So I'm cruising along at 50mph and suddenly the engine cuts out. No sputtering. Just dies (and yes it has gas). So I coast over to the shoulder and recycle the key. All electronics work but it won't start. Doesn't crank. Just silence. Try it a couple more times. No joy. After about 5 minutes of figuring out who I'm going to call to come get me I try it again and it starts right up. I'm only a few miles from home so I take it back with no further problems.

I get home and pull codes. The only code is the P0410. I used to have this all the time but since I replaced the secondary air pump a few months back it's been fine.

The final clue is that I can't erase the codes (I used to be able to with this reader). It lets me go through the steps and says they are erased. But when it is done the same code is still there.

So I've been reading up on the Mystery No Start issue and plan on touching up the solder joints (or sending it to Tighed1). But I'm curious about not being able to erase the codes. Is that a common symptom or is there something else going on here?

Thanks

Curt

 

Are you trying to erase with the engine running or just the key on ?


This is why I bought an iCarsoft MBII (not i980) because Torque Pro and other generic readers just get the generic "P" codes and not the real Mercedes codes.


A dealer with a Star/DAS scanner can pull them for you but may charge the same as the iCarSoft costs (buck and a half).


Might call around a see if there is an Indy that can pull Mecesdes codes. Tell them it is the same as an '01-'03 (Facelift) SLK320 with 16 pin OBD connector.

 

Erase with the ignition on. I've had this car for over a year and until now my scanner has worked fine to pull and erase codes. That's why I was wondering if it related to the mystery no start issue.

 

Just for S&G try ignition ON, engine OFF, AC ON and try to erase. Am wondering if it is erasing then immediately resetting. My tool takes 30-40 seconds to erase codes.


AFAIR 410 is a generic for the secondary air pump.

 

Most likely this is fractured solder in the path of the engine control relay on the RCM or a bad Engine Control Relay on the RCM. I'd pull it and send it to DJ and let him change the relay and go over the board's soldered connections.


Probably bad contact on the RCM in the SAI path - send it to DJ.

No clue. I don't reset codes, they go away in a few days after a few drive cycles if the issue is cleared up. If they persist, you have not fixed your problem.

 

I had the mystery no start issue a few months back and tried to sort it out myself, and then with a local garage (i.e. re-solder, crankshaft sensor, new battery etc). The problem still persisted, so I sent the RCM (from the UK) over to Tighed1 and he checked everything, replaced some bits and so far, no more problems. I think he is in your part of the country, so it should be easy to arrange and he has done a load of them.

 

DJ ( tighed1 ) is just 30 miles down in Sierra Vista from you.
Send him an email at tighed1@hotmail.com and arrange a meet.

 

Interesting. My sister has a Bisbee address but is on the west side of the hills and faces Hereford.

 

Curt (RAINDEM)

We're like neighbors. Let's hook up and get 'er fixed!

DJ

 

DJ, you should change that to "first and last and only"

Just curious, how much did you end up paying Corky when it was all said and done ?
I understand if you would rather not respond.

 

Think it was $3,200 when I dropped it off to him.
Why. Ya wanta buy it!?

 

NO WAY JOSE !! Be too much of a nightmare every time I turned the key thinking "what if this sucker explodes, what would I do !"

You are the perfect person to own it, you can handle it.