When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Troubleshooting & Technical Questions & ModificationsHave technical or modification questions about the Crossfire?
Find out the answer, or give advice in here!
I emailed DJ Tighe this past Wednesday and asked about current prices to have him repair the RCM from the 04 I'm working on. I have not heard from him. When he repaired the RCM out of my free 04 that I was working on about 4 years ago, he was quick to reply. I'm wondering if he has changed his email address since that time, or has he retired from repairing the RCM? The address I have is tighed1@hotmail.com
Thanks for any info on this situation..
Also, I had purchased a replacement cubby to use in place of the broken cup holder. Well, I was hoping to just slide it in the hole left when I removed the cup holder, but it was too tight a fit. It likely would fit if I removed the center console and then took out the remains of the broken cup holder frame. That is what I was trying to avoid. So I spent an hour modifying the front of the 3d printed tiny box so that it would slide into the console. $34 shipped from Ebay. Think if it were to happen again, i would just build my own.
This car also has a penchant for burned out bulbs. Drivers side marker, passenger rear side marker, drivers parking light, no bulb at all in passenger side fog light, and one of the overhead dome lights is out as well. All are fixed except the dome light which I should get to tomorrow. Then back to fine tuning the bumper repair. Oh, and someone installed a Pioneer radio/etc. which only works out of the passenger side speakers. Checked the balance and fade, etc., but that didn't help. Wiring or internal problem I suppose.
D.J. responded and I sent off original RCM for repair. I replaced the passenger front tire, so I can now safely test the car and actually drive it. Tire was worn to very little tread, but the real problem was the cracked sidewall on inside of tire. PO was driving it like that! But, I still have a BAS light on. At first it would go out by doing the reset, but only temporarily. Now it will not go out with the reset. The wheels needed cleaned and paint touched up, so while doing that I cleaned all the wheel sensors, to no avail. They looked pretty clean anyway. Drove the car, BAS on and the other symptom is the spoiler will not actuate at speed, nor will it retract when slowing. It does work fine with the dash button. No flashing light on spoiler button. It looks like my traction control switch does not actuate the dash light , no matter which way I move the switch?? Making progress, but this car is more neglected than the free one we were given 4 years ago. Of course it has less mileage as well. Any help would be appreciated. Oh, is the left front wheel speed sensor different looking than the other three sensor heads? It looks to me it has a magnet on it?
Last edited by Too many cars; Aug 30, 2024 at 03:46 PM.
Reason: spelling
D.J. responded and I sent off original RCM for repair. I replaced the passenger front tire, so I can now safely test the car and actually drive it. Tire was worn to very little tread, but the real problem was the cracked sidewall on inside of tire. PO was driving it like that! But, I still have a BAS light on. At first it would go out by doing the reset, but only temporarily. Now it will not go out with the reset. The wheels needed cleaned and paint touched up, so while doing that I cleaned all the wheel sensors, to no avail. They looked pretty clean anyway. Drove the car, BAS on and the other symptom is the spoiler will not actuate at speed, nor will it retract when slowing. It does work fine with the dash button. No flashing light on spoiler button. It looks like my traction control switch does not actuate the dash light , no matter which way I move the switch?? Making progress, but this car is more neglected than the free one we were given 4 years ago. Of course it has less mileage as well. Any help would be appreciated. Oh, is the left front wheel speed sensor different looking than the other three sensor heads? It looks to me it has a magnet on it?
If the rebuilt RCM doesn't solve these problems you should scan the car for codes. You can take it to any major autoparts place. They should scan it as a Mercedes SLK 320 if it doesn't read as a Crossfire.
Finally going to post a few pictures of the Crossfire refurbishment. Car after washing it, first day home. Bit of a different view of body damage. Has to be an engine bay picture. The good side! Taken today. Bit of a peek in the shop behind. This picture is out of context, taken the day of purchase. Taken today, most of the damage repaired, but need to remove bumper again to get a little tighter fit at seam with fender. And a little more paint work. And like the engine bay, need a rear end shot, taken today.
Obviously, I am not good at sizing pictures.
After loading the oversize pictures, I went out today to clean grounds and touch up paint chips. Well after completing that task, I realized the cigarette lighter was in the glove box. No fuse in the 31 location, so installed the fuse,. glove box light came on, installed the lighter and almost caused a fire. Fuse didn't blow quick enough. Chart said 15 amp. Anyway, how does that lighter socket come out of the dash/console area?
