Hi
My Name is Dale and After following the forum for years decided to join in. I am the original owner of a 2007 Infernal Red Clearcoat Limited Roadster that my wife and I purchased to celebrate our 40th anniversary.. We also opted for the lifetime warranty offered by Chrysler at the time.. The car has 30,000 miles garaged and only used on nice days in the spring and fall and covered with the original crossfire cover purchased with the car. I replaced the original battery at 12 years ,not because it didn't work but I didn't want to get stranded . About a month ago I went to start the car and the battery was dead . I put it on a slow charge on the battery tender and tried to start it the next day . It started and died 2 times and then would not turn over and the radiator fan started and ran at full speed. I checked some postings on your forum and tried touching the pos and neg terminals together to reset. that did not work, I next removed the RCM and soldered all the joints. No change so I replaced the battery and a new RCM . still the same no crank. In order to make it easier to access the key start I lowered the top . Now the top won't work and the spoiler won't retract. I have tried to connect my OBD2 reader to the port . it powers up but won't communicate with the computer . The switch at the alarm override seems to be stuck. Both remotes operate the locks and the panic alarm ,windows and locks work work with the inside switches ,the top switch also operates the window. as it should ,but the spoiler switch stays red and doesn't operate the spoiler. I've checked and cleaned all the body grounds. Chrysler is giving me issues with the lifetime warranty and I would like to get the car back on the road. I would like advice on where to check next , any where to get a wiring diagram , and maybe some voltage check locations on the RCM. I feel it is not getting the right voltages at the right to complete the start sequence to the PCM. Any help would be greatly appreciated . Sorry for the long post but I know the more information you have the better.

 

You can check the operation of the RCM.
Open the RCM

You Tube

Reinstall.
Turn the key to the ON position.
2 of the 3 middle relays should remain in the closed position. If not, you may have a RCM problem that I can fix.

 

Lots of info here.

Index of Crossfire problems and repairs - CrossfireForum - The Chrysler Crossfire and SRT6 Resource

Have you checked the battery ground to the fender?

 

Great information ,looks like I will need to be better informed now that Chrysler won't honor their Lifetime Warranty .

 

Check closely what that (seemingly) lifetime warranty covers. In the past, 'lifetime' comes along with an 'open-ended' definition that is hard challenged in any 'potential' litigation action(s). Was this 'lifetime warranty' from Chrysler (FCA), or an aftermarket one offered when you purchased the car. IF it was 'offered' with the car at time of purchase, it most likely is an aftermarket one (and) you will have to dig up the contract for it's inclusions and limitations. Good luck!


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It was a Dealer offered warranty through Chrysler only for a short time to help move the last of the Crossfire inventory. It worked well in the past when I needed a new brake booster but was told at that time that since most parts were no longer available that the warranty would probably not be honored in the future. I've appealed to Chrysler with all the documentation and am waiting for an answer in the meantime I would like to get the car back on the road . Hard to believe that a dead battery would cause all the problems that I have . I'll look this afternoon into body to engine ground , I fear that by hooking and unhooking the battery so often I have disabled the Skreem .

 

Even though you have replaced it, I’m inclined to steer you back to the RCM as suggested above. I’m a radio tech with lots of experience with defective solder joints. The culprits are usually the high current solder connections to the printed board. You need a jewellers loop to actually see that the thicker pins have separated from the solder. When resoldering concentrate on heating the larger relay pins, not the solder trace and let the solder flow from the pin and onto the trace. Assuming you have desoldered and cleaned with flux remover. it solved all of my no start problems. I believe there is a lot more info on RCM fixes on the forum.

 

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OP, check out this post ( https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...sue-alone.html ). I had quite a hard time locating this problem with my car. It gave all the symptoms of the RCM but the RCM was fine. It will not cost you a penny to check it out! My problem was three (3) connectors in the RCM harness that were broken (manufacturing error/defect) right above the pins of the RCM within the connector plugging into the RCM. Check all those one at a time and do not mix them up (take pictures and make sure they go back into the correct locations after you open up those connectors). Inspect the 'cap' where the wire is soldered making sure they are still connected to the wiring/sleeve that marries to the RCM pins. It is ALL outlined in the above post! Let us know the results? Good luck!


