend.