Really at my wits end here everyone.. need some help from the forum. Long story short my rear windshield was broke it rained through my tarp... the air locking system was soaked in water, and connections corroded. I since bought a used unit off eBay with new connectors and soldered everything in hoping that would fix the problem. The cars break lights also acted erratic and now have went totally out. The car will not unlock or lock from the key fob or button on the dash... its like its not even responding. Also, since this has happened my break lights are not working except the one on the rear windshield any help would be really appreciated.

 

did some research and looking over fuses 25,26 in relation to the central locking system EDIT: fuse's are fine.

 

Digging up this old thread because I'm still in need of help! I've recently have had some spare time and started working on the car again. When I purchased the used central locking unit it came with the connections. (my old ones were corroded from water damage) I've double checked all my wiring and soldering (everything is matching in color). I've even went a step further as to opening the unit and everything seems to be in order no corrosion it looks clean. The car will not unlock or lock from the dash or the key fob basically no response. I'm at a loss at this point & wondering if I purchased a bad unit, or if im having issues with wiring getting power/fuses. Possibly BCM? Please any help would be greatly appreciate! Edit, rechecked fuse 9 seems fine dome lights work etc, also checked fuse 25 & 26 for the central locking unit seems fine as well. Does anyone have a wiring diagram where i can start testing pinout voltage?

 

Start here:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ollection.html

 

Thanks, downloading it now to look over some things. Also can anyone help with this annoying hose it looks as if it’s been cut and it keeps blowing off no matter how hard I torque down, I have no idea what it’s called but everytime it blows off eventually and I lose all my coolent. Id like to just replace the whole hose.

 

So I figured out what I needed (still don’t know what it’s called maybe a cooling line coupler?) but if anyone could point me in the right direction maybe eBay or a part number? I need another connector with the metal clip to go on the other side of the butchered hose

 

Figured it out.. just done away with the little piece the previous owner cut, no idea if it’s supposed to be there or not but I just took the coupling and went straight to the motors nipple.

 

So from my understanding of the manual Skeem communicates to the BCM the BCM then communicates to the central locking pump? Basically pressing the button on the unlock/lock dash, as well as the key fob does absolute nothing. So I should start to troubleshoot why the BCM isnt communicating to the locking pump? Also from what im getting from the manual, the locking unit also communicates if the L/R door are ajar? I never noticed a door ajar light on my car while it was running etc. Or should I be starting at page 1256 of the service manual relating to the power going to the Central locking unit.

 

So I decided to start at the wiring of the central locking unit. Ive already verified fuse 9 25 and 26 are good in relation to the units power. I’ve never used a multi meter and I’m trying to make sure I’m doing this correctly so any help will be appreciated. I’ve attached a picture of my multi meter settings can anyone confirm this is correct I should be on dcv 20? & do i have the red and black wires in the correct places? (Because I’m only testing for 10vs? Also per the manual am I doing the actual test correctly? It says pin 2 and 4 are hot I’ve put the red wire into those pins and it’s showing the black wire just sitting on top the plastic at a certain spot? I’ve tested both 2 and 4 if this is the correct way with the key off and key on accessories power both pins tested dead.

 

Your meter setup is good. Red goes to the pin you want to measure, black goes to a known-good ground point.

You may need a clip lead extension to get enough length to get to a good ground. Besides, having a clip lead means the ground (black) wire of the meter is held in contact, so you have hands free to probe various pins. DO NOT believe your meter until you have measured 12 volts at a known source. That way, you know your meter setup is right. Also, keep in mind that clip leads have a short life span, so verify them often by measuring a known source of 12v. I often dasiychain several clip leads in a string and tie to the battery ground post. That way, if I measure voltage on a ground point, I know my ground is no good.

HERE:

 

THat is essentially how I understand the functions. The spoiler switch in the console is wired directly to the BCM. The BCM sends CAN BUS messages to the CLP/SSM. The reason the BCM is central to is all, is that the BCM manages things like interior (dome) lights, and it does this based on input from door and trunk switches, so it "Knows" the position of various hinges. So, if you want to put the top up or down, the BCM has to lower windows to do that.

Also, the BCM knows the status of the top, doors, etc.

