Have you read for any error codes being set? They can be set but show no engine warning light.
That is the first step I would take. The cars have the ability to diagnose its faults so why not try to use it?

 

Hey Gary - any progress on this?

 

Out of frustration today, I puilled the RCM out of the box and tapped it about 6 times on the heat shield ... and the damn thing started!! Let it run for about 10 minutes and shut it of and it went back to the mystery no start symptoms. Not sure if me tapping it on the heat shield or moving the wires getting it out of the box triggered the start, but no amount of movement or tapping after that allowed it to start again. I pulled the cover off of the RCM and looked at the solder joints on it and saw some that could use a little cleaning up. They may be good, but I work in the aircraft industry and some of the solder joints would not pass (flux left on the pads, too much solder on some, non uniform, etc). I always think the inspectors get too picky when they critique my soldering, but now it's ingrained in me when I look at finished solder jobs. So, since it doesn't cost me anything, I am going to clean up the "suspect" solder joints and go from there - actually, I am going to touch all of them for good measure. I'll do a good inspection of the relay contacts while I'm doing this and make sure they are clean. If that doesn't work, I'll start tracing all the wires and connectors that go to the RCM and see if there is a failure of one of those.

But, I am really thinking the problem is near the RCM.

Thanks again - I'll keep you all posted.

Randy L

 

nope

 

so the saga continues. sent the car to a shop that specializes in german cars. they said it has 22 security codes but they are unable to get the car to communicate and it still wont crank. they recommend that i send it to the local dodge dealer but im not crazy about that idea. so now i dont know where to go with this car

 

I retouched and cleaned up all the solder connections on the RCM as well as inspected/cleaned the contacts of the relays and that did not help (I didn't think it would, but I feel better now). I also put the RCM on the bench and hooked it up to 12VDC (Power to D2 and Ground to B5) to check continuity after the 2 relays (Traction and Engine Control) close and everything works as expected per the diagrams. I feel pretty confident that I can call the RCM good.

Looking at diagram 8W-10-21, the next step in the path goes from the Engine Control Relay to the C5 connector on the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). I disconnected the C5 connector from the PCM and checked for continuity from E6 and E4 of the RCM to the PCM C5-9 and C5-3 respectively and the wires checked good. Did some wiggling of the wires in the C5 connector to make sure they were seated tightly in the connector and they were good. Inspected the mating connector at the PCM and it looked good as well. After all the inspection, I plugged it all back together and checked for 12VDC at C5-3 and C5-9 with the key on and that checked good. I tried to start it one more time and the car cranked (starter engaged) for about 1/2 a second, acted like it wanted to fire and then stopped cranking. I tried again and got no starter engagement. Disconnected the C5 connector again, wiggled/pulled all the wires in it again, plugged it back in and got the same result - 1/2 second started engagement and then nothing. Looking at the C5 connector, there are 4 ground wires in it - locations 5-8. I am thinking that I have an intermittent ground happening here. Those 4 grounds go to location G101 which is behind the windshield washing tank.

So, my next step will be to really look at that ground location, clean it up and make sure there isn't an intermittent problem there. Also, the C5 connection is a "spade" type connection and with my naked eye in the dim light of my garage, it looks like the female (socket) side of the connection at location 7 ~might~ be a bit wider than the others. I'll see if I can tighten that one up so it clamps on the spade tighter.

I'll let you know what happens.

Randy

 

Have you guys tried, garys383 and RL67037 disconnecting the battery for a few minutes? SKREEM 3 starts then nothing thing?? This security code thing is interesting.

 

I can't speak for Gary, but I have tried that several times ... not really to reset the SKREEM, but the battery was disconnected and reconnected when I was having it tested and when I changed it. But, I am not having the "3 tries and done" situation like what is common with the SKREEM. My car is not engaging the starter at all (most of the time). Sometimes it will start like it has no problems (it has done this 2 or 3 times in the past 3 months) and now I am getting about a 1/2 second of starter engagement but it doesn't start. If I try to start it a 2nd time (without changing anything) I get no starter engagement and disconnecting the battery does not reset it. About the only thing that allows another "kick of the starter" is me wiggling the wires - sometimes having to unplug and reconnect - at the C5 connector at the PCM.

 

the dodge dealer has told me the starter is bad and they want to charge me $1000 for the starter plus labor WOW. has anyone bought a starter from rockauto where the most expensive one is $278 for a rebuilt. thanks

 

They have a TYC (P/N 117852) for $70 with a lifetime warranty. Why spend the extra $200? I haven't changed a starter on these yet, but I have changed starters before - can't be that difficult as a DIY, can it? Just remember to disconnect the battery and you're good.

 

I think you have the exhaust pipe in the way and that has to be moved? removed?
$1,000 plus labour, that is one dealer to dodge away from.
I would not get the cheapest starter as you may be doing the whole thing again too soon. It is possible that it can be rebuilt so why not try.

 

You are correct, sir!!

From the Service Manual:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
3. Remove the lower engine panel.
4. Disconnect the right O2 sensor electrical connector.
5. Remove the right side exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold to the rear exhaust system. (Refer to 11 -
EXHAUST SYSTEM/CATALYTIC CONVERTER - REMOVAL)
6. Remove the starter bolts (1) and reposition the starter to access the starter electrical cables.
7. Remove the starter positive cable protective plastic cap (3).
8. Disconnect the starter cables by removing the ground cable nut (2) and the positive cable nut.
9. Remove the starter (4) from the vehicle.

 

thx i ordered a starter for $64 and will do it myself, screw the dealer.

 

Just for future reference here is a link to the REAL Bosch unit
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/SR0456X

 

That is the part for the SLK230
The same site says this is the part for the SLK320. CLICK

 

so can you roll it down a hill and pop the clutch to start it like we did back in the day?

 

YOu dont screw the dealer.

The DEALER screws YOU.

Sad that major automaker's dealers are this dishonest.

 

I don't know why not, provided the battery is up enough to power the fuel pump, injectors, plugs and all the computery-functions in the ECM.

 

Sorry - my idea was wrong. Withdrawn.

 

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