My Crossfire is stuck in the garage. 2006 Roadster - 41,000 miles, pampered.
Fully charged battery, everything seems to be working electrically. Turn key to engage the starter and nothing happens. Happened last week, and after trying a few times it started. Drove around town without problem. Tried to start yesterday and again nothing. Disconnected the battery and charged battery just to check charge level. Also, stuck in park. Sometimes I can get it out of park, but not consistently. I'm afraid this may be above my skill set. Thanks in advance.

 

Welcome to the forum.

The first thing that I would recommend you verify is that the Relay Control Module (RCM) is not faulty. You can do a search in the forum to learn more about how to repair bad solder joints if that is the problem. However, it is more likely based on your symptoms (getting stuck in park, no crank, etc.) that one of the relays on the printed circuit board has failed (either through burnt/pitted contacts, outputs, or coil). In that case, the solution would be to find someone that can repair your RCM (tighed1 is a forum member that generously offers this service to include relay replacement).

The RCM is located in the black box just inboard of the battery. Simply unlock the box with the two slides, and the RCM is the black box inside furthest from the battery. It can be released easily by pushing the metal retaining clip back and pulling out the entire RCM still attached to the 5 wiring connectors. One by one, disconnect each connector - they may be a little stiff, but just wiggle them loose as there are no clips holding them in place. The RCM can be opened by gently prying the sides of the case outward with a screwdriver and sliding out the RCM. Just be careful not to scratch the PCB when doing so. An easier way that I have found to get out the RCM is with an assistant. One person pulls on the RCM while the other uses their fingertips to spread the sides of the case, no tools required.

From that point it is relatively simple to test the 5 individual relays. Do you know anyone else that has a Crossfire? Switching a known good RCM from another Crossfire into your car is an easy way to determine if the RCM is the problem.

Also, you can override the shift interlock which is keeping you from getting out of park. There is a little spring loaded door near the bottom left of the selector console. If you stick a ball point pen or anything similar in there, you can override the interlock.

 

It's me!
Checkout the "RCM Repair" link in my signature block below.

 

Thanks Rob,


I was able to get the RCM out without issue. Would you know if an RCM can be bench tested?


Thanks
T.C Lewellyn

 

No, there is no setup for that, although there SHOULD be !
Good next project for DJ ( tighed1 )
All it will take is a 12v power supply, all 5 cable connector plugs, a complete schematic, some fuses and switches and lights and resistors and a box to mount them in along with the power supply and a genius to put it all together.

 

An easy way to test individual relays is to use a suitable DC power supply (I simply use a common 9 volt battery; you can use your car's battery as well) and touch probes to the two small pins at the bottom of each relay. The individual switch should close. In the case of the traction control and engine control relays, they seem to function in tandem - if you energize one of them, both relay switches should close. With the RCM oriented so that the relays are facing up and toward you they are left to right 1) horn, 2) traction control, 3) engine control, 4) fuel pump, and 5) air pump.

 

Check your ground cables make sure there is no corrosion at the battery where the cable goes into the battery post fitting and where the ground cable attaches to the fender well, unbolt the ground cable from the fender well clean it with a wire brush and then reinstall it and see if that helps, oh and one more thing you are definitely not driving that car enough you need to drive it more it helps keep everything in better working order, keep us up-to-date and we will try and help you as much as possible. Next time you get stuck in park read your owner's manual and it will explain how to overcome that it's not difficult all you need is a unsharpened number 2 pencil or a small screwdriver doesn't matter if it's a Philips or a straight blade you're just going to stick it through a small hole that has a flap next to the shifter and push down that will unlock the shifter and allow you to put it in neutral.

 

I would think twice trying to 'test-jig' an RCM. Unless your very good at applying voltages exactly where necessary, you could do a lot more harm than good. Anyone who builds a test jig knows (through experiences gone bad, come on, we know who we are) one slip of a power/ground probe could damage more than being able to be economically repaired. In my later years, I sometimes shake. I have ruined some components on boards (that I wanted to salvage), and admit it may not be the last one I might screw up. I am aware that if I do 'skip' powered probes wrong, it may cost me. We all can't be 100% all the time. All I am saying is not everyone can test mounted components with hot probes. It only takes one 'OhDamn' to rack up quite a bill. Be careful, if you aren't absolutely sure you can do it, enlist experienced forum members (like tighed1). Good luck!




.

 

I was thinking of building a box containing a 12v power supply along with 2 12v light bulbs and 2 momentary test switches and a power on switch.
( or 2 posts where I could connect my 12v emergency starter battery thingey )
I would then source a set of RCM connectors from a junk yard ( need A,B & E ).
Plug up the RCM, turn on the power then press each test switch, if all is OK for that relay ( coil energizes, contacts close good, you get a light, otherwise a problem )
No probe slippage factor.

12v ( thru 15 amp fuse ) to connector B1 & B4
ground to both momentary switches and the 2 bulbs
B3 to one bulb ( fuel relay output )
A3 to one bulb ( engine relay output )
E3 to one switch ( fuel relay test )
B5 to other switch ( engine relay test )

You could expand this further and include the other 3 relays ( traction, horn and air ), but they do not effect the car starting.
Matter of fact, it's only the engine relay that does that, if the fuel relay is bad, at least the car will TRY to start.

 

Does the fuel pump relay and the engine relay stay closed once the car is started?

 

You betcha !

 

I know it seems crazy but somebody's got to ask these questions, why not solder a jumper wire and eliminate the contact points? Assuming there's no power when the key is off.

 

The whole purpose of the relays is to allow control by the PTCM.
It checks that all the ducks are in a row before enabling the designated relay, by jumpering you would be putting the engine at risk.

 

In what ways?

 

Well, it first monitors the CPS to establish the approximate timing of the engine when the starter has turned it 2 revolutions. If it decides that the timing parameters are correct at this point, it enables the fuel pump and proceeds to fire the injectors and spark plugs. Once the engine is running, it then also monitors the Camshaft Position Sensor to establish the exact engine timing, from which it decides to advance or retard depending on engine demands.

So, you would be telling the engine to run WITHOUT specific control.

Your engine, your choice.

 

a lot of people a whole lot smarter than me designed and engineered all of this because they determine that's what it needed I'm not about to monkey with it I was just asking the question what if

 

Well, I like your idea kingdavid54 about corrosion around battery connections. RCM shows its no start when associated with heat, not when cold. But, what would I know...

 

Just because I'm that kind of guy I may go to the junkyard and get a used RCM an experiment with it, I'll have to download the electrical schematic from the repair manual.
And speaking of grounding I think this car needs more ground points. I believe the ground system as designed is adequate but I don't believe it is optimal. I'm going to look into adding more ground points and tying the car together electrically in a more suitable fashion in order to achieve that

 

I keep an extra in my toolbox. Just in case..lol