Hi Guys, I'm desperate to find a fix. My 05 srt6 now has about 50,000 miles and I'm still unable after years, literally years of trying to figure out how to fix it. The problem won't leave an error code so no one can help me with the computers that supposedly know so much. It started out as just a millisecond of a jolt while driving, like punching the gas for the shortest time. a year later maybe it started getting worse, so when you would start it, it would start revving up and down by itself. Then it would start to work fine again, sometimes after seconds, others after minutes, other times after turning it off and waiting a few. Then it just died once and rolled to a stop. Started back up in five and never happened again. STILL NO CODES! Then finally it did the rev thing again and it just sat in the driveway for a couple months. Finally I started it, in neutral and rolled down a hill, limped it to my mechanic, and now it's running perfect in his shop. Still no codes. Any help would be much the appreciated! Call me if you can! 310-709-5561 I love this car but it's making me crazy so I want to dump it! But I love it and would keep it if I could make it dependable.... THANKS SO MUCH!!!!!

 

Shotgun it :
new throttle body
new accelerator pedal assembly
new CPS sensor
new RCM module
new fuel filter
new fuel pump

 

Thanks for advise and suggestion. It seams like an expensive and time consuming fix when we don't even know if that will work. I heard this as an option before but it just seams crazy with todays technology and internet. I can't be the only one ever to have this problem can I? Thanks!

 

a used throttle body can be had for $50 on ebay
tight1 can resolder your rcm for $30ish
hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the end of the rail and read psi at idle, should be 54-56
where are you located?

 

I only suggested that shotgun approach because you have no P codes to go by.

 

See if any of Valks symptoms apply to you.
CLICK
Also check for vacuum leaks.

 

The car and I are located in Ventura, Ca.

I do appreciate the advise and I understand the logic w no codes. I guess it just blows my mind that I'm the only person to ever have this problem...

 

I had a problem with a 99 olds intrigue 'babystar' (V6) that 'jolted' when you had it under a full load (A/C and loaded, hard acceleration). Turns out two of the three 'dual' coils on the top of the motor was 'open' on their secondaries internally. After finding that I purchased two modules (of the three) and never a problem again. The 'jolt' was the result of the cylinder not burning the fuel/air for its cycle. Now since the spark was successfully 'jumping' the gap in those 'opens' AND the tip of the plug, then could it be possible the sensors never tripped (code) due to the fact it was of such a short duration? I have never pulled a coil pack off these engines, but wonder IF your having this 'jolt' (buck) due to a coil pack being open on the secondary? I would take the coils out one at a time (circuit test) and see if the high voltage side is open. I would think the low voltage side would 'trip' a code, but there is no 'code' trip-able for a coil secondary being 'open' (or IS there BESIDES a fully open larger gap preventing ANY spark reaching the plugs that would trip a misfire)? Just a thought, it should be quite easy to see if your coils are open on their respective secondaries. Have not pulled the manual out because I would think the schematics would not show the internal wiring of the coil packs. Since they are 'dual' coils, you might have to test (continuity) each to ground (OR) each 'tip' to 'tip'. IF they all read the same (tip to tip and each tip to a common ground), then I would guess they are OK. It would take a little time, but you have had a lot of downtime with the car anyway right?

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Thank you for the very detailed reply, much appreciated!