The Bas/Esp is still lit up on the dash. Checked fuses, cleaned grounds, as well as removing the battery disconnect installed by PO. The negative wire on the battery had a little corrosion, so I cleaned it along with the ground to chassis location. Looked good. Cleaned grounds, three, on driver inner fender and a single ground at driver frame rail, passenger side near front of engine. Did the light reset, nothing has changed. Any more ideas? And the spoiler works with dash switch but not automatically.
After loading the oversize pictures, I went out today to clean grounds and touch up paint chips. Well after completing that task, I realized the cigarette lighter was in the glove box. No fuse in the 31 location, so installed the fuse,. glove box light came on, installed the lighter and almost caused a fire. Fuse didn't blow quick enough. Chart said 15 amp. Anyway, how does that lighter socket come out of the dash/console area?
The Bas/Esp is still lit up on the dash. Checked fuses, cleaned grounds, as well as removing the battery disconnect installed by PO. The negative wire on the battery had a little corrosion, so I cleaned it along with the ground to chassis location. Looked good. Cleaned grounds, three, on driver inner fender and a single ground at driver frame rail, passenger side near front of engine. Did the light reset, nothing has changed. Any more ideas? And the spoiler works with dash switch but not automatically.
If everything was fine when you put the fuse back in position 31, then maybe your lighter element might have a short which caused it to over heat.
You might want to try something like a phone charger and see if that works. Then you know for show that it is the lighter itself.
As far as the warning lights, you will have to scan the car to find out what codes they are giving off. Then at least you will have a starting point.
Nice work on the car by the way.
Thanks for the input M60. It looks like the lighter problem is internal . The socket inner contacts/lighter holder appear to be bent up and contacting the case around it. I assume that creates a dead short. I have watched videos on getting the unit out of the dash, but nobody so far has shown how the lighter socket is then removed from it's location. If it is unrepairable, I'm thinking new ones will be hard to come by.
I think I will drive the car to an auto parts store and have the codes read. I have a newer Harbor freight reader but it doesn't get very far into Mercedes modules. I'm not real sure auto parts stores will get very far either. But, worth a try. Still more to do!
Thanks for the input M60. It looks like the lighter problem is internal . The socket inner contacts/lighter holder appear to be bent up and contacting the case around it. I assume that creates a dead short. I have watched videos on getting the unit out of the dash, but nobody so far has shown how the lighter socket is then removed from it's location. If it is unrepairable, I'm thinking new ones will be hard to come by.
This is what to do with the lighter socket. Replace it with a USB charger.
USB charger
I personally prefer to use one that displays voltage. There are plenty of different options on amazon. In my daily commuter I cut a hole right above the rear view mirror and have one installed there to supply power to my phone.
Thanks for the input M60. It looks like the lighter problem is internal . The socket inner contacts/lighter holder appear to be bent up and contacting the case around it. I assume that creates a dead short. I have watched videos on getting the unit out of the dash, but nobody so far has shown how the lighter socket is then removed from it's location. If it is unrepairable, I'm thinking new ones will be hard to come by.
I think I will drive the car to an auto parts store and have the codes read. I have a newer Harbor freight reader but it doesn't get very far into Mercedes modules. I'm not real sure auto parts stores will get very far either. But, worth a try. Still more to do!
Check out this video. It shows how to get to the cigarette lighter. It's around the 13:30 mark of the video.
They're a salvage yard, so they're not as gentle with the parts. But at least you can see what you're looking for and maybe you will see an easier way to get to it.
xintersecty, Your idea is not a bad one. I use the plug in versions of the voltmeter charger in our daily cars. Since I may need a new lighter socket if this one is not repairable, this could be an easier solution.
M60, I watched that very video among others and it take some serious maneuvering to get that ashtray/lighter section out to do work on it.
Does anyone have a preference in wheel speed sensors? Prices are all over the place and it appears most are made in China.
Thanks for the help.
Removed the headliner this past weekend and didn't break any plastic! But, that sticky mess left over from the adhesive and foam has been super difficult to remove. I used a plastic bristle brush to get the major sticky chunks off, then a wire brush to remove more, then two go overs with a putty knife scraper. Still had junk on there, so used shop rags doused in alcohol to get down to a fairly respectable surface. There are a few areas at the front near the windshield post that the adhesive just will not come off. .i did the headliner in our free Crossfire and do not remember having a difficult time getting the junk off. I am now going to consider it ready for the new headliner material that arrived today. Likely won't get to it until later in the week.
