So I just did my first oil change on my crossfire, Mobile 1 0-40 full synthetic and a K&N filter. Three questions arose:
1) the oil plug according to google should have been a 14mm, mine was a SAE 1/2 measured with a caliper to be sure. Is this normal?
2) the Oil filter went on to the "rod" on the underside of the oil filter cap without issue in what I would call a notably snug fit. I leaks after running the car for 5 minutes post oil change, but only after all of that did I notice 3 gaskets in the K&N box, and I did not see any "old gaskets" for these to replace? Do such gaskets exist on our crossfires? my All data DIY procedure did not mention any gaskets on the oil filter. So I am confused here.
3) When I undid the drain plug it was TIGHT so tight I banged by elbow on the sway bar. As I dont have a metric torque wrench yet I put the plug back in good n tight but given the seemingly excessive torque to remove it I am wondering if these cars have some oddball need to exact seemingly high torque on the oil plug.
4) I filled with 8.5 qts exactly per the manual's capacities chart, but when I checked the dip stick the oil level looked high, however I didn't have the overfill warning on the dash after the 5 min run, so I am not sure if the oil has to "settle" in this car. I did change the filter so 8.5 did seem to be the correct amount and I measured the oil with a oil measuring cup to ensure exactly 8.5 qts was dispensed,


Any knowledge would be appreciated.
Ned

 

You will find that most all of us will suggest to use a "Mann" brand filter. It is a fleece filter and not a paper filter (which WILL collapse and then not allow oil to flow).
The only parts you need to replace are the O-rings that come with the filter. They all go on the shaft. One of them will not be used.
The oil CAPACITY is 8.5 quarts. When oil drains from the car only about 8 quarts will drain out. So, therefore only put 8 quarts back in then check dip stick.

 

Here is my post about an oil change I just did on my car. There are plenty of pictures with descriptions.
The only thing different is that I used a vacuum pump instead of draining the oil.
Your oil drain plug should be metric, I don't know the size, and you should replace the copper crush washer that goes on the filter plug.

LINK Oil Change Part 1

LINK Oil Change Part 2

 

The crush washer, if replaced each oil change, should eliminate the need to torque so tight.

 

You do not need a metric torque wrench. the conversion to ft/lbs is plug 22/filter18.5.

The OE filter is Mann HU718/5x. They are inexpensive and come with all the o-rings.

I would remove excess oil. The light may not come on under casual driving but could under hard excelleration. When I bought my car, this was the case. It only had 3 miles since oil change so removed some before drive home.

 

You might try using the right oil next time, as well*. You are in the warm, sunny south. 5W40 is what MB suggests, they changed the recommendation from 0W40 to 5W40 in 2010, that sticker under the hood, and the car, are now 20 years old.

IF you drive the HELL out of the car, as I did with my second roadster, I would suggest 5W50 (I am talking about bouncing off the rev limiter, WOT coming out of curves, and keeping up with Gary [Valk], on the Dragon). I would not use 5W50 if the temperatures are below about 40 or 50 in the mornings, tho, it is surprisingly heavy stuff - an oil pressure gauge will guide you.

See MB's 229.3 spec for all the approved oils, 0W40 is still approved but no longer recommended.

As others have said, if you used a paper filter, plan on buying a new engine eventually**. They WILL and DO collapse, PERIOD. WHen I drove my SE home, it had less than 700 miles on the filter and oil, the filter had crushed and oil was flowing around it. No idea of any paper broke off and was in the lifters, so far, after ten years, the lifters sound fine. In 16 years and three cars, I have NEVER seen a fleece filter fail or crush.



*If this sounds insulting, GOOD. We tend to remember insults, but not advice. So think of my post as one long insult, not advice.
** Again, meant to be insulting.

 

nedj10 ~~ "1) the oil plug according to google should have been a 14mm, mine was a SAE 1/2 measured with a caliper to be sure. Is this normal?"

No this is not normal. The factory plug will take a 13mm socket to unscrew, and the original plug is torqued to 30 nm = 22 ft lbs. If you actually have a 1/2' SAE plug then someone has probably over torqued the plug and stripped the original threads. They then either forced a half inch bolt into the hole or they installed a heli-coil thread replacement. There should be a crush washer under the head of the drain plug. Not having seen your car and exactly what is going on with that drain plug I suggest if your plug is not leaking you seriously consider changing your oil from the top; Put a vacuum tube down the dipstick tube and suction the oil up and out of the engine. I use a mytivac, but there are other devices that can be used. I checked the first time I replaced oil with the mityvac and there remained in the oil pan only about one tablespoon of oil in the pan. Changing oil from the top will prevent any further damage to the plug and or the threaded hole. If it has been heli-coild you probably are okay.

Here is a link to where the o-rings are placed. See picture at post #3 AND do not try to force the stock/stem of the plastic apart. It probably will not separate so just replace four not all five: o-rings

The torque for the oil filter black plastic top is imprinted on the cap.

In the future before diving into maintenance or repair on your Crossfire check the forum first.

 

I believe the oil drain plug should use a 13mm wrench. FYI 13mm x .03937"/mm = .5118"