Hi All,
Here's my sad story - about 10 months ago I drove my 2005 crossfire automatic roadster home after doing some errands and parked it in the driveway. Next day I hopped in to go to breakfast, put the key in as usual, lights come on on the dash, I hear the usual noises like the fuel pump, but when I turn the key to start, nothing happens - no starter solenoid click, nothing. The shift lever wouldn't come out of park.

Symptoms:
1) dash board lights come on when key is turned to the on position
2) turning the key to the start position, nothing happens
3) there is a black square in the space on the instrument cluster that should show the gear shift lever position (P, R, N, D, etc..). I didn't notice this until after I started my diagnostics, so I don't know if it was there from the very beginning or occurred latter on.
4) with my foot on the brake, and the key in the ignition in the "on" position, the shift lever was stuck in the park position.
5) never got the 3 starts and you're out. Key Fob opens and closes the door locks. Console switch group works.

What I've tried so far:
1) I removed the lower dash panel, removed the brake light switch, tested it with an ohm meter, seemed to be okay, re-installed it checking the clearance and travel. Pushing 3 times on the brake pedal, a little harder each time, turned the key to the ON position, shifter comes out of park now.
2) Given that the RCM is usually the issue, I swapped out the RCM with one from a working XF, no change. I put the RCM from the not working XF into the working one, and everything seemed to work okay.
3) I measured all of the pins on the RCM and pulse module with the ignition key in the on position. I pulled down the fuel pump secondary relay coil using a 5 ohm resistor on pin 3E (pin 3, connector E on the RCM) to ground. This activates the fuel pump relay to apply 12V to pin RCM 3B, fuel pump power, but I didn't hear the fuel pump go. I bled the fuel rail schrader value, connected rcm 3E back to ground, watched the fuel pressure climb, and measured 60psi from the fuel pump. Fuel pump seems to be okay. I put a 5 ohm resistor on pulse module connector A, pin 2 and connected that to ground through a momentary switch. If I close the momentary switch nothing happens, but if a turn the key to start, and close the momentary switch simultaneously, the start motor engages (12V on PM 1B gets connected to PM 1F). Unfortunately, the car still doesn't start. I think the RCM and the PM seem to be working as expected. Some other details: to jump the connector pins, I opened the back panel on the connector. To protect the PCM, I pulled the socket out of the connector (RCM 3E or PM 2A). The space between the pin coming out of the RCM housing connector and the plastic of the connector plug was very tight - the lead of a 1/4 Watt resistor worked pretty well. Initially, I tried using a 100 ohm resistor to ground, but that didn't work - the relay didn't close, but it turned out that you need at least 160 mA to activate the relay (the spec sheet for the relay says 120 mA min - not sure why it's 160mA...)
4) I dropped the TCM panel under the passenger seat to inspect the TCM for any transmission oil wicking up - the transmission and radiator fluids had been replaced about 2 months earlier so I just want to be sure. I disconnected all of the connectors on that panel, didn't observe any oil, but still sprayed all the connectors with electronic contact cleaner and reinstalled - no joy.
5) I removed the center console to get to the SLA. (more details below) The SLA connector was another connector that just would not come out. Eventually, I used a thin metal shim between the connector and the housing to remove it. There is a small hook on the connector plug body that engages into the housing connector body. I measure 12v and ground on the correct SLA pins. I measured the continuity between the SLA CAN bus pins and the TCM CAN bus pins. I measured the SLA can bus termination - it was 37kohms.
6) I had bought a micropod II clone a while back, but it did seem to work. Looking on the web, I found that there was a defect, and if you soldered one leg of a transistor to ground, it would work. I spent a while doing that, but I finally succeeded. I connected it up, and seemed to be able to talk to all the modules. I checked if the SLA was reading Park, and it was. The TCM was reading Park, and it was. I could talk to the instrument cluster (change the time, enable/disable the gear position indicator, etc...), so I still don't understand why I have the black rectangle in the IC. I read a DTC on the IC - P0600 IC/HVAC no can bus communication.
7) So now that it seems to be a CAN BUS issue, I read up on the CAN BUS. As far as I can tell, the PCM, the SKREEM, the SLA, the TCM, the CAB, and the IC are on the same CAN BUS. The BCM and the CLP/SSM are on another CAN BUS. The PCM and the SKREEM modules have the 120 ohm termination resistors. When I back probe pins 1 and 11 on PCM C4, I measure 140 ohms. When I do the same thing on the other working XF, I measure 60 ohms. When I remove the PCM C4 connector, and probe pins 1 and 11, I measure -3Mohms (yes, negative 3 mega ohms) => I have a voltage on the pins. Measuring voltage, I measure -0.67 Volts. With the negative battery terminal disconnected, I measure 0 volts and around 100 kohms. I'm guessing I have either a bad module on the can bus or an open can bus wire. I've started measuring the continuity between the different modules, but first I have to make long probe leads so I can connect one end to the PCM and the other to inside the passenger compartment.

