I know the P0410 code problem has had considerable discussion here but I need to bring it up again to see what members suggest for my issue.
History: Check engine light comes on -- check it with code reader and P0410 shows. Read the threads here on crossfireforum and 1: changed the RCM relay - cleared code and all good for a month or two and then code reappears 2: checked the check valve which is working cleaned the check valve - cleared code an all good for a couple of weeks then code reappears. 3: had a local garage pull the codes and their opinion was the secondary air pump is the culprit - purchase a new secondary air pump - install pump -- clear code and all good for a couple of days and the once again the check engine light comes on!

I would add that after I changed out the relay and the check engine light came on I found that after a couple of days the check engine light would go off and then reappear again in a few days. Not sure if this is significant or not.

Any insight from any members much appreciated.

 

STOP THE PRESSES! Pulled the RCM again to check fuses, connections and solder joints. Using as much magnification as I could find DISCOVERED that a couple of pins associated with the air pump relay were suffering from what appears to be fractures from cold solder joints as has been previously identified. Cleaned these up and resoldered --- I'm betting this will solve my P0410 code - wish me luck.

 

Mostly likely will do the trick !

 

tks alaxfire, My suggestion for anyone with a P0410 code to VERY carefully have a look at the solder connections on the RCM board. As others with more experience than me have said, the P0410 code is most likely a result of a burnt relay associated with the Secondary Air Pump and/or the solder connections on the RCM board. If I had looked more carefully when I replaced the relay and then the Secondary Aire Pump I would have saved a lot of time, effort and money.

 

Gregm, How did you figure out how to replace the RCM relay? The document in How To appears to be missing the instructions. The document on how to solder for the "mystery no start" doesn't show the relay, just 5 small fuses and a large fuse. Where is this relay to replace?

Justin

 

Relays can be purchased here
https://www.onlinecomponents.com/ame...tml?p=10618644


However there is a minimum order of $50.


For $30 I can replace your bad relays, resolder the bad joints and apply the Me So Horny mod.
Return shipping is included in that price.


Email me
tighed1 at Hotmail.com

 

yorxs, you need to unplug the five plugs and remove the board from the enclosure. Google "crossfire relay board" and select images. Lots of pictures of the board and relays. Based on my experience you need to have a very close look at the solder joints associated with the relays. In my case I first used a standard magnifying glass the first time and missed the fact that there were poor solder joints on the relay associated with the Secondary Air Pump. Use the highest magnification you can when checking. As tighed1 says it may be difficult to find just one relay without meeting a minimum order charge that doesn't make sense.

 

I may have missed posts that said bad soldering of the pins caused a problem, the only one that I see is the one that mentions your bad soldering.
Burnt contacts on the relay cause the most problems and the only sure way to cure that is a new relay.
If you replace your own relay cut the pins as close to the solder as you can, this leaves less pin to pull through any solder left in the hole.
There are other causes of pump failure but I am only talking about the relay.

 

Here is the updated relay replacement PDF showing the relays. CLICK
The air pump relay is #5.

 

Decades ago I used soldering 'wick', a copper or tin braid with or without flux in it (to absorb solder from a PC board). I used to make my own from used RG coax outer braid (preferred the copper braid). Years later, I could afford a 'solder sucker', a device that used a vacuum to 'suck' the liquid solder from the heated board. These solder suckers were the best because it left the PC board holes pretty clean and open. There are numerous ways to desolder, I have seen ppl just 'flick' a board and the solder flew off BUT that was unreliable and very messy for anyone who had to clean up the splattered solder (not counting any solder that landed all over the board they were trying to fix). So, a good 35 watt, 100watt, or larger (for those large heavy metal solder posts/grounds) AND a solder sucker, makes for a very fast job. Just be sure you use the right iron/pencil, for the job's size!

.

 

Mine was intermittent on and off. All I had to do was clean the plug and contact points on the smog pump. Right in front of the motor on top. There was a green powdery corrosion on both parts. The pump can't send or recieve proper electrical signals. A little piece of sandpaper clean the little nubs, then roll up a really small piece to clean inside of plug. Sprayed with a little wd-40 rust inhibitor, and let sit over night. Plugged in next morning, light was off never came back on. I'm begining to think crossfire electrical parts don't like moist environments. Hope this little looked over connection helps people.

 

DJ,
You did two of those boards for me , I think, maybe one. Anyway, OLD GUY HERE. Great job, thank you, they work great. Thanks again.
Bill T.

 

Send the RCM to Tighed1. I had one done by him and kept it in the trunk. When I got the dreaded p410 swapped it out. Problem solved. Sent the defective one back to DJ and had that one done. (now in the trunk)
Bill T.

 

that's tighed1, not Tight1

 

Shoot, did you not notice I am older than you? I make A LOT of mistakes. LOL

 

Yes I did notice, and so do I, that's why I caught it so easy, I am used to looking at typo's

 

LOL
Bill T.