Dead throttle pedal
Hello to all. I've been lurking on the site since October 2022 when I purchased my 2006 aero blue limited 6-speed with 132k miles. It now has 139k miles and any problems I've had have been solved by using the Google/Crossfire method and reading members posts, almost on a daily basis. Haven't found an answer to this one though. The car is kept in dry storage and I bring it out on average every other week, to tool around town or short trips. The other day I went out and started it as usual. Cranked right up, idled at normal rpm, ran smooth with no miss or stutter. Put it in gear and when I gave it some gas, there was no change in rpm. Pedal goes straight to the floor with no changes to the engine speed. Was able to pull it out into the daylight with only idle speed. Checked all the fuses, swapped out the spare RCM, still no gas pedal. Today I took out the MAFS as a starting point and went to all the local parts stores looking for a Bosch replacement. No Bosch was found. I'm guessing Rob will have one unless somebody steers me to another supplier. My thought on starting there, I wasn't sure if the Throttle Response Sensor is tied into that or not. Please advise. I'm hoping someone else has had this problem and has a definitive answer on what to replace. I really don't want to make make more than one trip under the dash to replace the Pedal Response Sensor. My old body is still able, buy not as willing as it was three years ago.
Small tech tip-The MAFS is held on to the main body by two no-tamper screws. I used two small watchmakers flat screwdrivers in the star portion of the screw head and then used a small cresent wrench to turn them. After a good full turn, I used plyers on the screw head the rest of the way. You almost need three hands to maneuver the combination but patience will get you there. Before I put the screws back in I will grind a slot in the head with my Dremel.
Thanks,
Terry W
Small tech tip-The MAFS is held on to the main body by two no-tamper screws. I used two small watchmakers flat screwdrivers in the star portion of the screw head and then used a small cresent wrench to turn them. After a good full turn, I used plyers on the screw head the rest of the way. You almost need three hands to maneuver the combination but patience will get you there. Before I put the screws back in I will grind a slot in the head with my Dremel.
Thanks,
Terry W
Last edited by OTW; Oct 8, 2025 at 06:04 PM. Reason: Added explanation
Hello to all. I've been lurking on the site since October 2022 when I purchased my 2006 aero blue limited 6-speed with 132k miles. It now has 139k miles and any problems I've had have been solved by using the Google/Crossfire method and reading members posts, almost on a daily basis. Haven't found an answer to this one though. The car is kept in dry storage and I bring it out on average every other week, to tool around town or short trips. The other day I went out and started it as usual. Cranked right up, idled at normal rpm, ran smooth with no miss or stutter. Put it in gear and when I gave it some gas, there was no change in rpm. Pedal goes straight to the floor with no changes to the engine speed. Was able to pull it out into the daylight with only idle speed. Checked all the fuses, swapped out the spare RCM, still no gas pedal. Today I took out the MAFS as a starting point and went to all the local parts stores looking for a Bosch replacement. No Bosch was found. I'm guessing Rob will have one unless somebody steers me to another supplier. My thought on starting there, I wasn't sure if the Throttle Response Sensor is tied into that or not. Please advise. I'm hoping someone else has had this problem and has a definitive answer on what to replace. I really don't want to make make more than one trip under the dash to replace the Pedal Response Sensor. My old body is still able, buy not as willing as it was three years ago.
Small tech tip-The MAFS is held on to the main body by two no-tamper screws. I used two small watchmakers flat screwdrivers in the star portion of the screw head and then used a small cresent wrench to turn them. After a good full turn, I used plyers on the screw head the rest of the way. You almost need three hands to maneuver the combination but patience will get you there. Before I put the screws back in I will grind a slot in the head with my Dremel.
Thanks,
Terry W
Small tech tip-The MAFS is held on to the main body by two no-tamper screws. I used two small watchmakers flat screwdrivers in the star portion of the screw head and then used a small cresent wrench to turn them. After a good full turn, I used plyers on the screw head the rest of the way. You almost need three hands to maneuver the combination but patience will get you there. Before I put the screws back in I will grind a slot in the head with my Dremel.
Thanks,
Terry W
One thing I would like you to try (actually it is two things). Have you taken the NEG cable off for about 3 minutes with the light switch turned on? If not, do this, and after turning of the light switch and replacing the NEG cable then #2, do a throttle body reset. The TB reset is listed in the help files (if you've been here a while you know where the document collection is right?). I also have never heard of this fault so my suggestion is a quick guess that MIGHT reset the car computers. Only 3000 miles in three years, and I thought I drove mine too little... Good luck! 