Sorry for the long post, but if you've made it this far, thanks for reading my sad story. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I like to write down more details then are probably needed for discussion, but I find I usually have to refer back to what I did before to solve some other problems that may come up.

-Jerry
PS. I just notice I misspelled rectangle in the title, but it won't let me edit the title.


More details on removing the center console: This was not as easy as the youtube videos and some of the forum discussion make out. I had four issues removing the center console
1) it seems none of the videos I watched or blogs I read were on a limited - the center console part between the seats has a pneumatic lock with very little slack in it. It took me a while to figure out how to remove it, but how I finally did it was to remove the cup holder pocket and using long nose pliers pop the T bar of the pneumatic switch out of the forks in the lock. Then I removed the clip holding the pneumatic switch to the lock. Now, after removing the 2 screws and 2 nuts, the boot on the emergency brake using a heat gun, I could slide the console out.
2) If you have an after market radio, remove the auxiliary cage that is used to hold it into the XF OEM pocket. I have a Kenwood radio with the cage. It looked like the cage should just come out with the fascia, so I started prying up around the trim. The trim came up, but left the attaching half behind. Once I figured that out, I removed the cage, the fascia came out easily, except in my case, the black backing plate was separated form the silver trim. Fortunately, using PVC primer and glue, the plastic glued back together without a problem. Seems just as strong as new.
3) Removing the connectors from the center console switch assembly was a bear as many youtube videos suggest don't remove them it you don't have to. There is one long 14 pin connector and a couple 4 pin connectors which only have one pin populate. The long connector came out fairly easily, but the small ones wouldn't budge. I probably don't have the hand strength I once did, but even with pliers, I couldn't get them out. The pliers just seemed to be destroying them. Figuring I had nothing to lose, I drilled holes through the connectors - they only had one wire in them, so I drilled a 1/16" hole close to the line separating the connector plug from the housing connector. I then put a small allen wrench through the hole, and pried up on the allen wrench using a screwdriver. The connectors came out pretty easily after that.
4) Removing the ashtray, cigarette lighter housing - some videos say move it one way or another and it should pop out - didn't work for me at all. Reading the blog about adding paddle shifters, it recommended cutting the plastic holding the two sides of the console together - it's a plastic bar behind the SLA, i.e., towards the trunk of the car. Using a exacto knife balsa saw, I cut the plastic bar. Now I could lever the two sides apart, and pull the ashtray console out.

 

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Although I have no idea what is wrong with this members car, I applaud his/her attention to detail! Well Done! Good Luck!


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I applaud your serious attempt to get this fixed, but I would caution you: This sounds eerily familiar to what happened to another member whose car refused to engage the starter after some work was done: He had a connector not completely seated at the ECU. This cost him a over two weeks of time and a lot of money to find.

SInce you started a new thread (which is usually something we jump on people for, but in this case, I think was a good idea) I will say what I may have said before: Start at the basics before getting too deep.

So you say the starter won't engage, and you, at one time, had a "blank black square" in place of the gear indicator and could not get out of Park. After struggling, you have it coming out of Park.

I can't remember if you tried this, but lets start here:

• Turn key to start, if starter does not engage, relax to ON. Wait 45 seconds.
• If engine cooling fan warps to max speed, its' the RCM.
  • "But mark, he already changed the RCM" - yea, the other guy did too - and nothing changed, this told me that the RCM was not at fault, but the wiring from RCM to ECU WAS at fault. Two weeks later, that is what he found and fixed it himself.
• If cooling fan does NOT speed up, then the RCM is fine.

Now, this "blank" in the gear indicator window: That is a sign the TCU is not alive, or at least it is not talking to the "message center" (stupid name for it). But you fixed that, altho as I read your post I am unclear how you fixed that.

Quote:

3) I measured all of the pins on the RCM and pulse module with the ignition key in the on position.

So you measured ALL pins? That does not help us help you if you dont follow that with, "And I found ....................." You never finished this thought (or I read too fast).


