Speedometer not working, spoiler up, ESP/BAS and other warning lights on
Sounds like there might be an intermittent ground somewhere. Any grounds related to the issues on the schematic/service manual? Intermittants are most troubling to trace down, I hope you find the problem soon!
All of the symptoms mentioned can be caused by a bad traction control relay in the relay control module.
Open the RCM (Video on YouTube) reinstall it, turn the key to the ON position.
2 of the 3 middle relays should stay engaged. If only one, you found the problem.
If only 1, turn off car. Manually close the failed relay (toothpick works).
Start car. You should be able to lower the wing. Other faults will clear after running for a bit.
Email me for RCM repair info if needed.
tighed1@hotmail.com
Open the RCM (Video on YouTube) reinstall it, turn the key to the ON position.
2 of the 3 middle relays should stay engaged. If only one, you found the problem.
If only 1, turn off car. Manually close the failed relay (toothpick works).
Start car. You should be able to lower the wing. Other faults will clear after running for a bit.
Email me for RCM repair info if needed.
tighed1@hotmail.com
Hey sorry not yet ive still been studying up on the schematics so far I’ve traced most of it back to bus communication errors like I previously mentioned.
so far the bus communication is inclusive of the ecu>abs/bas module>Skreem>instrument cluster>SLA* (shift lever assembly)>TCM>Locking air pump/security system>BCM (TCM & SLA are for auto’s only, MT’s don’t have either one)
Im going to run a few more pin-out test to verify it is the bus in my car that’s causing all of this but if it is.. it’s gonna require that rewire that part of the system, is highly recommend wiring it inside the cabin and only routing the cable through the 2 fuses box terminals on either end of the engine bay because I feel like it’s orinignal position (running right over the trans) is the reason why it failed that and it’s the only wire outside of one other set in the entire wiring harness that has these really odd looking wiring nuts that are made of what seems to be hot glue related.
Ill keep everyone updated though. If anyone needs/wants the shop manual send me PM and I’ll send it to you directly via Dropbox link .
Last edited by Space coupe; Aug 5, 2019 at 09:48 PM.
When I plugged up my car it read p0600 on several different readers and dealers which is a broad code relating to bus communication errors and what could potentially be the issue. One mechanic told me it was my abs module and I replaced it and that didn’t do anything. I’ve swapped my RCM (several times) that also didn’t work. Through my testing so far everything points to can +b/-c bus and it just connects all the cars modules together via wire splices to two 20 awg wire. If this is the problem I’m going to use 18awg to replace it and use different wire nuts and wire it through the inside of the cabin under the dash.
When I plugged up my car it read p0600 on several different readers and dealers which is a broad code relating to bus communication errors and what could potentially be the issue. One mechanic told me it was my abs module and I replaced it and that didn’t do anything. I’ve swapped my RCM (several times) that also didn’t work. Through my testing so far everything points to can +b/-c bus and it just connects all the cars modules together via wire splices to two 20 awg wire. If this is the problem I’m going to use 18awg to replace it and use different wire nuts and wire it through the inside of the cabin under the dash.
Can you explain ? As far as where would they be terminated and how cause in my finding there aren’t any resistors in the wiring it’s self .. the wires may terminate to a resistor within some of the car modules though.
Finally found the fault on my Crossfire.This little “thingie” was faulty,my mechanic fixed it and we bought a spare one,just in case it happens again,thanks for advise-hope you sorted your problem
well, sir, whenever my spoiler gets stuck up, i disconnect the negative battery cable, maybe 30 seconds. reconnect the battery, take it down the road over 55, so it kicks in, well, as for me, it works everytime..its always fixed, ANY warning lites...but ya gotta go drive over 55, for the spoiler to function..good luck..it actually reboots the computer...
Got it sorted,thanks...it was the Auto relay,wasn’t working,got it fixed,and bought a new one on EBay for £10.00 so are prepared if it happens again.
Thanks for input
Thanks for input
Where exactly does this piece install ?! I’d love to give it a try; been procrastinating on re wiring the can bus system because of how long and tedious it’s gonna be if I end up having to do it.
PDF for Replacing the relay. CLICK
PDF for Relay specifications. CLICK
Last edited by onehundred80; Aug 22, 2019 at 03:54 PM.
:/ I’ve already swapped the RCM 3 times with no luck. So I’ve been chasing what seems to be an endless rabbit trail.
Did you replace the ABS Controller module and bleed the brakes? It's corrected this exact issue for myself and others.
in the end it made sense.. what else would throw all the brake/wheel/abs lights + no speedo and limp mode.. the ABS Controller module.
in the end it made sense.. what else would throw all the brake/wheel/abs lights + no speedo and limp mode.. the ABS Controller module.
Last edited by direwolf; Aug 26, 2019 at 05:01 PM.
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