Im testing the ground currently can some one inform me if the black or brown wire is the ground I've tested both to a known good ground and I'm getting no OHM reading... bad ground somehow?

 

Pretty much at a loss again with this, when I purchased the used unit off ebay, it also came with the connections I've soldered them all made sure they are correctly matched. I pulled the white plug and noticed a good bit of corrosion on it, I cleaned it with CRC electric cleaner, then I opened the unit to notice a bit of corrosion on the back side of that white connection and did the same thing. Plugged everything back in and still nothing, nothing from key lock or unlock, no panic button, as well as the inside dash button.. Wondering if this is possibly BCM related?

 

After seeing another thread that stated a pin was missing from corrosion I double checked my white connection and I'm in fact missing a pin... the question is, is this pin in use and would it effect NOTHING working at all? It looks like the green wire in the far back right of the pic is the one that would not be connecting. If so is there anyway to save this? Could I maybe just cut the harness and solder that wire directly to the connection? Or is there a way to put another pin in it?

 

Well I soldered that wire to the missing pin the best I could.. I reinstalled and again nothing anywhere.. Starting to wonder if the unit off ebay is bad it seemed clean on the inside. Wondering if this is something related to the BCM idk anymore.

 

Quick update with some minor success, I pulled the unit from a local junk yard. The car also had a smashed rear windshield but they noted the car has not had a battery in it so possibly okay.. that area was full of water but barley touching the unit the way it was sitting. Unit looked great, no corrosion when I opened it up same with the harnesses I cut. I don't think any water got past the seal cleaned with electric parts spray just in case.. Resoldered all the new harnesses and the car unlocks and locks from the inside with everything shut. The problem is when I open one door and try to press the lock button again on the dash nothing happens. My key is also not doing anything unlock or lock.

 

Hi Mike,
great news that you are making progress. When you say "My key...", do you mean key fob is not opening and closing the locks or something else. Are you sure you have a good battery in the key fob? Also, when you use the key fob, do the turn signals flash? I'm think if your door is ajar/open, the door locks won't work. Also, the key fob open sequence can be programmed such that one press opens only the driver's door, and two presses open both doors. Another question: are all the locks opening (gas cap, trunk, center console) when you press the console switch? When you lock the doors, if you are inside the car, and use the door handle (inside) to open the door, do the other locks open as well?. BTW, the green wire is part of the CAN BUS so if it wasn't making contact then the BCM wasn't talking to the CLP. To check that now, measure the resistance between the green and white wires - (key off) it should be either 120 ohms or 60 ohms depending on what's connected to the bus.
-Jerry

PS. Instead of soldering the green wire to the board, you could've remove one of the unused pins from the connector, crimped it back on the wire, and inserted it into the connector in the right place. Any pin without a wire attached is a spare that you could use.

 

Thanks for the reply! Sorry let me clarify I mean my FOB, it does have a brand new battery, yes car battery is brand new and fully charged, when I use the FOB nothing happens at all no lights no noises. Keep in mind when the original unit failed due to water in the trunk I believe my FOB was working. Okay yes I was assuming the same thing that if a door is ajar the dash button simply wont function. Yes when everything is closed up, doors, trunk & gas everything opens and locks as it should. Yes all the doors unlock when I open the drivers side door from a locked position. Thanks for the tip about the green wire! That was on the older unit before I pulled this "new one" from the junkyard so all should be well with that now. I've seen other members suggest checking fuse 9 eveything looks fine there as well. Another strange thing when I installed this central locking unit, my tow light on the dash is now constantly red?

 

Im in a lot of pain right now and short on time but I will offer these two things:

1) The Coupe harness and Roadster harness are different - the coupe harness is missing a wire; always get the harness from a parts car that matches what you have.
1A) The CLP/SSM in the Coupe and Roadster are the same part, all CLP/SSMs are the same.
2) The connector/pins in the photo above belongs in the trash can. You need the last 2-3 feet of harness from a car that has had NO water damage. You CAN NOT clean/fix corroded pins; I earned a living as a radio/electronics technician from 1983 to 2010, sure, you can make it work, maybe, for a little while - then weird stuff starts happening.

Again, in a lot of pain and I gotta go relax.

 

Thanks pizza always a pleasure and I hope you feel better. The harness was pulled from a coupe thanks for the info! Yeah forsure belong in the garbage.. and thats exactly where they went lol. That unit is in the trash along with the old harness this unit from the junkyard and new harness seems to be working correctly now if I can just figure out this fob issue I think im back in business.

 

Funny story, I'll start with the fob. When I purchased a shell from ebay to swap my key I never put the second battery in, will chalk that one up to being a pollock lol! So that's functioning after programming. Now down the rabbit hole we go. The unit I purchased from the junkyard was doing very very strange things. At first the tow switch light was solid red when I installed it. I would lock all the doors from the fob and within 10-15 secs they would all unlock for no reason. (Does it matter where the yellow tubes go on the unit?) When I took tubes out and ran the pump for a minute it seemed like air was coming out of the middle hole very strong, while barley anything coming out the others. So me attempting to trouble shoot, I swapped to my original unit (that has the soldered green wire to the bored) now that I knew I had a functioning harness and its in fact dead. Going further I recycled the white manifold that goes to the pump and connects the yellow lines from the original unit thinking that possibly played a role in the junkyard unit because of the odd air flow. I then reinstalled a Frankenstein of both units and things seemed to get better. The tow light started flashing and the unlock and lock functions as it should when you press the fob. So basically whats happening now is when you use the button on the dash the driver side door and gas cover lock as it should but the passenger door and trunk does not lock or unlock I had my girlfriend try this while I was still in the car because if I opened the door from inside locked everything unlocks. Everything else seems to be functioning as it should when the fob is used. Any suggestions appreciated!

 

Switched the yellow tubes around and I think everything is working as it should! When im in the car with it running I press the lock button, my gf went around the car and everything locked except the gas tank im assuming that's how this is supposed to function? With the car off and using the fob everything locks and unlocks I would just like to thank everyone on the forum for the guidance and another repair! The middle nipple is for the driver side door the nipple closest to that is passenger the the remaining nipple furthest away is trunk and gas tank!

 

The gas cap only locks when the fob is used to lock the car from the outside. It stays unlocked when you are diving.The pump outlets are for the drivers door, passenger door and hatch/trunk and gas tank cover. The hatch and passenger door can be programmed to open when the drivers door is opened from the outside. When the roadster console is locked I cannot say, probably when the car is locked from the outside.

 

If i was not in such pain, I'd go test it, but I believe the console in the roadster is locked/unlocked with the driver's door. I'd bet money on it.

 

Hi Mike,
Congratulations on getting your XF up and running. Thanks for updating us on what the final problem and solution was.
Happy motoring.
-Jerry

 

Sorry to hear you are in pain, I hope it goes away soon.

 

I hope it's nothing serious and that you have a speedy recovery!