I think the previous owner was getting cute and being very stupid any idea what this is? I am thinking either a kill switch (bottom left of picture 1)or some sort of override for the top/wing. Doesn't affect the car starting, but no hydraulics operating. Yellow added wire goes all the way to the front of the car(picture 3) but isn't connected. Looks like a ground maybe disconnected Green and red and and black and green are the wires that are cut in back

 

The owner may not be a POS, he may be another person who knows NOTHING about electronics and yet, thinks he can "figure out how to do this". (What ever "it" was.....)

YOu've got to get the wiring diagrams out and, using wire color and the pin each lead connects to, you can figure out what he did. If ou can't, I might be able to if you can give me details of what is going on in the trunk lid.
If the top won't work, it can be this or it can be unrelated. But I will tell you this, it looks like an attempt to MAYBE alter how the wing deploys.

If so, it could be that he disconnected the limit switches, or one of them, from the BCM. In that case, the BCM may be telling the top: "Do not move, I think the wing is messed up". It could also be wiring to the trunk latch switch for something, which is also bad, the CLP/SSM must know when the trunk is closed in order to let the top controller move the top.

I just can't tell from the photos exactly what connector and pin(s) are involved in the trunk lid.

I live up by Colleyville if you want to stop by sometime.

 

I have to get it back road legal first been sitting for at least 6 years I think. Other thing I found out is when they put in the concealed switch they used the hole that the drain tube connected to from the wing slot. Trunk had probably 6 inches of water underneath the foam.

 

So the CLP/SSM is bad, the anti-theft two censor is bad and the top controller may be impaired as well.

Yea, you have WORK to do.....

 

NEVERMIND - CLP SSM is toast
Does it have to match part number exactly or will any from a SLK work
My pN is 1708000848
I see an 1708000448 with wiring harness on Ebay states for same year vehicles.

I think I got lucky. The side with the CLP/SSM and sensor is dry. The drain hole they used all went to the other side of the boot. At least I hope. Put all the wiring back together and central locking is still not working. I have looked and searched and seen references to testing the CLP/SSM for operation, but no actual procedure. Any help appreciated.
Central locking is not working at all from remote or switch.
Interior lights are working when turned on manually
Fuse 9 is good
Relays are good
lights blink when fob pressed.
Ideas?

 

Pizza, you mentioned the antitheft 2 sensor. Is that the module in the lower right hand side of the trunk by where the SSM is? I replaced the SSM and it worked one time, but acted like the alarm was going off (horn is disconnected) I started the car as inserting the key and powering on did nothing. Now it is blowing fuse 9 as soon as one is inserted.

 

Two things:

1) The CLP/SSM is the same in all Crossfires (SRT/Limited/Coupe/ROadster). But as to taking one from another car, I"m not so sure.
2) Fuse 9 ONLY feeds the ORC, that is, the airbag module, buried in the center console, down under the ashtray/passenger airbag light/cigarette lighter.

Also, lights blink means the SKREEM is good, but not so much the CLP is good. See below for what module drives what lights. The PDF goes into it a bit more. Section 4 explains how the flashing of all the lights work.
I cant see how the antitheft sensor can blow that fuse. I'm just wondering if the CLP/SSM you have is really compatible. Sorry, but I"ve never taken one from an SLK and I don't know of anyone who has.
I have fixed three convertible tops that did not work by putting in a replacement CLP/SSM from parts cars - but never used an SLK version.

 

yay! doors lock and unlock now with remote.
Boo trunk does not lock or unlock with remote.
Are there any good trouble shooting guides to just the trunk central locking mechanism? I do not hear any air leaks so far and don't know of a good way to test the trunk mechanism? Will just pulling a vacuum on the disconnected line work?
How do you remove the plastic line or can you from the grey splice connector from the door locks to the trunk line?

 

ok, got all locks working now with new to me SSM and CLP.
They had disabled the rear latch by zip tying a rubber spacer so it couldn't disengage. Simple fix once I understood how the mechanism worked and found it.
Fuse 9 was blowing because they had cut the wires to the alarm but not capped them. They were shorting against the firewall when arming disarming the car. This is why it was a bit random.
On to the convertible roof now.
Windows roll down and then it just beeps at me. Hope the pump isn't toast but I think it is something else as the system seemed to be pressurized when I tried to manually put the roof down. Pump is full of fluid.
Also I do not think the rear bow latch is unlocking, or it is not getting to that step. Once I unlatch the roof and push up the windows go down, but immediately starts beeping when I push the button. If I push the button to close the roof and manually latch it continues to beep until I power cycle the car.
Roof will not go up from the stowed position either so I don't think it is the divider switch as it beeps at me in that direction too. Is there a good way to test the switch in the windshield frame and the other limit switch in the roof frame?
I am highly suspecting one of either the bow latch or the deck lid latch. The brown wire to the bow latch was twisted together( just bare wire). I resoldered, but not sure it is working correctly.
I do not hear the electronic lock engage.
After replacing the SSM/CLP and wiring as described what is the next logical step to troubleshoot? I have read of a roof control module? Is that part of the BCM? or a separate module?
Searching roofs and not working is a bit hard as I have about 30 pages of threads to go through

 

THe text marked "1)" proves that the "Retainer latch switch" is OK.