.
It sounds like either the connection to the throttle pedal is disconnected or the pedal assembly is bad.
Needswings has a good price for them:
LINK - Needswings gas pedal
Needswings has a good price for them:
LINK - Needswings gas pedal
Well, the good news is, I discovered the cause of the problem. The bad news is, It's going to take a while to fix. As I was going through the the rigmarole of resetting the throttle sensor, I could hear an intermittent sound that sounded just like the faint sound of static coming from a radio speaker, The sound happened only when the key was in the on position without the engine running. The sound was coming from behind the glove box. Anybody see where this is going? Yep, there's been a mouse in the Chrysler house. After pulling the carpet back from the footwell I found a small nest. The mouse was nice enough to leave small pieces of yellow, green, and red wire-all were about three inches long. On the firewall, behind the glove box, there are two large bundles of wire running from left to right. That's where I found the matching loose ends.
My plan of attack is to take the passenger seat out and put a thick blanket on the floor. I'll probably be there for a few days checking all the wires in the bundle. Meanwhile traps have been baited and set. Battery is disconnected.
My plan of attack is to take the passenger seat out and put a thick blanket on the floor. I'll probably be there for a few days checking all the wires in the bundle. Meanwhile traps have been baited and set. Battery is disconnected.
Well, the good news is, I discovered the cause of the problem. The bad news is, It's going to take a while to fix. As I was going through the the rigmarole of resetting the throttle sensor, I could hear an intermittent sound that sounded just like the faint sound of static coming from a radio speaker, The sound happened only when the key was in the on position without the engine running. The sound was coming from behind the glove box. Anybody see where this is going? Yep, there's been a mouse in the Chrysler house. After pulling the carpet back from the footwell I found a small nest. The mouse was nice enough to leave small pieces of yellow, green, and red wire-all were about three inches long. On the firewall, behind the glove box, there are two large bundles of wire running from left to right. That's where I found the matching loose ends.
My plan of attack is to take the passenger seat out and put a thick blanket on the floor. I'll probably be there for a few days checking all the wires in the bundle. Meanwhile traps have been baited and set. Battery is disconnected.
My plan of attack is to take the passenger seat out and put a thick blanket on the floor. I'll probably be there for a few days checking all the wires in the bundle. Meanwhile traps have been baited and set. Battery is disconnected.
As for the mice... "Terminate with extreme prejudice" - Apocalypse Now.
.
Hello to all. I've been lurking on the site since October 2022 when I purchased my 2006 aero blue limited 6-speed with 132k miles. It now has 139k miles and any problems I've had have been solved by using the Google/Crossfire method and reading members posts, almost on a daily basis. Haven't found an answer to this one though. The car is kept in dry storage and I bring it out on average every other week, to tool around town or short trips. The other day I went out and started it as usual. Cranked right up, idled at normal rpm, ran smooth with no miss or stutter. Put it in gear and when I gave it some gas, there was no change in rpm. Pedal goes straight to the floor with no changes to the engine speed. Was able to pull it out into the daylight with only idle speed. Checked all the fuses, swapped out the spare RCM, still no gas pedal. Today I took out the MAFS as a starting point and went to all the local parts stores looking for a Bosch replacement. No Bosch was found. I'm guessing Rob will have one unless somebody steers me to another supplier. My thought on starting there, I wasn't sure if the Throttle Response Sensor is tied into that or not. Please advise. I'm hoping someone else has had this problem and has a definitive answer on what to replace. I really don't want to make make more than one trip under the dash to replace the Pedal Response Sensor. My old body is still able, buy not as willing as it was three years ago.
Small tech tip-The MAFS is held on to the main body by two no-tamper screws. I used two small watchmakers flat screwdrivers in the star portion of the screw head and then used a small cresent wrench to turn them. After a good full turn, I used plyers on the screw head the rest of the way. You almost need three hands to maneuver the combination but patience will get you there. Before I put the screws back in I will grind a slot in the head with my Dremel.
Thanks,
Terry W
Small tech tip-The MAFS is held on to the main body by two no-tamper screws. I used two small watchmakers flat screwdrivers in the star portion of the screw head and then used a small cresent wrench to turn them. After a good full turn, I used plyers on the screw head the rest of the way. You almost need three hands to maneuver the combination but patience will get you there. Before I put the screws back in I will grind a slot in the head with my Dremel.
Thanks,
Terry W
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