My crossfire started stumbling and check-engine light came on. It was throwing a P0300 code for random cylinder misfire. It also threw P0301 - P0306 for each misfiring cylinder, respectively. I was about to spend hundreds of dollars on new coil packs and plug wires and plugs. But after some more research, I discovered some of these modern cars require <at least> 12.8 volts from the battery, else there can be problems with the electronics. So I checked, and I only had 12.3 volts on my battery. After charging it up and erasing the codes, the car ran fine again.
I checked the voltage to battery after it was running again to confirm the alternator was working. I had also cleaned the MAF sensor, while I was at it.
The low battery makes sense, as I've only been driving short, infrequent trips lately. Hope this helps save someone time and money.

 

That's awesome that your Crossfire is running smoothly again!

You're right about the battery voltage, but your battery should be putting out 12.8 volts when the vehicle is turned off. While running, the alternator increases that to the 13.7 - 14.7 volts range (I wasn't sure if you already knew that, I was a bit confused by what "checking the voltage to battery after running" meant). I'd wager cleaning your MAF probably helped more than replacing the battery.

Your engine running rough could've been caused by the misfire DTCs themselves too, I'd be on the lookout for that scenario. ECMs in some vehicles will limit air flow and fuel delivery to prevent damage to the cylinders, but I don't have any experience with misfires in the Crossfire specifically.

I'm replacing my plugs at 100,000 here pretty soon. I don't know how many miles you have, so I can't comment on whether a tune-up is a good idea or not.

Just wanted to throw my two cents out there. I hope your baby keeps on keeping on and the codes don't come back!

 

HI All,
I know this is an old post, but I just wanted to added an easy fix to the P0301 symptoms. I just got my xf smogged, and after I got the paperwork from the technician, I started the car, the check engine light came on, and I had a loss of power. I drove it home (2 miles), and checked the code - P0300 and P0301. Erased the codes, but they popped back up as soon as I started the car. After researching P0301, I opened up the hood, removed the cowl, and was proceeding on swapping the ignition coil from cylinder 1 to cylinder 4. I started to unclip the connector from the cylinder 1 ignition coil, when it just came out with very little force. Clipped it back in, put cowl back on, car started and ran fine. Erased the codes, and no codes reappeared. So, before spending a ton of money, check the ignition coil connections. Not sure why my connector fell out, but maybe the smog technician inadvertently pulled on it while doing the visual engine check.
-Jerry

 

Good info, thanks.

 

Those clips break very easily.
When I was doing my valve cover gaskets, I broke 4 of the 6 connectors. Luckily they still make new ones and they're not expensive.
I did a post on how to replace them.
Here's the link in case you need the part number or how to replace them.
- John
Coil plug replacement

 

My car cutting out at 2000/2500 rpm.
My car would crank but not start, got fault code for Crank sensor, replaced it, after few miles same thing, removed sensor and slight damage on sensor, replaced it. Started fine, drove for about 20 minutes and car cut out. Now car will start but won't rev over 2000/2500 rpm, it just dies, When it hits 2000rpm I get a loud 'bang' through exhaust and then engine dies.
I bought new relay module and PCM as thought it might be one of those, only to find out you can't programme them without special software and having trouble in UK to find someone.
I'm now thinking bad Lambda sensor or collapsed Cat' Convertor.
any one please assist.

 

Did you use an OEM Bosch sensor? These cars do not like non-Bosch sensor parts. Hope you track it down!


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