I should be receiving my drilled and slotted rotors this week. They are from a company called Disc Italia and Brakeworld.com has up until recently been the only US supplier to get them (exclusive distributor contract which has run out).

This was the only company I could find (Brembo didn't even have them) cross drilled and slotted. I am going for looks and performance. For an extra $80 a rotor (I think), I had them cryogenically treated so the stress cracking and warping would be kept to a minimum.

Now, I will be keeping my stock rotors... hell, I may even have them slotted by Porterfield just for track use.

I will also be receiving my Porterfield R-4 (race compound) pads hopefully this week. They have stated these are higher in noise (squalling) and dust than OEM pads, but these are for racing conditions which I will be experiencing next month at California Speedway. Porterfield makes a street pad that has low to no dust their R-4S compound.

If they don't have them in stock... they MAKE them for you. They had to do this for the race pads I ordered.

All in all, I agree that cross drilled doesn't do anything but make them look better. Slotting is what you need for the track. Plain solid rotors are what you NEED for the street.

As to what you want... that's always different.

 

Here's a picture of my newly arrived rotors from DiscItalia via brakeworld.com.

Cryo treated... DANG the fronts are seriously heavy!

 

Sweet! Those are gonna look nice!

 

how much if you don't mind me asking?

 

$799.50 Shipped after Cryo Treatment.

Cryo takes at least 72 hours (3 days) and was $25 per rotor I think.

Price per pair is $330 for the SRT6. The regular Crossfire rotors from DiscItalia (cross drilled and slotted) are $270 for the fronts and $225 for the rears. This is comparable to Brembo which is $290 for the fronts and $210 for the rears.

I did have to call brakeworld.com to get them Cryo treated as it's not listed on their site as an add on for rotor purchase.

Hope that helps.

 

Wow, sounds pricy. Has anyone checked the price on the complete Brembo big brake upgrade kit?

 

$3,200 from BuyBrakes.com.

 

Let's put it this way... if I bought OEM rotors from the dealer they would cost the following...

Front: Part # 5135475AA $92 Each ($184 a pair)
Rear: Part # 5135505AA $60 Each ($120 a pair)

Now... to have the cross drilling, slotting and cryo done by Porterfield was going to be $94 per rotor. This works out to an additional $188 per pair... now the pricing looks like this.

Front: $184 + $188 = $372
Rear: $120 + $188 = $308

Total: $680

This would also take time and cost more shipping as I would have to procure the rotors... ship them to Porterfield, wait for the work to be done and then they would probably charge me shipping in return.

All told, I think it's just about a wash.

I probably will have my old rotors slotted by Porterfield and use them just for the track... I haven't decided yet.

 

Nice choice... Make sure you follow the "bedding-in" procedure for both the new rotors and pads. See ya in a few weeks...

 

I was told by Porterfield that simply making the trek on I-5 down to Fontana should be enough to properly 'bed' in both the pads and rotors.

I'll make sure to do some hard and soft stops at higher speeds on the way (pending clear view of possible 'smokeys').

I'll be making a full write up on the rotor change and pad slap for the TSB's and How-to Articles section.

Cheers!

 

Since you are driving some 300 miles perhaps they're right... After all they are the pros... I always went with this procedure though. http://www.longacreracing.com/articles/art.asp?ARTID=27

 

Thanks for the article link... I'll keep those tips in mind on my trip down... maybe I'll be able to do proper bedding after I get on I-5.

We'll just have to wait and see...

 

Here's the rotors installed... I'm including two 'before' pictures for comparison.

Expecting the new pads and fluid on Friday.

 

Jody: LOOKS GREAT... Now all you need are some new Hankook Z214's on that puppy ... LOL Those look really nice... If you need any help with anything when you arrive, I will have the pit garage and all my tools, jacks, stands, compressor and air ratchet.

That offer stands for SRT6-CROSSFIRE and X'ED as well !!!

 

Anxious to hear your opinion about the new rotors and if you feel a difference in the breaking, but either way... it is worth it for the looks...

 

The rotors look really nice as stated by others... pictures do not do them justice. Now, as to the stopping power, they seem a little better than the smooth rotors that were on there. But I have only my memory of previous stopping power as a reference, so it's subjective at best.

As to the function. I'm getting some squealing under light braking conditions, even after several 'bedding' sessions (eight cycles of 60-10mph in a row after proper warm up). I suspect that comes from the fact that they were Cryogenically treated and are now MUCH harder than regular rotors and I haven't yet burned through the zinc wash coating. This may take much higher speeds and more heat to burn through properly. Also, the cross drilling and slotting may create more harmonics and increase the chance of squealing.

I suspect that after the track event that they will quiet down, especially with full race pad compound running on them. This should provide the proper 100+mph slowdowns to really heat them up and break through that zinc wash coating. Derek told me that with the smooth stock SRT6 rotors on his, he gets NO squealing at all with full race compound running on them, even when he was still driving it on the street. It only took one track event to make them that way according to Derek.

I will wait and see, if the race compound gets quiet after the event during the drive home, I'll know the rotors are bedded properly. If they begin to squeal after I put the OEM pads back on when I get home, then I'll switch back to the race pads to see if they quiet down again.

Again, I'll post a full update after the track event next weekend.

Cheers!

 

MMZ: Just a slight correction to your post...

When I installed the SRT6 brake rotors and calipers on my Limited last spring, the new brakes / rotors squealed mildly for a few weeks while driving on the street with the new OEM pads. Then, a few days before a track event, I installed the Porterfield race pads... They squealed like a "SCHOOL BUS" on the street, before I went to the track... But then, after the weekend on the track... Not a hush, quiet as a mouse farting...

My mechanic went through the car yesterday and checked / torqued all my vital undercarriage components and was shocked to see that the Porterfield pads show very little wear after an entire season of abuse. And the rotors are smooth as glass, with no ridges... Heck, I thought for sure that I would have to replace my pads before this event, but everything looks really solid... I guess I just have to beat the car a little bit more this year... Perhaps demolition derby... Any volunteers ?

Look at it this way, if your new brakes squeal for a few days, just turn the radio up really loud so you can't hear it and annoy everyone else...

 

what is this? You have a mechanic working on your car, lol. I thought you where some big time hobby racer who could turn his own wrenches.

 

Yeah, the only things I'm lacking are a hydraulic lift, dyno & computer alignment system... My birthday is in May, you want my address to send gifts ?

Oh wait, I need a new TIG welder too.

 

What's a matter never heard of jack stands? Who needs a lift when you can get by on a cheapo jack from pepboys?

And what do you need a dyno for, it's not like you can program your own ecu, why not try those onboard g meters, they are more accurate than a chassis dyno.