Also dyed the seats where the wear areas had occurred in the 68,000 miles. Turned out decent, but just like our other crossfire, it is a shade off the original color. I may have to dye the remaining sections of the seats if I can't stand the slight mismatch. The car was missing one of the plastic buttons that cover the nut holding the windshield wiper on. So for nearly $20, including shipping, the buttons arrived today as well. One for the wiper arm, one for a spare. That was the easiest fix so far!
New front wheel speed sensors should arrive in the next few days. I am hoping they will help with the BAS problem and maybe even the "no automatic spoiler deploy" problem. Or I could just be spitting into the wind!
Thanks for looking.
The second front speed sensor finally arrived today. Also was able to get the headliner card covered with light gray suede material. Same type i used to replace headliner in the free 04 we have. Only problem is, the seller folded the fabric and shipped it in a plastic bag which took over a week. Well, that foam gets creased and leaves lots of irregular lines and such on the fabric surface. So, had to steam the fabric twice and finally was able to get the headliner installed without any noticeable defects. Wasn't sure that was going to happen. Should get it installed in the car tomorrow. Speed speed sensors may have to wait a bit since fall is arriving early and the rental house needs the deck restained/painted. Will try to post a picture or two of the headliner, soon. Thanks for checking in.
I installed the driver front wheel speed sensor tonight. Took the car for a quick ride and after doing a reset, the light will stay out for about 20/30 seconds and then illuminates. Guess that is progress since it was on continuously even after a steering wheel reset before changing the sensor.. Spoiler did not seem to react to the new sensor either, since it did not work automatically. Hope to change the passenger front tomorrow. We will see if there is any further improvements. Have not had the codes read, Guess that should be the next step. My reader won't scan the secondary modules.
I installed the driver front wheel speed sensor tonight. Took the car for a quick ride and after doing a reset, the light will stay out for about 20/30 seconds and then illuminates. Guess that is progress since it was on continuously even after a steering wheel reset before changing the sensor.. Spoiler did not seem to react to the new sensor either, since it did not work automatically. Hope to change the passenger front tomorrow. We will see if there is any further improvements. Have not had the codes read, Guess that should be the next step. My reader won't scan the secondary modules.
Maybe you can take it to an independent Mercedes repair shop and have them scan it for you.
I installed the right front wheel speed sensor today. No improvement in the Bas light. Some had suggested pulling fuse 2 inside the car to clean any oxidation. Did that, no improvement. So other said pull the wiring plug on the ABS module and clean that. I did. No improvement. I am awaiting a new brake light switch to see if that helps. Brake lights do work, but some say it still can be a problem. Ordered rear wheel sensors. Once the brake switch and rear sensors are replaced, I will be out of ideas, at least until I get the codes read. Or might be best to buy a code reader that works with these orphan cars.
No Mercedes friendly shops anywhere near me that I know of so might be a good idea to have my own code reader..
I bought a youcanic scanner last year when they went on sale black friday. It's OK. It does not pick up the weirdness with the mercedes and chrylser combo. So I have scan it manually. I think the best bet is to build you windows 7 virtual box DRB III scanner
I installed a new brake light switch tonight. No change in BAS light or spoiler automatic deployment situation. The old switch was still working the brake lights correctly. Two rear wheel speed sensors due this week. After that, guess I need a new scanner that will penetrate the Mercedes computer systems modules. And the five minute fix to replace a brake light switch took about 45 minutes or more, on my back with little room to work. Wiring plugs were the toughest part to get them removed. Might go quicker on the second time.
I received the right rear wheel speed sensor yesterday and installed it today. Now if i do steering wheel reset, the light will stay off for 20/30 seconds. Spoiler does not work automatically. So while I was out testing the car, the left rear wheel sensor arrived, so I will install it tomorrow. I think i already know what the results will be.
On the way is a new code reader. Many say it will work on Mercedes and even Crossfire. we will see. It could help me with my 03 Mini as well since it has an SRS light on which the Fancy Harbor Freight unit won't read either. 2024 LAUNCH Creader VII+2.0 CRP123 V2.0 With a name that long, it must be fantastic.
The results I expected with installation of left rear wheel speed sensor were as expected. Now after a reset, I might get 15 seconds of BAS light out. New code reader should be here tuesday. Lets see if that is any help. Thanks for looking.