Hi,

I lack all knowledgeable when it comes to this car I think. It's a 2004 crossfire. The engine won't start as of yesterday. I put my key, opened door and alarm went off. I closed door--locked and unlocked again. The key also turns a little more stiff than normal, but still opens. I can get in and out but it won't start. I assume it thinks I am trying to steal my own car. Background:

Alarm was going off randomly and neighbors complained. I just leave it unlocked--this was 3 mos.
Alarm stopped going off and have had no problems for 5 months.
One week ago, alarm went off three times in the middle of the night
One day ago, I went to my car to open and ever since have not been able to drive
I have a brand new key that has never been programmed that I purchased from the dealer because I wanted to have an extra key in case I lose the only key I have now
I took my car to the chrysler dealership thinking they can program my new key and then my alarm issue will be resolved
Chrysler told me they cannot program my new key because they can't program due to an issue that they need to diagnose.
I am concerned as a woman that I am not receiving clear information as I was told the diagnostic is $200 and when I agreed to diagnostic they changed to $300 because they said they have to test extra things called "pinnings?? and said something about a module."
I asked them what happens if they bypass the diagnostic and they replace module. They said cost would be $1,200 plus $100 program key but it would not necessarily fix the problem---just new module replacement
I just don't know what to do and I feel uncomfortable so I started researching online and found this forum and post below.
Would the post below possibly apply to my situation.
I really feel uncomfortable and do not want to be ripped off.
I would appreciate any advice.


I saw this post:
10-24-2017, 09:04 PM
Steve Jr
Steve Jr is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Knoxville
Age: 58
Posts: 1,465
Default Re: No start/anti theft issueRaise the hood on the driver side, beside the fender at, the very back you'll see a small black box ;about 6 inch by 10 inch. On the front, take your thumb ,pull the tab back towards the driver's seat on the looking at it left side, lift the other tab up. Lift the lid off ,looking directly into the box with good lite ,they are numbered. It's the very first ,one closest to the headlight the color is red. It has a 10 on it. If you look at the plastic molding you can see the raised lettering for the number 9 fuse. This is only for the anti theft alarm. If that dozen work, remove #35. Its the radio frequency remote control. Let us know

 

You came to the right place. Welcome to the Forum. We were new owners this past spring and this forum has saved us a ton of money and grief. There are people who are very knowledgeable and experienced and will ask a lot of your "symptom questions" and start offering the solutions. Most will advise you to stay away from dealerships as they no longer have the equipment or experience to really help you. They are offend referred to as Stealerships. Be patient here. You will get answers here and you will truly enjoy your car. You might add your City in your Bio so people can recommend a private repair shop to use in your area.

 

Thank you for your reply, Johnny Versatile!

Yes- patience is good. I am having my car towed today from the dealership because I could tell from my questions that they really had no answers for me so I will wait to see if something helpful shows up here.

I will post my city in my bio. (SF Bay Area)

Thank you!
Andrea

 

When I had a similar issue, I disconnected the battery for 10 minutes then reconnected and everything worked. I did replace the battery soon after. These cars don't like a weak battery.

 

How old is the battery?
How long have you owned the car and how many miles? Is it an automatic transmission or a manual shift?
If the starter does not even engage and try to turn the engine, you probable have an problem with the RCM (Relay Control Module) OR the pulse module.
If the starter does engage and tries to start the car, but it just wont start it could be fuel or spark related.
SO is the starter engaging or not?
PLEASE answer all the questions. It may not seem like it could possible be important, but having all those answered helps a lot at getting to the problem.

 

And as a reference your car is basically a 2003 Mercedes SLK 320. Most mechanical parts are interchangeable. IF you must take it to a service mechanic go to a independent shop that specializes in European/ Mercedes automobiles.

 

.


OK guys, lets address some of the issues, OK? First, with the alarm going off all the time, have you checked the lower bay (rear 'trunk') area for water damage. When a leak happens, (a lot of the time), water gets into the central locking module in that trunk area below the carpeted cover and under the Styrofoam inserts on the far right lower passenger side of the fender.. When it is ruined by water, it causes the alarm to go NUTS and if not addressed can cause a whole lot of additional problems due to the wiring/computers in the vehicle (data bus feedback and wiring feedback). Is there a member close to this members area so that hands on help can be used? There are a LOT of things you can do to troubleshoot this but it must be done in a logical way (not shotgunned all over the place). One thing at a time, before addressing the central locking pump just as suggested, how old is the battery (remember, if the locking pump is ruined, a new battery might drain fast if a current leak is present). Slow but sure, one thing at a time until ruled out. Good luck!


.

 

Hi Zip439,

How old is the battery?
i estimate the battery is one year old.

How long have you owned the car and how many miles?
Is it an automatic transmission or a manual shift?
I have owned the car since 2014. One owner prior. I inherited the car at 50K.
Automatic
151K

If the starter does not even engage and try to turn the engine, you probable have an problem with the RCM (Relay Control Module) OR the pulse module.
If the starter does engage and tries to start the car, but it just wont start it could be fuel or spark related.
SO is the starter engaging or not?