Now, you mentioned the pulse module and how you got the starter to engage, I have tried that trick but the way I do it is:
Turn key to ON.
Use a rubber band to force the fuel pump relay to supply fuel pressure to the injectors.
Manually press the armature on the pulse module starter relay - starter engages.

When doing this, if the engine still wont start, it is because the ECU is not firing the plugs/injectors. It is not doing so for the same reason it won't engage the starter - your challenge is to find out what the reason is.
The reason is either the ECU is bad (it isn't) or because one or more of the power feeds to the ECU is not 'there', or because the ECU is not getting what it needs to run the engine.
What does it need?

1. Information from the cam sensor on camshaft position and speed.
2. INformation from the crank sensor on crankshaft position and speed.
3. Permission to start from the SKREEM.
4. Information from various sensors (IAT, MAF, TB, Pedal sensor, etc.)
   1. Some of these in 4. are not really needed to start, but needed to run properly.

My last comment is that, after 40 years of electronic troubleshooting (and your issue IS electronic) that it is tempting to make things harder than they are. This happened in the other thread I mentioned, I repeatedly warned him, "When you figure this out you are going to say 'Damn, that suddenly makes sense' ". In his case, he modded the car and it quit running, so that was an easy prediction to make. I do not remember the history of the car you are working on, so I will not make such a prediction.

THe fact you have a "no crank" and no gear indication would SEEM to be caused by the same issue - and that leaves us with FEW suspects. Again, i do not remember the history of the car, so I can't say that for sure, but if that IS true, you will not need to get all that deep to get this fixed.

 

Hi Mark,
Thanks for your response. I think I've beaten the RCM to death - I've left the ignition on for over ten minutes multiple times while I measured the voltage on all of the RCM and PM connector pins (see below for reference) - the fans never started or rev'd. I've taken the PCM, BCM and RCM connectors off numerous times to check for corrosion, bad/bent pins, broken wires or to reseat, so I don't think I have the same issue as Jonathandugan20 - he had his ECM programmed for new keys, but it seems in the end he didn't put the ECM connector back correctly. Also, you're thinking about 1sweetride - he cleaned connector C207, and his black rectangle disappeared after that - that didn't work for me. I'm starting to think it might be the SKREEM even though I never had the 3 starts and you're out symptom. But checking the resistance between the CAN BUS + and - lines with the PCM C4 connector disconnected, I didn't measure 120 ohms, more like an open. I think what throws me off is that I have a DRB III clone working, and it can talk to the SLA and TCM, so those modules seem okay. The only DTC I read is from the instrument cluster P0600 IC/HVAC comm error - not sure how not talking to the HVAC prevents starting. I thought at one time when I was playing around with the DRB III software I found something saying start enable. Maybe that was in the SKREEM. I'm still not comfortable with the DRB III software, but I see if I can find that again. Maybe I can also check the cam and crankshaft sensors with the DRB III.
-Jerry


Here are the voltages I measured on the RCM and PM with the ignition key in the ON position - everything looks nominal to me:

RELAY CONTROL MODULE A - BLACK 4 WAY
CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1 20BR/VT (EXCEPT SRT) AIR PUMP RELAY CONTROL 12V
1 20GY/BL (SRT) AIR PUMP RELAY CONTROL
2 16RD/BL FUSED ENGINE CONTROL RELAY OUTPUT 12V
3 16RD/DG FUSED ENGINE CONTROL RELAY OUTPUT 12V
4 12RD/WT AIR PUMP RELAY OUTPUT 0V

RELAY CONTROL MODULE B - BLACK 5 WAY
CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1 12RD FUSED B(+) 12V
2 12RD FUSED B(+) 12V
3 14RD/DG FUEL PUMP RELAY OUTPUT 0V (applies 12V when RCM 3E is grounded)
4 14RD FUSED B(+) 12V
5 18BR GROUND 0V

RELAY CONTROL MODULE C - BLACK 5 WAY
CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1 - -
2 - -
3 - -
4 18RD/YL TRACTION SYSTEM RELAY OUTPUT 12V
5 18RD/DG TRACTION SYSTEM RELAY OUTPUT 12V (goes to TCM and SLA)

RELAY CONTROL MODULE D - GRAY 3 WAY
CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1 20YL HORN RELAY CONTROL 12V
2 18PK/RD FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT 12V
3 -