My documentation only has section numbers, not page numbers, so I don['t know where 1256 is. All I can say, is to keep reading. The systems are confusing, the documentation is very poor (like all automotive documentation), and there is no 'tech support' to call, other than those of us on this forum.

Get in your mind a good idea of how it all works. The FOB talks to the SKREEM over 400mHz radio, the SKREEM is hard wired to the BCM, the BCM sends CAN BUSS messages (and it's a two-way conversation) to the CLP/SSM and Top Controller. Keep in mind, that if the BCM thinks the top is partway up or down, it will inhibit a few of the CLP/SSM's functions (roadsters only, of course).

 

Thanks pizza, I used a ground wire that’s in my trunk for my subwoofer to test. it’s worked fine in the past so I assume that’s a good ground. From what is going on I’m still getting 0v on pins suggested in my manual so now I’m guessing I have some failed wiring somewhere? Kind of hard to believe considering this only broke from my rear window seal being bad..

 

I don't assume anything, I verify. Making measurements that might be invalid is a waste of time. I earned a living from 1980 to 2011 troubleshooting electronic equipment to the component level. If your test data is not verified, your test results mean nothing. If you have 12 volts on a wire but test with a meter that has no ground, you will see 0 volts when there is really 12 volts there.

All battery feeds should show 11 to 12.6 volts with the engine off. Give it another 1-2 volts with engine idling.
DO NOT try to measure the wires of the CAN BUS, their readings mean nothing.

 

Yes sir thanks, I’ve verified the meter is getting 12v from my battery, I also verified that ground as being good I can confirm pins 2 and 4 suggested in the manual are dead. Where do I go from here? I think it’s very strange how this happened the unit worked fine until a trunk leak, after that it was sporadic I ordered a used one off eBay now since the car sat all of a sudden those wires are not getting power.

 

Anyone able to tell me what to do from here? Am I hunting down a cracked wire?

 

So I’m going to go purchase this tomorrow and attempt to run this cable break down

https://www.harborfreight.com/cable-tracker-94181.html

 

Opening this back up because I'm revisiting this. Im a bit confused but im viewing the service manual on how to trouble shoot the locking unit, I'm curious does the BCM push power to the unit or should I directly be getting power with the key on through fuses 25 and 26 to the unit
?

 

The CLP/SSM are powered by fuses 25 and 26 and this power does not "come thru the key", those are battery feeds and are hot at all times. If you don't have power on BOTH, you must fix that FIRST.

The BCM signals the CLP/SSM in the following manner:
1) The driver's door lock cylinder has two wires that run to the SKREEM to tell it when the key in the door turns the cylinder. The SKREEM has two more wire from it to the BCM so the BCM knows to tell the CLP/SSM to lock/unlock the doors and that the command came from the door cylinder.
2) When you use the lock or unlock buttons on the key FOB, there is a single wire from the SKREEM to the BCM, this is a bidirectional data line that the SKREEM uses to tell the BCM that the key FOB has sent an unlock or lock command. The BCM then tells the CLP/SSM to lock or unlock and that this is a command from the key FOB.

THese are SIGNALS, not power, being sent to the CLP/SSM. These signals travel over the separate CAN bus that connects the BCM, CLP/SSM and Power Top Control Module. (This is not the CAN BUS that the other modules are on that control the engine, automatic transmission, brake controller, etc..)

 

Thanks alot for the in-depth explanation pizza! So I guess at this point I'm going to reverify the fuses, test power at the unit with a volt meter and go from there. Also in the dash when I hit the lock or unlock nothing happens at all either I think the unit isnt getting power why I couldn't tell you when I purchsed the used unit the harness came with it and was clean..

 

Reverified all fuses, visited 8q-2 of service manual related to the security's system verified constant power to the dark green and red wire, as well as the yellow black wire there both getting constant power. I plugged the pump in, its making zero noise and nothing functions still. Going to keep trying to understand whats going on, the button on dash as well as key does nothing. Continued testing per service manual with engine on, reading 16v across both wires.. Manual suggests replace unit, but keep in mind my trunk got wet this all use to work fine, then went to working sporadically, I replaced with a clean used one off ebay. At this point I think im going to open the pump and investigate how its looking inside.