The starter INITIALLY did not engage.
I just came back from where my car is parked. Took out fuse #9 so alarm does not go off. Also took out #35 just in case from reading above. Then had battery unhooked for about 15 minutes.
The starter DID ENGAGE but then it went dead again. It started and then died again after 3 seconds.
PLEASE answer all the questions. It may not seem like it could possible be important, but having all those answered helps a lot at getting to the problem.
THANK YOU.

 

OK guys, lets address some of the issues, OK? First, with the alarm going off all the time, have you checked the lower bay (rear 'trunk') area for water damage.
No, I have not.

When a leak happens, (a lot of the time), water gets into the central locking module in that trunk area below the carpeted cover and under the Styrofoam inserts on the far right lower passenger side of the fender.. When it is ruined by water, it causes the alarm to go NUTS and if not addressed can cause a whole lot of additional problems due to the wiring/computers in the vehicle (data bus feedback and wiring feedback).
I see.
hmmm..The right rear tail light is loose and I need to replace. I wonder if water seeped in this way. I would have to have someone check this possibility.

Is there a member close to this members area so that hands on help can be used?
I do not know.

There are a LOT of things you can do to troubleshoot this but it must be done in a logical way (not shotgunned all over the place).
ok

One thing at a time, before addressing the central locking pump just as suggested, how old is the battery (remember, i
The batter was replaced in October 2018 so just over one year.

f the locking pump is ruined, a new battery might drain fast if a current leak is present). Slow but sure, one thing at a time until ruled out. Good luck!
Thank you.

 

Thank you, Maggy55.

I tried this and it actually started strong and then died right away. Will continue seeking more answers.

~Humblecrossfire

 

Can you hear the fuel pump engage for 2 seconds when you turn the key to the ON position??
Do you have fuel pressure?

 

Hello tighed1,

Thanks for the earlier suggestion. Back to one thread.

UPDATE:
The car started this morning and can move.
The power locks are still not in sync and the alarm is still dysfunctioning constantly.

Humblecrossfire..

 

You are still having problems with your keys? I'm asking because the air pump that is in the rear under the trunk carpet is what opens and closes the door lock when you use the FOB buttons to lock or unlock. So if the buttons on the FOB are not working then it is another indication you have problems, possible with water in the lower well under the trunk.
Look at the front of your FOB, there is a small red piece of plastic. When you push the open button do you see a small red light blink? Yes the batteries in the FOB are OK and the FOB should be opening and locking the door. If you do not see that small red light blink then you need to put new batteries in the FOB. ( 2025 There are two in each FOB).
If the light is blinking and the locks still do not operate you can synchronize the FOB to the car by briefly pressing the lock or unlock button twice and then within 30 seconds insert the key in to the ignition and turn it to the on/Run position. If everything is working properly with the system the locks should be once again operational with the FOB.
IF not then it continues to point to a problem in the rear of the car.
The siren is under the cowl, just below the windshield. If you can open that cowl, you need to remove the windshield wiper arms, you can disconnect the siren. It will not interfere or cause any problems being disconnected. The fuse for the siren I believe is number 9. It is in the fuse box under the hood on the drivers side close to where the hood hinges up. Next time that siren goes off pull the fuse number 9. That should stop the sound. If it stopped sounding off then try leaving that fuse out until you can check for water in the rear. Step by step, one at a time.

PS there is an option if I remember correctly that allows just the drivers side door to open with a push of the unlock button and then it takes a second push of the unlock button to get the passenger door to unlock. Please check that out and tell us how it works

 

In the other thread I explained two methods of checking for water in that well under the trunk. Another method is to be under the rear of the car, aft of the axle you can see two plugs on the passenger side that plug holes in the very compartment that holds the water. You can use a small pocket knife or an ice pick and put a small slit in that plug. The plug is rubber, but it is covered with undercoating. There is nothing on top of the plug that is closer to the center of the car so do not be concerned about damaging something above it. Just put a slit in the plug twist the knife blade a little and see if you get water coming out of the hole.
If you find water, you have found your problem.

Let us know how it goes.
Did you have a chance to click the link I gave you in that other thread and read the two associated post?

 

I do not believe the red lens blinks? I have had a couple of FOBs apart and there is nothing behind the red lens.

 

There is a diode behind the red lens and when a button is pressed it lights up, it indicates the condition of the battery.
My one is dull to start and then goes much brighter.

 

All four of my FOBs blink red; I suggest you are missing something or the batteries are getting very low.

 

My bad, since I didn't see a buld behind it, I *** - umed it didn't light. Thanks for enlightening me.

 

I had same problem with my 2006. The battery was replaced and the car would not start.
Classic symptoms: First try: engine runs for 3 seconds and dies. 2nd try engine relay clicks but does not crank..
Third try engine clicks but does not crank.
Take battery lead off then put back on and the starting steps above will repeat all 3 steps again!
The car thinks somebody is trying to steal it.
I had it towed to a Garage and the MECHANIC RESET IT WITH HIS DIAGNOSTIC ANALYZER. $100.
Greg Fiore