2005 no start, turns over great - not fuel delivery
I'm recently experiencing some intermittent issue with the 2005 Crossfire. I originally thought it might be fuel delivery due to fact, car sits up for months at a time, (trickle charger connected, and started once a week for 10mn run). Thought it might be fuel delivery bc, I come out from local store and go to crank it, and it turns over great but acts like either, no fire or no fuel. Someone I called suggested shaking the car vigorously, and oddly, the car started. And, another time, similar situation, car didn't start. Had it towed on a flatbed wrecker to my home. Upon arrival at my home, tried starting just to see, and it started up immediately.
So, as the saga continues, I've replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter and am putting non-ethanol fuel in tank, thought it should be fixed. (Car runs great!) Then, next couple days, it does the same thing. Spins over, and engages the electronic controlled start where it continues to run starter till it times out.... (3-5sec?) Can I get some feedback? And, yes, I'm getting a dummy light to "Check Engine". When I asked a local shop to check the code, I'm not confident they're using the right code reader or that they clearly know how to use it. Just my assumption here. Comments please.
So, as the saga continues, I've replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter and am putting non-ethanol fuel in tank, thought it should be fixed. (Car runs great!) Then, next couple days, it does the same thing. Spins over, and engages the electronic controlled start where it continues to run starter till it times out.... (3-5sec?) Can I get some feedback? And, yes, I'm getting a dummy light to "Check Engine". When I asked a local shop to check the code, I'm not confident they're using the right code reader or that they clearly know how to use it. Just my assumption here. Comments please.
RCM, search the diy for the fix or buy a new one.
edit: i missed the part where you said you have CEL on.i agree with james, start with CPS if you're going to throw parts at it.
edit: i missed the part where you said you have CEL on.i agree with james, start with CPS if you're going to throw parts at it.
Last edited by DualSportDad; Feb 17, 2019 at 06:56 PM.
Can you hear the fuel pump run for 2 seconds when you turn the key to the ON position?
or
Check fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Anything?
or
Spray starting fluid into the throttle body and see if it runs while you are spraying.
or
Open the RCM and check to see if the fuel relay is closing for 2 seconds when the key is turned to the ON position.
What code did you get?
or
Check fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Anything?
or
Spray starting fluid into the throttle body and see if it runs while you are spraying.
or
Open the RCM and check to see if the fuel relay is closing for 2 seconds when the key is turned to the ON position.
What code did you get?
Thank you. I do not have a code reader. I have not done troubleshooting myself as of yet. I do intend to use the knowledge gained from these responses to resolve my issue. Just to clarify, the car engine does turn over, like new, but, seems as if "no spark", or if "no fuel". After reading these replies, it seems two good suspects are the RCM solder joints as described or throw a new CPS on it - or, both! Thanks so much.
If you folks will let me ask one more question for clarification.... My understanding, after reading and watching DIY vids on RCM - is that, the solder issue on the RCM is more directed to a "no start", as in...you turn the ignition key and lights come on, but, nothing happens.... Can I get a response to verify that I understand the fix to be for that reason. REASON: engine does NOT turn over when ignition key is turned to "start" position. Only lights on dash come on. Am I understanding this correctly. And, now to elaborate....I feel James' (and others) reply to my no start issue is to replace the CPS (crankshaft position sensor), but, I'm also learning, it could be the CPS (camshaft position sensor) on the front of the engine.... Comments - replies... (and,again, thank you all - you guys are GREAT!)
thanks - i believe the CPS and CPS replacement ideas are closer to my issue. at least, for now.... wanted to give you a personal thanks for your tips!
Last edited by Rick-In-Memphis; Feb 18, 2019 at 03:52 PM. Reason: this reply was intended for tighed1
If you folks will let me ask one more question for clarification.... My understanding, after reading and watching DIY vids on RCM - is that, the solder issue on the RCM is more directed to a "no start", as in...you turn the ignition key and lights come on, but, nothing happens.... Can I get a response to verify that I understand the fix to be for that reason. REASON: engine does NOT turn over when ignition key is turned to "start" position. Only lights on dash come on. Am I understanding this correctly. And, now to elaborate....I feel James' (and others) reply to my no start issue is to replace the CPS (crankshaft position sensor), but, I'm also learning, it could be the CPS (camshaft position sensor) on the front of the engine.... Comments - replies... (and,again, thank you all - you guys are GREAT!)
Thanks so much. Copy that... - replace crankshaft sensor - use/buy only Bosch part - got it!