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Dale,
I changed the battery and the car would not start:
It runs 3 seconds then quits.
2nd try just clicks
3rd try just clicks
this is reported over and over in the forum.
the car thinks someone is trying to steal it.
You have done all the key fob things. use the actual key to lock and
unlock the doors at least 3 times. The car may be convinced that you are the real owner and start!
I have started many makes and models with this simple trick.
I finally towed the car to a garage and they used their expensive diagnostic machine to do a reset. 5 minutes, $100.
the car ran fine for 6 months. *** I NEVER SAW "doing a reset" REPORTED ON THE FORUM *** Its usually change this or change that.
Yesterday, the car started 3 different times on trips around town. On the way home the wing went up half way, and
all the warning lights came on, I mean all, brake, etc. I got the car home and it would not start. Battery is only a few months old.
Tried all the Key fob tricks, took out the RCM and soldered the infamous contacts, burnished the relay contacts, and did a good visual inspection.
Still wouldn't start. Now listen to this! I was holding the key over in the starting position and wiggling the shift leaver and turning all the lights
switches and then I put slight pressure on the Speed Control stalk! the car started!!! I turned it off and it would not start unless I put pressure on
the speed control stalk!! Maybe pressure is being put on the steering column and making contact somehow? All the warning lights stayed on
even after starting. At least I can drive it to the garage for a Control Module reset...I hope it fixes it again.

 

Congrats on the crossfire. And yes.. it's always electrical. You were fine > replaced the battery > new battery drained (odd) > no start.
I know this may sound lame but it really does fix quite a lot of quirky but serious issues -- pull / check and reseat your fuses (like all of them).
This car demands a 100% working battery or the car 'will go funny'. double check your battery ground cable to frame - clean it.

 

The Crossfire Security system thinks that somebody is trying to steal the car after the battery disconnect. First try using the manual key to open and close the doors 3 times, Do this with both remotes. If that doesn't fix it have it towed to a garage that has a high end diagnostic machine. (the little ones will not reset the security Electronics). My car was reset in 2 minutes and everything has worked OK for 6 months..

 

Well today, driving on turnpike in South FL came to the exit ramp and the '04 xfire just died. No start, so had it towed home. It was about 2 hours since the no start and put on the scan reader, no codes were shown. I then turned the key and viola the xfire started. I had changed the CPS (crank shaft position sensor) about 2 weeks ago but I have also noticed the bracket under the hood latch for the security was missing one of the two the rubber grommets. Could this be the cause of the issue since that bracket is moving around and it thinks it is being stolen, even though it was running? I am at my wits end and may just have to move on. It only has about 90K miles.

 

Did you use a Bosch CPS, or some other brand?

 

You won't get any help with that amount of information.

"No Start" can mean all sorts of things - so,
Did the starter engage but engine would not start?
OR..........
Did the starter not even engage?

That would be where I would start. Given the car started later, my guess (and it's a guess, since you gave no information), would be that the starter refused to engage AND that if you'd left the key in the "ON" position for maybe 45 seconds, you would have heard the engine fan warp up to high speed - both indications of a faulty RCM.

If so: Yank the RCM and send it to DJ for reworking and you will be fine.

 

Hi neimro and pizzaguy, thanks for the response, yes used the BOSCH for the CPS. With the key in the on position the fan does come on but no start (starter does not engage don't hear any clicks) but on turning the key it was a no start not leaving it on for 45 seconds. On sending the RCM to DJ, can the address be posted since I am not familiar with DJ.
If I brought a new RCM does it need to be re-programmed?

 

I'm DJ
Email me at tighed1@hotmail.com for the details on getting your RCM refurbished.

 

Just sent off an email, thanks much appreciated.

 

I'm Alessandro from Italy Rome and in the past I had a lot of issues you can find in this post, now they seem solved, really a lot things done and it should be hard understand what it worked.
For sure I always follow what I found here.
Thanks for all the help!

This time the main issue is the radiator fan who start and never stop. Probably the cause as I can see upper, it could be a dead battery.
I changed the fan relay and the mechanic tried different things but it seems impossible to solve.
Any other help will be really appreciated, thank you in advance!

 

Hi TomBishop, is it the same issue of turn the key and lights come on but the starter does not click or the starter clicks and starts but then shuts off?

 

Hi mariontr, thanks for the reply, now the car seems start after I did the selding to the pin of the RCM.
The problem is the fan radiator who never stop.

We really don't know how to fix it.