Paper filters work well for those who dont give a damn about their engine and trust "quick lube" places.
Go ahead, put a paper filter in. Drive 1000 miles. Yank filter out - tell us what you see.

THAT will be the last paper filter you allow in your car - even a non-technical person will dislike what they see - a collapsed element.

Again, they only work for those who don't do the change themselves and therefore don't see the risk they are taking.

 

Amen. Happen to me Once. Had the mechanic change the oil while the car was in the shop for the transmission connector fix, Never again. The filter was a paper filter that had collapse and ripped apart.

 

To onehundred80 and others, I made the comment based on what onehundred80 had posted in #17 above and the 11,000km change limit. Did not mean to offend anyone..

 

You did not offend anyone. Your question was a good one and it gave several of us a chance to make very clear (for you and others who read this thread) the unsuitability of the paper filters.

 

Thanks pizzaguy, Mann all the way as suggested in the responses.

 

I also make sure I apply the proper torque setting to the filter housing when tightening. Too loose and the oil will ooze (possibly spray due to pressure) out of the filter housing and make a mess in the engine bay. Too tight and removal of the oil filter housing becomes difficult (same for just about any oil filter install, including spin-on designs). Service manual states proper torque setting is 25 N-m (18 ft-lbs). Buy yourself an oil filter wrench adapter that fits the filter housing cap.

 

You have to remove the splash shield from the bottom side of the motor to gain access to the drain plug (see attached). Make sure you replace the copper crush gasket on the drain plug. "Oil-Tite", Item #65310. 1/2" oversized (M14) crush gasket; come 2-3 in a small box. You can pick these up in just about any generic parts store that has an "Oil-Tite" section. I get mine at the local Pep-Boys. Torque setting on drain plug is 30 N-m (22 ft-lbs).

I'm "old school". If performing an oil change, I will "drain" the oil from the engine. I'm not a fan of "siphoning" the oil out of the engine. The only engines I siphon the oil out of are the small 4-stroke engines in mowers, yard tractors, pressure washers, etc. Some of the newer versions of these devices don't even have an engine drain plug anymore. You have to siphon the oil out. Or you have to flip the yard machine over on its side to pour the oil out of the engine. DO NOT use this method on your Crossfire!!!!!

 

Thanks for the advice and tutorial dedwards0323

 

All should take notice that in the diagrams above posted by onehundred80, it shows the filter element being installed by pushing it on the filter stalk while "twisting" the filter element. If you follow this technique, the filter element goes on fairly easy to the proper location. Besides applying an oil film to the O-rings when installing them, I also apply a small bit of new oil along the top & bottom sealing ring of the filter element before installing it onto the stalk..

 

This is a nice thread on "best practices" when performing an oil change on the Crossfire.

 

I've owned three Crossfires and done all my own oil changes. NEVER ONCE have I used a filter wrench.
I screw the filter carrier down until it bottoms out and STOP. Never seen it leak, but I would caution newbs to be sure they have that BIG O-ring installed in the right grove.

 

Same here.

I have used a non marring rubber strap wrench to make removing it a little easier.

 

Buy a reasonable quality 14 flute oil filter cap cup wrench. The cheap stamped-steel ones suffer deformation of the 3/8" drive female attachment point if they are not reinforced. AMHIK.

Here's a poor picture of a decent uxcell Car Vehicle 14 Flutes Oil Filter Cap Cup Wrench that I bought from Amazon. Note the sturdy nut with a 3/8" drive female inset. Not sure whether it's still available from amazon.

 

Hand tight is good enough after the flange on the cap hits the engine block.
It will not spray or leak even if left a couple of turns loose, not recommended though just in case it vibrated loose.
The seal is on the diameter faces when the O-ring enters the bore, the O-ring will be compressed and oil pressure forces the O-ring into the upper corner of the groove where it is close to the bore.

It is not a face to face seal which would leak if it was a bit loose as the O-ring would not be compressed enough.

 

Gee glad I asked the question so all could give good practices, much appreciated you have never failed me.

 

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Darn, so all this time that I’ve been turning the Crossfire on it’s side, I’ve been doing it wrong? 😜😜
In all seriousness, I totally agree that draining your oil is better than sucking it through a tube. How do you know that the tube has made it to the lowest point to get most of the oil? Also, I believe that the force of the flow of warm oil making its way to the drain hole when opened takes more of any loose contaminants with it that the suction method. IMHO

 

Do the "O" Rings come with the Oil Filter, or do they need to be purchased separately?

 

All the O-rings will be included in the box with the oil filter.

 

Thank you!!