Part #: BS0261210170-Crankshaft Position Sensor
Bosch Crankshaft Position Sensor New Mercedes Sprinter C Class 0261210170 Bosch
Qty: 1.00
Price: $ 33.72
Purchased this from a search, on eBay, of the factory OE part number. The vendor is near me and has fast and free shipping. Now, once I get it, is to tackle getting past the heat shield and down to the darn thing. All the vids I watch in showing how to do it, it does not appear to be an easy job. They say getting the electronic plug connector off is awkward difficult.
Last edited by Rick-In-Memphis; Feb 18, 2019 at 05:35 PM. Reason: forgot to mention "where" I searched
Thanks "DualSportDad" and others: Just as a follow-up and if this info helps anyone else:
Part #: BS0261210170-Crankshaft Position Sensor
Bosch Crankshaft Position Sensor New Mercedes Sprinter C Class 0261210170 Bosch
Qty: 1.00
Price: $ 33.72
Purchased this from a search, on eBay, of the factory OE part number. The vendor is near me and has fast and free shipping. Now, once I get it, is to tackle getting past the heat shield and down to the darn thing. All the vids I watch in showing how to do it, it does not appear to be an easy job. They say getting the electronic plug connector off is awkward difficult.
Part #: BS0261210170-Crankshaft Position Sensor
Bosch Crankshaft Position Sensor New Mercedes Sprinter C Class 0261210170 Bosch
Qty: 1.00
Price: $ 33.72
Purchased this from a search, on eBay, of the factory OE part number. The vendor is near me and has fast and free shipping. Now, once I get it, is to tackle getting past the heat shield and down to the darn thing. All the vids I watch in showing how to do it, it does not appear to be an easy job. They say getting the electronic plug connector off is awkward difficult.
I suppose, when/while watching the video, I guess it was appearing to be that fact, the guy was removing the connector before removing retaining screw. Good call - thanks for bringing that to my attention.
Thanks "DualSportDad" and others: Just as a follow-up and if this info helps anyone else:
Part #: BS0261210170-Crankshaft Position Sensor
Bosch Crankshaft Position Sensor New Mercedes Sprinter C Class 0261210170 Bosch
Qty: 1.00
Price: $ 33.72
Purchased this from a search, on eBay, of the factory OE part number. The vendor is near me and has fast and free shipping. Now, once I get it, is to tackle getting past the heat shield and down to the darn thing. All the vids I watch in showing how to do it, it does not appear to be an easy job. They say getting the electronic plug connector off is awkward difficult.
Part #: BS0261210170-Crankshaft Position Sensor
Bosch Crankshaft Position Sensor New Mercedes Sprinter C Class 0261210170 Bosch
Qty: 1.00
Price: $ 33.72
Purchased this from a search, on eBay, of the factory OE part number. The vendor is near me and has fast and free shipping. Now, once I get it, is to tackle getting past the heat shield and down to the darn thing. All the vids I watch in showing how to do it, it does not appear to be an easy job. They say getting the electronic plug connector off is awkward difficult.
On my NA you could see the CPS and I took pictures of it for a PDF, on my SRT you cannot see it at all, maybe it is better to get at the SRT one from below.
Real mechanics do not bend things out the way, dealership mechanics are a different story.��
Real mechanics do not bend things out the way, dealership mechanics are a different story.��
Last edited by onehundred80; Feb 18, 2019 at 11:55 PM.
A logical person knows the purpose of the heatsheild and knows if it's bent a 1/4 inch it still acts as a heatsheild. It is just as easily put right back into place when done.
I guess it's too late now to buy a copy of the Crossfire Student Reference Book CD from you?
Nothing was bent out of the way on my NA when I took the pictures in the following PDF.
CLICK
Last edited by onehundred80; Feb 19, 2019 at 09:32 AM.
Well I guess my little poke at Crossfire mechanics caught you where it hurts, the remark was meant in jest. The emoticon did not display correctly, sadly many in the US have lost a sense of humour these days and will immediately look at any remark as an intended slur. Sad.
I guess it's too late now to buy a copy of the Crossfire Student Reference Book CD from you?
Nothing was bent out of the way on my NA when I took the pictures in the following PDF.
CLICK
I guess it's too late now to buy a copy of the Crossfire Student Reference Book CD from you?
Nothing was bent out of the way on my NA when I took the pictures in the following PDF.
CLICK
as far as the training info goes, so far you guys here have it figured out more than any info contained in any dealer training. there were specifics that were required before the cars could be ordered and beyond that i don't think there were much classes offered. the cars aren't rocket science, just require being resourceful when it comes to getting parts the right way. i enjoy my car a lot (i just home from a 50 mile morning cruise with my son) but i worry about the future of being able to source specific parts. i appreciate being a member on here and what the members on here have done for the Crossfire community.
I removed that "heat shield" when I replaced the CPS about 60,000 miles and eight years ago with out any subsequent problem.