The text marked "2)" is evidence there is more wrong than the divider/top open (above the passenger's head) switch.

THe Top Controller is the square black box hanging next to the power top pump in the left rear wheel well.

I am troubled that someone has messed with the wiring to the bow latch, that gives me the idea that someone unqualified was working on this before you. Bad sign, means ANYTHING could have been messed up by them.

The fact you get a beep right away tells me the electric lock is not activating due to the top controller not being happy about something. Things that will cause the top controller to refuse to move the top and fail to activate the electric lock are:
No indication from the trunk latch switch that the trunk is fully closed.
Signal from the BCM that the car is moving too fast to move the top.
Lack of confirmation response from the CLP/SSM when the top controller asks if it should move the top (this happens in an instant when you press the top UP/DOWN button).

I gotta think this thru, I might be forgetting something.

 

I named this thread for a reason
going to go read the manual on trunk latch/lock operation and troubleshooting as I know that needs sorting.

 

Trunk latch will operate when 12 volts is applied
No voltage coming from connector to actuator when button pressed
measured the trunk latch actuator ohms per the manual page 23-151 or 3699 in the PDF and I am getting 6 ohms which according to the manual means the power top control module is bad.

Any other tests I should run on the power top control module before ordering a replacement. Visual inspection of connectors and board don't show any signs of corrosion or damage, but that doesn't mean anything.

 

Top control modules really don't go bad. I cant remember, since showing up here in 2009, where a TCU fixed anything. You might read my "Top Sensors" thread in the Roadster forum if you haven't.

Now, you say "Trunk latch" will work, but what I think you mean is that the electric lock will operate, is that right?
Keep in mind, the TCU will only activate that lock IF, and only IF, it has all of what it looks for from the sensors and modules.

... The CLP/SSM has to agree.
... The divider/top open sensors must apply a ground to the pin at the TCU. (Not checked when putting top UP but is checked when putting top DOWN.)
... The BCM must respond to the TCU's interrogation with "go ahead" - which means the windows are either down or going down, the car is not going over 9mph, the BAS/ESP system is working right and the wing is either fully UP or fully DOWN.
... The trunk latch switch indicates that the trunk is fully closed.

If there are issue with the power windows, BAS/ESP, CLP/SSM or if you have a top cylinder indicating a 'bad' or 'wrong' position, OR if the TCU has simply lost track of the top's status, the top won't move and the lock won't engage.

 

good to know on the TCM as those are costly.
Let me go check all the sensors and switches.

Yes I meant the electronic lock will operate when voltage applied, but not getting any voltage to connector when trying to open top.
Will go read some more.
Thanks for the direction

 

I think I need to change approaches after reading some more.
What I do know so far
1. The wing is not working properly. Motor is good
Dash is lit up like a christmas tree - BAS/EPS TC etc. my understanding is that affects the wing. Does it affect manual operation?
2. I think the trunk latch closed switch is not working. the switch always has continuity no matter what position the trunk latch is in. I understand this is very hard to test without a STAR system.
Before I spend anymore time on the lid I am going to concentrate on the wing and get it working properly.

 

Disconnect the trunk latch switch. The connector is behind the plastic cover. I think it is a 2 wire connector. The trunk latch switch has a tendency to fail because the switch lever is under constant pressure when the trunk is closed/locked and over time is gets bent to the point it will not activate the switch. This circuit depends on the trunk latch switch being closed to provide an non-ground state to allow the top controller to activate the top pump and I believe the wing motor. If the trunk in not closed, neither the wing or the top will operate as an open trunk will interfere with the tonneau operation. This trunk latch switch is unserviceable as it is buried deep inside the trunk latch. Disconnecting it will present a non-ground state to the BCM and allow operation. I solved the same problem on my Roadster by installing a "mercury switch" on the trunk to mimic the trunk latch. Remember open circuit allows operation, ground is no go.

 

Thanks for that, still dead. I am starting to think it is the BCM as I get continuity at the motor connector and at the BCM pins for the wing motor leads.
Now if I could just get the thing out to test properly...

 

You told me this before, I am TRYING to memorize the fact that "grounded means trunk is not closed all the way.........." It's funny, cause a lot of the time, grounded means "good" or "in place" or "ready".

 

Just remember, most non-lighting circuits are switched on the "ground" side", then look at the logic of the circuit to determine what condition is required to perform the function. Lots of reverse logic I have found out.

 

Can anyone test their Wing motor connector and tell me if you have continuity between the two wires when the car is off? Also test with trunk open and closed (switch connected and disconnected) if possible.
Troubleshooting BCM
If you don't want to take off the trunk cover off it is pins 14 and 15 on the BCM