RELAY CONTROL MODULE E - GRAY 7 WAY
CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1 16BK/PK FUSED HORN RELAY OUTPUT 0V
2 20RD/WT FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT 12V
3 18BL/RD FUEL PUMP RELAY CONTROL 12V (short to grd, draws 0.16A)
4 18BK/DG FUSED B(+) 12V
5 16RD/DG FUSED ENGINE CONTROL RELAY OUTPUT 12V
6 18RD/DG FUSED ENGINE CONTROL RELAY OUTPUT 12V
7 -

PULSE MODULE A - BLACK 5 WAY
CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1 12BK FUSED B(+) 12V
2 20PK/RD SENSOR GROUND 0V (need to connect to grd while turning ignition key to start position)
3 - -
4 - -
5 12BR GROUND 0V

PULSE MODULE B - BLACK 2 WAY
CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1 16VT (A/T) FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT 0V
1 20VT (M/T) CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH OUTPUT
2 14PK/RD FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT 12V

PULSE MODULE F - 1 WAY
CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1 14VT/WT STARTER SOLENOID OUTPUT 0V (applies 12V when ignition key is turned to start)

 

Hi All,
Update. I finally had time to continue troubleshooting this weekend. I think my problem is a bad splice on the SKREEM and IC (-) Can Bus lines. I measured the resistance between the 6 modules on the CAN C BUS. I found that both the PCM and the SKREEM have the correct CAN BUS termination resistance (~122 ohms), but I have an open circuit from the CAN C BUS (-) terminals on the SKREEM and the IC. I could have multiple opens, but both those signals go through the S116 splice, so I figure that's the first place I'll look.
More details: to make this measurement I had to take the center console out to get to the SLA connector; I had to remove the instrument cluster to get to the IC connector and the SKREEM; I had to open up the passenger side front wheel well carpet to get to the TCM; remove the CAB connector, and open up the control box to back probe the PCM. I bought a set of back probes off of Amazon, and I must say, they were well worth the $25 bucks I spent on them.
The table below shows the measurements from each pin on the CAN C BUS to each other. Since I left the PCM C4 connector connected to the PCM, I would expect to measure either a short between pins or ~122 ohms. In most cases I got that except on the SKREEM and IC CAN C BUS (-) lines where they were open. I also checked to see if anything was shorted to ground, but they all were open relative to ground.In order to make the measurement between the PCM and any of the modules internal to the cabin, I used about 15 ft of speaker wire with the two speaker wire conductors twisted together at the ends. Even so, the resistance was on the order of 4 ohms. So my PCM measurements are offset by that resistance.
The figure below is from the Crossfire service manual. I drew yellow squares showing which lines are open, and a red oval around the splice I think is my issue. Hopefully I'll be able to find that splice next weekend and it solves my problem. Unfortunately, the manual only indicates that the splice S116 is on the left side of the steering wheel and behind the instrument cluster. Hopefully, it'll be obvious, but I doubt it.
How does this fit in with the symptoms - the IC isn't displaying the gear shift lever position which it gets from the SLA over the CAN BUS. If the PCM can't talk over the CAN BUS, or at least can't talk to the SKREEM, it probably won't let the car crank.

 

Don't want to hurt my brain trying to follow all of this LOL. Humor me and check that the traction control relay is closing when the key is in the ON position.

 

Hi Tighed1,
Thanks for the suggestion. Yes those relays are closing. I also measured the voltage on the output of the relay. RCM pins 4c, 5c, 5E, and 6E all measure 12V with the key in the "on" position showing the relays are closed.
-Jerry

 

Hi All,
It has turned out to be a good Thanksgiving for me - after nearly a year, my wife's crossfire has started again.The issue turned out to be a splice (S124) that went bad in the CAN bus circuit. That spice is located under the brake booster in the engine compartment. I tried to get to it, but the only way I could see how was by removing the brake booster. I didn't want to do that, so I cut the splices S116 and S117 which are below and to the left of steering wheel, remove the broken line from the splice, spliced a new wire in, and ran the wire to the SLA CAN wires. I put the minimum back together so I could test it first. Started on the first try. Hurrah. Now I have to put the interior back together and dress all of the harness that I unwrapped.

Some Details: The CAN bus has 120 ohm terminating resistors located in the SKREEM and the PCM. Since my SKREEM was isolated from the PCM, I would read 120 ohms instead of 60 ohms when I would probe between the white and green CAN bus wires. One side note, the minimum things that need to be plugged in to start the car was the SKREEM, the IC, the SLA, the TMU, the CAB, and the PCM. My steering wheel airbag was not installed, neither were my radio, and the center console switch

 

Great detective work, I'm happy that you got it figured out!

 

The OP showed a lot of patience, if it were me the car would have been towed away long ago.